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As there is no black box does that mean the cam is consuming 12v when engine is off?
Yes, because that's exactly what it is designed to do. How do you think it would work in parking mode if it had no supply?

Incidentally, it doesn't 'consume' voltage, it 'consumes' current (Amperes).
A good analogy is water in a pipe. Voltage (V) is the water pressure at the feed end, current (I) is the flow rate, and quantity of water in a given time is energy. The diameter of the pipe is roughly the equivalent of resistance (Ohms) in an electrical cct.
 

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maybe the camera has a knock/anti theft sensor

switched live is for the normal camers running while car is in use
the permanent live is for the camera to record while parked up if the camera detects anything abnormal impact or similar
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Yes, because that's exactly what it is designed to do. How do you think it would work in parking mode if it had no supply?.
I assumed the cam will go into low power mode and then when there is an impact it will switch to full power to capture recording.

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Discussion Starter #24
maybe the camera has a knock/anti theft sensor

switched live is for the normal camers running while car is in use
the permanent live is for the camera to record while parked up if the camera detects anything abnormal impact or similar
That's right. That's how the design is.

However my main concern is how the battery health went from 100% green down to 10% green after installing.
If the power consumption is normal then I'm concerned there will come a time when it will possibly kill the battery completely.

I tried just having the switched line plugged in however the cam don't start in accessory nor when engine is running as I'm not too fussed about the parking mode feature.

As I need the car for this BH weekend I have left the unit unplugged from the dash and fuse box. I'll see if the battery health reverts close to 100%. Then I'll see what happens when the cam is operating with the parking mode switched off in the settings.


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The switched 12V is to tell the cam that the car is running or has been parked and the perm 12V to actually run the cam in parking mode?Please don't confuse the OP with conjecture. Like the Blackvue range, these cams are obviously designed to work with a 12V supply (just look at the manufacturer's cct diagram of the hardwire kit) otherwise they would have a 12-5V converter in line, and they don't.
Fair enough.
 

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I assumed the cam will go into low power mode and then when there is an impact it will switch to full power to capture recording.
That is a reasonable assumption that the manual should confirm/deny.
As you said that you went for a longish drive and the 'battery monitor' showed as a tad low, it wouldn't have been the dashcam that affected that so it demonstrates that you seem to be putting too much faith in the 'battery health' monitor. What the hell is that anyway?

Right then here's a diagnostic test that you can do.
NOTE. Remember that any/all wires will/may be live during this test and you MUST make sure that they don't come into contact with any metal bit of the car.
1. Remove either the 2A in line fuse or the 2A piggyback fuse in the yellow wire feeding the camera. If you remove the 2A inline, remember that the end nearest the fusebox is at 12V live (all the time).
2. Switch your meter to its highest A range and move the meter's red lead to the A socket accordingly.
3. Connect the black lead to the end of the wire that goes to the dashcam.
4. Connect the meter's red lead to the fuse connector wire nearest the fusebox.
5. Switch the car on and start the engine.
6. Adjust the A meter's range to get a suitable reading. (It will likely be between 0.5 and 1.5A)
7. Now switch off the car and close the door (making sure that you can still see the meter)
8. Wait 10 mins to make sure that the cam has gone into parking mode or whatever.
9. Take another ammeter reading.
10. Report here with the reading.

There will be current drawn by the dashcam all of the time, how much it does draw will affect how quickly it will discharge the car's battery.
 

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When I went up to visit my parents I used to get the car in the garage overnight and I would stick my dads charger on the car, for no other reason than I could. I always noticed that even though it was on trickle all night the Green dot had disappeared over night. I really think it was "overcharged" so the green light had gone. He has one of the old fashioned Non Smart Models. I really think this is the issue in the OP's case. Hes just driven it for an hour so the battery is as charged as it can get.
 
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