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Not to be slowed (Har har) I've picked up some more sidemarkers, this time from Unity performance in Canada.

Much better fitment than the Ebay items (Which, On investigation, seem to be Optix / clones of Optix units, which are quite popular in the US.) - They fit better than the OEM ones too! There's now no wobble in the units at all, which I was getting with the OEM units.

They're not as bright as the bulbs, or the Ebay markers, but the diffusion of the light and the clear outline makes them look far better.
View attachment 311681

View attachment 311682 View attachment 311683
They look really good!

Going to order some I think. Did you get smoked or clear?

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Premium Member
2,342 Posts
Discussion Starter #44
Still going!

I've put the OSRAM T10 4000K LEDs into the interior; Looking much brighter now! Notably, they work quite well with the automatic dimming after the doors have been closed.


(Taken dead on sunset, so the after picture has a fair bit less natural light, hence the shadow!)

Further to that, I've also popped some Bosch Aerotwin wipers on - There was a little bit of judder from the factory ones, and they are getting on for a year old now. I prefer the spoiler design on the OEM wiper, so I think I'll look for some silicone blade replacements to pop in.

I've also grabbed a nextbase 522GW, so some hardwiring to do!

Premium Member
2,342 Posts
Discussion Starter #47

Keeping up the pace! There's been a few more changes since my last post...

Sorting out the supertones

I was thinking that the supertone set I had may have had a faulty low tone horn given the high pitch; I did some investigation and it turned out I had a bad horn adapter - Now changed and sounding even louder (And more manly!)

Acuity shifter installation
Couldn't keep it standard for too long!

Despite the excellent standard shift, having used the Acuity parts on my 9G, I couldn't go without trying the short shifter for the 10G:- I'm not disappointed!

It's highly adjustable, from super short, very hard shifts to changes that are even longer and softer than standard. I've opted to set mine up for a shift that has just a slightly shorter throw than standard, so it's easy to use day to day whilst still delivering a much faster change thanks not only to the throw reduction, but also to the reduced compliance (This is far more rigid than the original shifter!) and improved feel.

It's not the easiest install for someone that hasn't done similar before, as it requires taking the centre console out:- It took me a little longer as I also went through with a fine tooth comb adding felt tape to any contact points, which yields a small improvement to cabin noise.

A before and after of the shifter assembly...

Not shown in the picture, I've also switched over to my old Skunk2 Weighted shift knob - It makes a surprising difference to feel!
For anyone considering it, I've found the OEM locking nut is a reasonably good fit for the bottom of the Skunk2 - So it all looks fine:- There may be an alcantara gear gaiter in future though!

As mentioned above, whilst I was there, I took some time to prevent any vibrations:-
Of particular note, I found the small LEDs used to illuminate the under-dash area and phone cubby were a fairly loose fit - Wrapping these in felt tape reduced vibration a great deal.

Just wrap, and pop back into place!

Battery Tender

As the battery is fairly small on these, and my car spends most of the working week on the driveway / making shorter journeys (As well as my thirst for all things electrical), I've also installed a battery tender to make it easier to plug in and charge.


A nice quick install; It grounds to the fuse-box mounting bolt (If you're doing this, don't ground directly to the negative terminal of the battery or the vehicle won't detect the charge correctly for stop / start purposes), and the positive can be added directly behind the locking nut on the positive terminal.

As you can see, I've added a cable tidy to prevent the wire from lashing around as well as plenty of fabric tape:- Other than that, it feeds directly into a small channel and tucks away neatly in the scuttle - Completely invisible from the outside unless you go rooting around in the scuttle!

Adding red bits

Inspired by my other LED swaps, I thought I'd do something for the glove compartment. Thanks to a spare bag of red T10 LEDs, I thought I'd go for red!

A nice bright improvement over the original halogen, and won't impact nightvision when rustling through the glovebox on a long night drive :)

Premium Member
2,342 Posts
Discussion Starter #48
I've had some time to get a few more bits done! (You can guess why :D )

I've been looking at the audio upgrades in the "FK8 Product Reviews Group" On Facebook, where most of the speakers were replaced with JL Audio C2 series speakers - as well as some changes to the Subwoofer, which we don't get in the EU!

