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· -=SBZ=-
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878 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Need some advice guys.

Background:
I was installing an alarm system with glass break and tilt sensor with a 1 mile pager system.
I'm pretty good with electronics so i know i can do it.
Trying to find the right place to put it i ended up selecting the empty space under the radio unit.
Managed to get the dash apart and radio out.

Now at this point i thought *hey why don't i just take a feed from the radio live*
(as most radios have 2 lives, a 12v permanent and an 12v ignition) to save me from running a cable into the engine bay, the alarm doesn't draw that much.
So i get my multimeter out and try to find the +12v feed.
I measure one of the cables and the mirrors fold in (i have the mirror mod)
Bit strange i think, as the car is still unlocked.

So now, with the key out the mirrors stay folded in. The mirror button doesn't work, the central locking on the arm rest doesn't work.
When you first put the key in the dials don't light up and on the first click nothing comes on the dash.
Radio wont turn on. Satnav and a/c screen stay off but ac/heaters work from the buttons.

BUT

With the key in the ignition, the central locking is fine, mirror work as they should. And the dash works.
Radio still wont turn on. Satnav and a/c screen stay off but ac/heaters work from the buttons.
Car starts fine, the only thing different on start up is the red immobiliser led comes on for 2-3 seconds then goes off.

The only thing from a search on here that i can find simlar is this thread:
http://www.civinfo.com/forum/electronics/29536-think-might-have-fried-my-head-unit.html

Which refers the MICU but it turned out to be a fuse under the bonnet. I'm going to check under the bonnet when its light tomorrow.
I have checked some of the fuses in the car: Radio, central locking... there all fine.

Anyone else heard of anything like this, or know which fuse under the bonnet has something to do with all of the above?
 

· -=SBZ=-
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878 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Have check all the fuses? Sometimes the look ok but are blown!
Not all Bog, just the ones i though were relevant. It was getting dark so couldn't see that well.
I'll pull them all one at a time tomorrow and check them with the multimeter.

Do you know much about the fuses under the bonnet?
 

· Premium Member
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6,239 Posts
I think there is only one under e bonnet for the interior, an 80 amp one which feed the interior fuse box and if that had gone, nothing would work inside.

Let me do sone research and I'll post back in a bit :)

Pretty sure it's nothing too serious ... Just a fuse somewhere !
 

· -=SBZ=-
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878 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Small update, I've read the DCT codes.

I have

DTC B1235 : A Problem in the Driver's Air Mix Control Linkage, Door, or Motor

DTC B1238 : A Problem in the Passenger's Air Mix Control Linkage, Door, or Motor

DTC B2991 : Climate Control Unit Lost Communication with Audio HVAC Subdisplay Unit (with audio system)

Not too bothered about the first 2, i think there old codes or seem to be fixed now.

Its the last one that makes the most sense.
 

· Premium Member
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6,239 Posts
Have you checked fuse 35? (7.5 amp) It covers..... Accessory power socket, Audio unit, Interface dial, Cigarette lighter, Hands-Free Telephone control unit, Navigation display unit, Navigation unit.

And have still got the alarm connected to the radio perm 12v?
 

· -=SBZ=-
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878 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Have you checked fuse 35? (7.5 amp) It covers..... Accessory power socket, Audio unit, Interface dial, Cigarette lighter, Hands-Free Telephone control unit, Navigation display unit, Navigation unit.

And have still got the alarm connected to the radio perm 12v?
No, as soon as strange things happened i stopped what i was doing and tried to find the fault.

Is that the pink or red one at the top of the block on the left?
This morning i pulled the fuses one at a time and checked the filament in them. They all looked sound.

More digging in the dark forgotten parts of civinfo i found:

The MICU that is combined with the under-dash fuse/relay box is the one of the B-CAN network components. The MICU controls many systems related to the body controller area and a security system, and also works as a gateway to diagnose the other B-CAN connected ECUs with the HDS.

Fail-safe Function


When a CPU problem or a abnormal power supply voltage is detected, the MICU moves to the hardware fail-safe mode, and each system output load is set to the pre-programmed fail-safe value.

Software Fail-safe Control


When any of the data from the B-CAN circuit cannot be received within a specified time, or an unusual combination of the data is recognized, the MICU moves to the software fail-safe mode. The data that cannot be received is forced to pre-programmed value.

The MICU controls the door lock actuators based upon the ignition key switch signal, the driver's door switch signal and the driver's door lock knob switch signal.

The MICU also controls the function of these circuits:

Entry lights control (map lights*, ceiling light)
Exterior lights control
Horn
Keyless entry
Power door locks
Security alarm
Turn signal/hazard flasher
 

· Premium Member
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1,216 Posts
shhiiitt sorry to hear this bud . im not good but i hope u get this resolved. yeah looks like ecu in safe mode / tamper mode.

i know my old mercedes was in like an optical fibre loop with the climate control /cd changer / radio / telephone / sat nav / amp was all in one loop . if disconnected by accident ( had to one time when taking apart dash board) it kept saying error . in the end had to take it to mercedes to plug in their special star software to re enable all software for the hardware. this was a 11 year old car. how clever of mercedes

basically you might need to get your ecu to learn it has a radio again
 

· Banned
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1,911 Posts
I did this to my first Honda when fitting a double din. I can't remember what happened but faced exactly the same problems as yourself. Except, I never checked to see if mirrors worked or not and I can't remember if dials lit up or not.

I'm 99% certain you've blown a fuse. I don't know which one.

I'm quite sure it could be 35 INSIDE car, don't panic if you pull 35 out and it's fine as this happened to me over a year ago. Regardless, it will not be a fuse outside. It'll be one or maybe a couple inside your car. Try #35 first. If not pull your manual out go to page 479 and look for the ones which relate to your problem and check 'em.
 

· Premium Member
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1,216 Posts
Thanks good news... you can un-clench those bum cheeks now lol.
lollllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll
 

· Premium Member
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295 Posts
Just had exactly the same problem. Changing fuse 16 has fixed it. It's really odd though, I'm positive I tested them all with a multimeter and they were all fine. I found this thread after searching and tried just changing it and it worked.

So thats 3 of us that missed it somehow!!
 

· Registered
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I just had the same problem as this after messing with my bluetooth HFT module it blown fuse number 16 a 15amp under the bonnet, a note to others you shouldnt have to go out and buy more fuses in the center row of the under bonnet fuse box are a range of spare fuses providing they havnt been used already.
BTW does anyone know the default location of the fuse puller I cant find in either fuse box perhaps its lost. A thin screw driver should surffice in prising fuses out providing your careful.
 
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