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Discussion Starter #1
So yesterday I finally hardwired the dash cam. I tapped into fuse 24 and 37, the latter was an empty slot.
The day before I checked the health of the Yuasa battery and I could see it being all green. I left the dash cam unplugged from the power overnight.

Today after an hour drive looked at the battery health could see the colour through the glass hole has turned 99% black.

Is the hardwiring causing a battery drain even without the cam plugged in over my night?
Is there another way to test this?

Any advice appreciated, thanks.


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Very unlikely, but what's at the other end of the cables if the dashcam is unplugged?
Test by putting an ammeter in series with the wires (one at a time).
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The other is the fuse taps which remained slotted in.

The only difference in the installation is that one of 2am fuse blew/snapped as I was trying to plug into the piggyback wire. In replacement I plugged in a 10amp fuse.

I have ordered 2amp fuse from eBay.



The test you mentioned, don't fully understand. How should I do this. Please explain in simple terms.
 

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I'm with Das on that one. I was talking about the opposite end of the wires to the end to which the fuse taps are connected.
You haven't mentioned the dashcam make or that of the hardwire kit.

Also, did the fuse blow, or did it snap?
 

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which dash cam did you buy
I have nextbase front and rear and that's fine
but there are some that do use power from the car to record if its triggered

but if you have used a spare fuse in fuse box its probably a switched fuse which wont drain battery
the black vue ones record if it detects someone passing by but they plug into diagnostic socket for power
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm with Das on that one. I was talking about the opposite end of the wires to the end to which the fuse taps are connected.
You haven't mentioned the dashcam make or that of the hardwire kit.

Also, did the fuse blow, or did it snap?
I installed the Kenwood DRV-430.

The fuse snapped as i tried to plug it into the piggyback cable, fuse did not blow during operationall.

Here is the more details and install guide of the cam.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
which dash cam did you buy
I have nextbase front and rear and that's fine
but there are some that do use power from the car to record if its triggered

but if you have used a spare fuse in fuse box its probably a switched fuse which wont drain battery
the black vue ones record if it detects someone passing by but they plug into diagnostic socket for power
Installed the Kenwood DRV-430.

Yes I used the spare slot in the fuse box, slot 37 as the accessory connection so power when keys in accessory.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Im anxious about the drain as I need the car during the bank holiday weeknd.
I just had another peak at the health indicator on the batter I still can see small amout of green but not as much as two days ago.

I am thinking I should pull out the fuse tap cable and put back the original fuse (not use the dash cam) till the 2amp fuse I ordered arrives.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yeh I get you. But what would trigger the health of the battery go poor?

The last time this happened was last month where the BT module became faulty cause the car not to start. After disconnecting BT module, the battery health shot to green.

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If the camera is not plugged into the hardwire kit as you said in post #1, it CANNOT possibly discharge the battery. And as the hardwire kit is just three bits of wire, they also CANNOT discharge the battery. The battery discharge will only take place when the camera is connected and switched on.
It's probably because you left the interior lights on for an extended period of time whilst you were fitting the kit that caused your perceived battery 'problem'.

Having a 10A fuse instead of a 2A fuse will not make the slightest difference (other than in a fault condition that you do not have), but please change is when you have the correct fuse, but in the meantime, don't worry about it.


PS. Please don't start yet another thread on the same subject/problem 😍
 

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If the camera is not plugged into the hardwire kit as you said in post #1, it CANNOT possibly discharge the battery. And as the hardwire kit is just three bits of wire, they also CANNOT discharge the battery. The battery discharge will only take place when the camera is connected and switched on.
It's probably because you left the interior lights on for an extended period of time whilst you were fitting the kit that caused your perceived battery 'problem'.
Not quite true as in between the dash cam and the fuse box will probably be a black box that converts 12v to 5v. But that should only be live whilst the ignition is ON unless its in the wrong port........

IE a port that is permanently LIVE
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for the feedback so far.

I checked the battery reading while engine OFF and it was 12.38

On the yellow line there is a little white tube that says 2A - pic below.

Also below is photos of the slots I used and their readings.



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The little tube with the 2A on it is a 2A fuse. (inside the plastic)
And not quite certain what you are trying to demonstrate/tell us/ask us with the voltage pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
As there is no black box does that mean the cam is consuming 12v when engine is off?

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Possibly. If you have one wire to a permanent live fuse then it will draw power with the engine off. What I cant quite get my head around is why the camera needs two 12v feeds (one switched, one permanent). Surely one of them is redundant. I know some cameras need a permanent 12v to operate in 'parked' mode but then why the need for a switched connection as well.

The lack of a black box will mean that the camera is getting 12v which may be a problem if its only designed to run on 5v like many are. I run my front dashcam from the option connector (bottom right pin, switched 12v) with an inline fuse and hardwire kit. I see that this pin on yours is currently free so maybe that would be more suitable. I do know that fuses 32 and 33 (rear power windows) are both switched as well, as would be the front windows fuses.

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.
 

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What I cant quite get my head around is why the camera needs two 12v feeds (one switched, one permanent). Surely one of them is redundant. I know some cameras need a permanent 12v to operate in 'parked' mode but then why the need for a switched connection as well.
The switched 12V is to tell the cam that the car is running or has been parked and the perm 12V to actually run the cam in parking mode?
The lack of a black box will mean that the camera is getting 12v which may be a problem if its only designed to run on 5v like many are.
Please don't confuse the OP with conjecture. Like the Blackvue range, these cams are obviously designed to work with a 12V supply (just look at the manufacturer's cct diagram of the hardwire kit) otherwise they would have a 12-5V converter in line, and they don't.
 
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