I've mostly stuck to their guides, but I've wound back some of the sound deadening slightly (It's a racecar, not a concert hall!)

Center speaker install
Forgot to get pictures of this one! - Only takes 5 minutes; Using a JL Audio C2-350 Speaker. I used some offcuts from one of the Fastrings to create a bit of a cup around the speaker, and to create a small foam holder for the Metra harness, which prevents any rattling.

Door speaker install
Fairly straightforward - Using a Metra harness, some fastrings and a Connect2 adapter plate to fit. There was some play in the adapter plate at the bottom, so I added some fabric tape wrapped round to take up any slack and prevent vibration noises.


I broke with the other guide here, and substituted JL C1-650X Speakers for the C2; They're far cheaper and have very similar characteristics in terms of frequency response - Just a lower total power, which considering we're using the factory HU / Amp isn't a problem.

Sound deadening
I've used just under a single pack of 4mm Vibrodamping material to do all four doors (Inner door card only) and a little extra in the boot - Only ~3.5Kg of extra weight, but a noticeable improvement in "tap" testing, the door cards especially have substantially improved - They feel much more solid.

To keep the weight / material use down, I was somewhat strategic in just targeting larger open areas with lots of vibration. Furthermore, I didn't overlap factory damping material or do the outer door skins - This was also to save interfering with the standard vapour barrier.



As in the guide, I did make time to add some deading to the tweeter sails - I also popped the tweeters out to add some Tessa tape which will hopefully cure the high frequency vibration they sometimes make.

As above, I'm sure there would be a substantial improvement in vibration if I were to deaden the door panels themselves, but I'll see how things go once I've had a chance to drive around with this setup.

Whilst I haven't been for a drive with the system yet, I did listen to some test tracks in the driveway and I'm very impressed:- The mids and highs are very clear, and there's a touch more bass, which is all well tied together - Listening to a number of test tracks, I can hear every instrument even in cases where there is a heavy bass undernote.

For the speaker hardware and deadening material,
£125.90 - 4X JL C1-650X Speakers. (Door Speakers)
£75.99 - 2x JL C2-350X Spekers (Center dash speaker; You have one left over, so you can sell on to someone else interested in upgrading!)
£29.99 - Silent Coat Extra 4mm Mat Door Pack
£13.08 - Loads of Metra connectors (More than needed!)
All in, Under £250 for a full speaker replacement!

I'm curently looking into options to reuse my Kenwood underseat sub, so watch this space!

Premium Member
2,342 Posts
Discussion Starter #49

More ado - Plenty of time at the moment!

I've done a bit of dressup, some more rattle fixing (Cabin is getting more serene by the day!) as well as my first bit of underbonnet tinkering.. Not to mention lots of cutting, polishing and waxing!

JL Audio Tweeters
Thought I'd give the audio a finishing touch by adding the JL audio tweeters in the front; Not only to improve the sound quality but also give a hint to the upgrade, with some nice tasteful JL logos on the tweeter grilles. - They also rattle less than the OEM tweeters!

Door Sills
Another slight dressup modification - These are from Alanos on Ebay; They're a nice finishing touch.

Acuity Shifter Bushings
Putting the finishing touches on the shifter upgrades!

It was about a week after I installed these before I got the opportunity to drive, and whilst going I was wondering why the gearchanges were feeling better than usual - Then realised I'd fitted the bushings - Something of an endorsement of their effect!

Door Protection Vinyls
A China special - Not so much for looks, as to provide a little kick-proofing for the door trims as they're prone to get caught by feet on the way out - Though they turned out quite well, as faux-carbon goes! (You can get a glimpse in the door sill picture)

PRL Intake
A nice first engine modification - I don't plan to go much further than this - Just exhaust, Silicone hoses, Turbo blanket and at most an intercooler - No rod-rending hybrid turbos here!

