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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone know if these fit the FK3 (??) 2.2 diesel 5-door or are they specific only to the FN2 Type R?

Thanks,
Al.
 

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The clutch lines fir across the range .


Make sure you get the longer one that removes the dampener
 

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The lines themselves no but removing the dampener on a stiff clutch has benefits
 

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Discussion Starter #10
what is the reason for it`s existence?
what are the pro`s and con`s for removing the damper?
Original thinking was to reinforce the clutch line, in view of the increase in pressure.
I don't find it 'stiff', just the pedal pressure has increased.
If its not worth it then fair enough - it may simply transfer yet more load onto the master cylinder.

Now my ignorance has me curious - what is this damper please?
Al.
 

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Original thinking was to reinforce the clutch line, in view of the increase in pressure.
I don't find it 'stiff', just the pedal pressure has increased.
If its not worth it then fair enough - it may simply transfer yet more load onto the master cylinder.

Now my ignorance has me curious - what is this damper please?
Al.

I'd wait until your devil clutch is fully bedded in before making any decisions. Should ease up a bit once it's all settled down.

How's your throttle pick up and deceleration with the lighter SMF ?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'd wait until your devil clutch is fully bedded in before making any decisions. Should ease up a bit once it's all settled down.

How's your throttle pick up and deceleration with the lighter SMF ?
I didn't expect there to be much difference.
Pedal pressure's heavier - as stated - but action and 'bite' are smooth - probably smoother than before.

Pick-up and deceleration - care here. I'm being gentle for now.
Pick-up seems faster than I'd expected in view of the relatively small difference - somebody mentioned could be that the DMF springs were so stuffed.
Trailing / Gentle throttle on / around 1,000 appear to need to be avoided - can feel more instability here than before, but no issue.
1,300 going up response - seems 'much faster', read as must be something.
General engine response seems 'more petrol' now.
VERY early days, so I'm just forming opinions.

Overall - excellent. Much better.
I'm obviously not 'the only one' and have been careful, and its low mileage and fully serviced - everything should point to 'nothing will go wrong' - I just want to avoid all and not have been the reason for creating a problem that wouldn't have ...

Al.
 

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Removing the dampener has the following benefits:-

- More direct clutch feel.
- Less effort required to activate clutch.
- Easier to bleed.
- Little bit lighter.

The disadvantage is that the dampener is there to absorb most minor judders, so they aren't felt through to the pedal. So if you're clutch judders slightly, it will be felt after the dampener is removed. It also changes the feel of the pedal, so if you like the OEM feel, it's not going to be the same ;)

When I removed it on my old 200sx, it almost made it feel like I'd changed the clutch system with a cable drive because it was so direct. Although it was lighter than any of the cable drive clutches I'd used... ;)

It's one of those mods that not many people do since it doesn't really make much of a difference to them. The people with track cars tend to do it...
 

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I didn't expect there to be much difference.
Pedal pressure's heavier - as stated - but action and 'bite' are smooth - probably smoother than before.

Pick-up and deceleration - care here. I'm being gentle for now.
Pick-up seems faster than I'd expected in view of the relatively small difference - somebody mentioned could be that the DMF springs were so stuffed.
Trailing / Gentle throttle on / around 1,000 appear to need to be avoided - can feel more instability here than before, but no issue.
1,300 going up response - seems 'much faster', read as must be something.
General engine response seems 'more petrol' now.
VERY early days, so I'm just forming opinions.

Overall - excellent. Much better.
I'm obviously not 'the only one' and have been careful, and its low mileage and fully serviced - everything should point to 'nothing will go wrong' - I just want to avoid all and not have been the reason for creating a problem that wouldn't have ...

Al.
:thumbsup:
 

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Trailing / Gentle throttle on / around 1,000 appear to need to be avoided - can feel more instability here than before, but no issue.
Can you elaborate?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I'm aware of this!!
I'm talking of gentle, level '4-6 green blob' cruising.
I'll generally 'drive by blobs', and feel.
Steady on the level, or down hill, I'll allow feathered / trailing throttle down to ~1,200.
'2 blob work - green side' I'll go for 1,400-1,500, particularly if I need to pull away.
You get the picture - I understand.
A road (not race) car should permit easy cruising not just revving the guts out of an engine, but totally agreed, never labour it either!!
Al.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Back to the recent mid-thread topic, has anyone got a pictorial representation of the clutch damper, and where its installed in the Mk 8, and also of how / where to remove / block / bypass?

Has anyone done this?
a) With the standard clutch installation - effects, if any?
b) With a modified, higher clamp pressure clutch - effects, if any?

One thread I found mentioned the opposite, that it INcreased pressure - which we don't need. It's obviously somebody's opinion and could have been wrong.

Al.
 

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In below the air box

The stock set up is a couple of copper solid lines and a couple of flexis. I think HEL replace the flexible lines, this isn't ideal as it still keeps joins etc in the system -weak points and the dampener .

when we done it we measured a length of run for 1 hose removing the dampener etc totally and binned all the solid lines.

Any body that can crimp brake lines can do this


You want1 solid line from the master to the slave
 
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