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Honda Accord VII 2.2 I-CTDI 2005 Fuel rail Pressure error (P0193)

747 Views 22 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  UK-Kev

I am new to this forum, but I searched a lot of the Honda forums. I have an Accord 2.2 litre diesel engine from 2005. I bought it used 5 years ago. Needless to say, I had no significant problems other than an alternator failure in the first year of having it. Until last year when suddenly the motor got to limp mode and had Map sensor issues, losing power and having trouble accelerating. After getting the battery off and replacing the battery the issue went off, and could drive for quite a while until it reappeared.
But last year it was more frequent than any other time so I bought an OBD scanner from ZUS. And replaced the MAP sensor, but with no success. After going to HONDA authorised service and Honda reseller where they cleaned the intake manifold and tested the EGR valve(according to them it functioned correctly and they also made a test to see if it stays open)I started to have random engine stalls and P0193 error codes. These stalls occurred especially in the cold times (spring, fall, winter) and after having run the motor for a while, not on cold starts.
The stalls got so bad and so frequent that I replaced the fuel rail pressure sensor in February (all was good, had some 300+ km runs with it without a problem since).
In the last couple of weeks, I started having again the same error code P0193 on random occasions, under load, or just by staying at a traffic light at idle, etc. So I replaced the Fuel rail pump altogether with a new one from Bosch. I went 100+ km all good but after leaving the car for a while in a parking slot, 5hrs+, when I came back, put the ignition on and voila error code( not even started the motor) P0069, P1069, P2199, P0193. Reset the codes, started the motor and it went to limp mode with the P0069 code on. I reseated the map sensor connection then it went away. I managed to drive back home another 100+ km without any problems.
A couple of days later (as in today) in the morning got to the car put the ignition on, and the same codes as before, reset, limp mode sustained and P0069, P1069 remained. And tried to reset it but it remained. Went to a service to replace the (fuel relief valve) cuz that was the next best thing to do but the service was not open, so I got back with no error.
Will do the test for the valve today and get back to you.

P.S.: could it be that these errors are from a faulty alternator? From when I replaced it, the voltage never got higher than 13.7 volts. Should I also check the alternator?
The fuel filter was changed in February. Also the air filter.

Any other suggestion after checking the Fuel relief valve? What can I do to get the car to be more reliable?

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hi @kovacssupki , did you test fuel relief valve? I have a problem with hot start ,did you ever had this problem? I did test for fuel relief valve but seems to be ok. Mechanics can't help ,been to 4 already . From what I've been reading here some say to clean EGR , some is ECU faulty , pressure relieve valve , fuel filter, maybe injector leaking ... I'm confused. Thanks
You might want to get your MAP sensor tested.
@UK-Kev , idk if you asked me or the author of this thread , but I cleaned MAP sensor yesterday but wasn’t so dirty ,so I didn’t feel much difference after cleaned.
idk if you asked me or the author of this thread , but I cleaned MAP sensor yesterday but wasn’t so dirty ,so I didn’t feel much difference after cleaned.
@victor11 I did not say clean the MAP sensor I advised you to TEST your MAP sensor because I believe your sensor is kaput.
My map sensor was changed in February. and then all my intake was cleaned with EGR. Also, I found one of the injectors has a high fuel return ratio. like 20 times more than the other 3. So maybe that's the problem with the stalling and low fuel pressure error.
Also in the meantime replaced the fuel rail pump (don't recommend it's not that) and it's F..n expensive 1000 euro -ish.
  • Do the fuel pressure release valve test( it's easy)
  • Do the injector fuel return test.
Now I have to find the right injector.
I found 16450 RMA E02 (Bosch code: 0 445 110 236) but the old one is 16450 RBD E01 (bosch code: 0 445 110 172) so don't know if they are compatible.
I looked up both can be on Honda Accords from 2004 -2007.
Need help with this.
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If you can live without your motor for a couple of days, why not get your injectors serviced with cost a lot less then new or reconditioned injectors.
When you had your new MAP sensor fitted did you follow the MAP relearn procedure.
I will have to go in this weekend for a long drive. So will push for repair tomorrow. Also did not know about Map relearn procedure.

This is the result from the injector test. So it's pretty obvious.
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@victor11 I think the injector test will reveal the same for you also. For me the same was at the beginning, random stalls and hard restarts then it got worst over the year.
@kovacssupki Yes I SHOULD try too, where did you get hoses for this test? And is strange why this problem on my end started after mechanic changed timing chain kit. Or is a coincidence maybe , someone right said don’t repair nothing if still works . I choose to change timing kit because few years back broke on a wv. Better if didn’t open engine.
I did test again for fuel pressure valve now and this time it was present diesel in the bottle but like 10 grams in 10-15 second and I Shut off engine because also threw all over diesel from the little metal pipe see photo

and for injector I will go to a service ,can't do myself. Thanks
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For injector test You just remove the pipes the ones on the top the flexible ones it's easy to remove. And you can put pipes from any home Depot in Romania ai got them from Hornbach or aquarium transparent pipes. And put them in 4 separate bottle. Run the car cold for at least 5 minutes. I think it's not the release valve. The test it's easy.
When you changed the timing did he removed all injectors. It may be due to contamination of the pipes or dirt got into one of the injectors. And can't operate now.
@kovacssupki , yes he removed them also changed those small o rings from injectors.
Please do the injector test. Let's see what it results. it's fairly simple you just have to unplug the little hoses from the top of the injector (the ones like you disconnected when doing the relief valve test) put the aquarium tube on both of the exits for injectors 2 to 4 and one for the first, put all hoses to a separate container for each injector, and start the motor for 5 minutes. This test you should do it when cold, and also when hot. and see the result in the container.
The fact that you are leaking on the return pipe it means some of the injectors are turning bad, and leaking on the return.
@kovacssupki ,thanks, I did the test, but wasn’t that accurate because the tubes which I bought one of 6mm didn’t match perfect with size of little hole of top of injectors, i hand in bottles diesel and also on the engine, thinking to go to a service and remove them for sending to a specialize machine for professional testing. Actually injectors are hard to remove? I am thinking what if the guy which installed timing chain missed one or two teeth ? the car would start or not? Because some of the mechanics says yes some no. Look here how is my hot start.
Honda Civic 2.2 diesel hot start issue #hondacivic #hondaaccord #dieselengine
Yep, the same was mine. This is just the start.
@UK-Kev Is it ok during the remapping/ map relearning period in idle to fluctuate slightly like very slightly the rpm? I started it cold today and fluctuated (rpm) a little as it was when the ac compressor was on, but It was off. When it went up to 78 degrees coolant and the throttle opened to max it stopped.
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