The PRL is the only intake promising performance over the stock of ~10WHP, and in the brief trips I've been able to make, I'd say they're not lying - Mid range feels ever so slightly more linear and powerful, which would agree with their dyno charts. Nothing earth shattering, but just noticable - Certainly evidence of a well tuned intake.

Install wasn't too bad; Once again, well developed - It fits very solidly on the OEM mounts / Area, using the original bushings too. The silicone intake pipe replacement is a little more challenging, as there is a snaphead hose clamp in use which took some agressive pliering to remove; There's also a spot where the evap purge is just about in contact with a hard line from the EGR Connector, but I sorted this out by correcting the rotation of the mounts and adding some Tesa tape to prevent any damage due to contact - Watching with the engine running, there's no rubbing taking place so all is well!

Despite it's enclosed nature, It's very sonorous, too! - Lovely recirc sounds and a nice engine note.

It looks the part, too - Nothing too wild; fits in with the rest of the engine bay quite nicely.

Not too loud in this one - Certainly louder in person.

Sounds are a bit more noticeable in this one!

Unfortunately, I don't seem to have taken a picture under the bonnet!

Premium Member
2,342 Posts
Discussion Starter #50
About time to pop in an update here; I've been cheating on you with TRO :p

Starting with a little gallery from the past few months...



For anyone interested in the engine bay look with the PRL, Here's a little video with some sounds too:

And onto the changes since the last episode :p

Team Heko Wind Deflectors
I quite liked the wind deflectors on my previous car; They're quite useful for country roads - allowing you to keep the window down and hear / smell / enjoy without the buffeting of wind - They're also quite handy if you're camping in the car overnight and want ventilation without rain getting in!

Whilst I considered the OEM / Mugen offerings, at upwards of £200 for bits of plastic, they seemed rather steep - Went cheap and cheerful instead! :p - Joking aside, they seem fine enough as with my previous car - They deflect wind, and don't cost £200 so a win I'd say!

Tyres - Michelin PS4S 255/35/20

I've gone from the factory continentals to Michelin PS4s in 255/35/20 Size - Slightly wider, and higher profile. - A nice improvement over the OE CSC6 Tyres, I must say!

  • They cure wheel hop in wet / damp conditions
  • The speedo is now much closer to the true GPS speed; Within 1 - 2mph for all speeds (If not completely exact!)
  • Since fitting, there's been no more pothole damage - You can place the car with far more confidence without having to worry about a pothole costing you £700!
  • Comfort is improved; Secondary ride is much smoother an small imperfections ironed out nicely. There's no adverse effect on primary ride / body control.
  • Personally, I'd say they look better too!
They grip just as well as the factory continentals, in fact, the rear feels noticably more secure - They're not as prone to lift of oversteer as the Contis, which whilst a little boring, does keep the pace up a little.

I've had them on for more than 6000 miles now, so they're outlasting the contis by a big margin too! - They've still got ~5mm tread, even on the fronts.

Bluespark Tuning Box
Can't really go wrong with more power! recently fitted; Very happy - Overtakes are even quicker, and the turbo spools much more responsively and smoothly.

I was initially a little concerned about upsetting the factory power balance / torque curve, but I'm quite happy with the way the map preserves the original revvy character and doesn't just dump in oodles of midrange torque that makes the end of the gears boring.

Only one problem, It has got me a little hooked on more power :LOL: - In due course I'd like to look at a sports cat to further improve spool and unlock a few extra HP.

PMC Carbon Fibre Vent Garnishes
Given I already have the rest of the exterior carbon package, I couldn't just leave plain black plastic on show on the side of the car! - Picked these up from Razi when he sold his FK8; They are a nice finishing touch for the side of the car - Not that it wasn't already lary enough!


(Don't seem to have a picture of them specifically, but this shows them and the new tyre size quite nicely!)

KolourKoncept Alcantara Gear Gaiter
I did have a red "Alcantara" gaiter from an Ebay seller, but I wasn't very pleased with the quality in the end:- So I spoke to KolourKoncept who'd made the gaiter for my previous Civic; Very pleased with the outcome too! - Lovely high quality and a perfect match for the rest of the interior Alcantara :D - Half the price of the Dream one too!


Obscenely Bright Reversing LEDs
Grabbed some of the "Headlight style" reversing LEDs from TypeRLeds in America, and wow! - They're brighter than most people's headlights - I'm very impressed and would absolutely reccomend them to anyone with a Civic - They're bright enough for you to see what you're doing, and they even make the reversing camera totally usable on the darkest of nights, in the darkest of places.

They're quite literally dazzling! - Expensive, but totally worth it.

Mann Cabin Filter
Something to keep the Corona out of the cabin! :LOL:

As the original was looking a little dirty, and it was only cheap, I've fitted an upgrade Mann cabin air filter - Much thicker than the OE filter, and with activated charcoal and biocidal treatment - Actually quite a worthwhile investment IMO, as it seems to make the car smell cleaner alongside the Rituals airfreshener - It may just be me, but I've also noticed it seems to do an excellent job of keeping external smells out of the car - Since fitting, I've not noticed nearly as many / any honking decat-diesels, and I've never noticed any permeating bad smells when driving around (Pig farms, sewage works etc) - Not sure if it's a coincidence, but I'd say it seems to be working!

Rattles Rattles Rattles :mad:
I've also dealt with a massive number of rattles and rattly-bits throughout the front of the cabin; Wiring, trim panels, etc - I think I'm finally there, though! - I'll pop up a seperate thread with some of the rattle fixes I've used in due course...

Premium Member
397 Posts
Be good to hear about your rattle cures, I have been pretty lucky with mine however I have one little annoying devil I can't get to the bottom of :mad:. Just wondering if the rattles are more prevalent on the Type R due to its stiffer suspension 🤔 just a thought.

Premium Member
2,342 Posts
Discussion Starter #52
There is actually less sound deadening on the CTR! - The K20 also requires stiffer engine mounts (Than the standard 1 / 1.5L) and produces more vibration, so there are a few factors.

Any description of the rattle your having / where it sounds like it is coming from?

723 Posts
Looking good you will have to take it for a dyno ,be careful with sports cat make sure it meets the mot emissions standards maybe look at a perf back box or cat back system bastuck do a good one

Premium Member
2,342 Posts
Discussion Starter #54
Looking good you will have to take it for a dyno ,be careful with sports cat make sure it meets the mot emissions standards maybe look at a perf back box or cat back system bastuck do a good one
Was looking at the PRL sports cat offering:- Seems to be fairly popular in the US; I've no interest in going full decat - It seems a little obnoxious to me as everyone has to breathe the fumes!

I have grabbed a second OEM exhaust, which I'm thinking of getting modified - Hopefully a cutout valve before the resonators just to be lary on the rare occasion; I'm fairly happy with the tone and volume of the standard exhaust as it is TBH - Similarly to the cat, I don't want to be wildly obnoxious (all the time :p)

Premium Member
397 Posts
It seems to come from the middle vents bust after some research it could actually be coming from lower down in the dash near the heater matrix

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2,342 Posts
Discussion Starter #56
It seems to come from the middle vents bust after some research it could actually be coming from lower down in the dash near the heater matrix

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Just popped a thread up - I think it'll either be the first one, the center console intermittent, or possibly the wire tapping HVAC.

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Premium Member
2,342 Posts
Discussion Starter #58
I've done a few bits the last couple of days - Today rotated the tyres, cleaned the suspension / arches, and applied ACF-50 to prevent any corrosion over winter - Did the underside of the engine bay too!

Also completed a full brake & Clutch bleed using Motul RBF600:- Whilst the fluid in the master cylinder was looking awful, the fluid in the lines actually seemed to be fairly clear - Either way, all fresh now!

I've got rear brake pads ready to go on in a little while; I'm just going to wait for the current ones to die completely - As I've got them to hand I'll change them over when they get to the squealers.

Also had some custom alcantara wrapping.....

There's another part (Hint in pictures :p ) That I've had done, but haven't had any good light to take pictures yet.
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