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Tools needed

Phillips Screwdriver
12mm spanner
17mm spanner
Black marker pen
Long nose Pliers


First step is to take dash out from under steering wheel.



Take out screw


Pop trim off


Leaves you like this



Next step is to loosen off 17mm locking nut from clutch pedal stopper/cruise control button and unclip the wire from the top.





Then unscrew the stopper completely leaving access to the master cylinder push rod behind.




Pushrod behind


Mark pushrod with black marker so you know how much it has been turned later on.

Depress the clutch to make the 12mm locking nut on the pushrod visible.


Loosen 12mm locking nut then release clutch.

Twist push rod in shown direction with long nose pliers to raise biting point from the floor. 1 full revolution for me was enough to raise the biting point from the floor to roughly 1/3 - 1/2 way up the pedal travel.


Once happy depress clutch again and tighten 12mm lock nut ensuring push rod doesnt turn with it, un-doing all your hard work.

Replace stopper and tighten 17mm lock nut. Ensure you leave a little free play in the clutch so you dont end up riding the clutch and burning it out.

Video below gives you an idea, doesnt have to be as much as this but it was just to show what free play should feel like.

IMG_1395_zps884e88b6.mp4 Video by Lazytrev | Photobucket

Dont forget to clip wire back into the top of clutch stopper or cruise control wont work.

Hope this helps.
 

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Hey mate, thank for this - makes perfect sense. Will give this a go on the weekend!!!

I will PM dweelze now too.
 

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I think this would explain why mine has been ok, recently a decent main dealer redone my master cylinder, so looks like they may have adjusted it as well, good how to though and has it sorted your problem
 

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Good how to! Ideas on whether this would be similar doing this to the 2.2 ?
 

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Just done mine, worked a treat thanks for that and to think when I bought the car I was a bit concerned about the bitting point so much I took it back to the place I got it from Leeds motor company and asked them about it being so low and could be adjusted. Now the guy I spoke to was the head repairs, I also told him it was hard to change gears when in vtec, his reply was you can't change gears in vtec and you can't adjust the bitting point. When he said you can't change gears in vtec I should went asked to speak to a proper mechanic.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Good how to! Ideas on whether this would be similar doing this to the 2.2 ?
I have no idea mate, I would imagine its a similar setup though as they are all hydraulically operated.

When he said you can't change gears in vtec I should went asked to speak to a proper mechanic.
Haha brilliant! What an idiot please tell me it wasn't a Honda garage.
 

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Nah wasn't a honda garage, the guy was a plank thinking he could tell any old pooh. Not sure if it's me or just a placibo but car feels nice and smooth not had chance to take on the motorway and see if changing to 5th and 6th are any better.
 

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Excellent tip, adjusted mine 3/4 of a turn, bite point now a couple of inches from floor & its also cured a bit of 'notchyness' when changing down into 2nd. I will add that due to access you can only turn the push rod a fraction at a time so its critical to mark it first so you know its moved. Mine's a CTS1.8 by the way
 

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Hmm, interesting.. good guide.

My biting point seems to be too high! - Clutch wear?

The squeakiness combined with the high biting point is making gear changes seem difficult in general.. Engine speed vs wheel speed & finding the balance.

Any thoughts?
 

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Just done this and what a difference it makes to VTEC gear changes. Well worth the half hour or so it takes, all I would say is its worth having a decent 12 mm spanner to hand as you wouldn't want to destroy the locking nut and may be worth marking the threads on the cruise control micro switch for when you put it back on.
 

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Just tried to do this now. I have loosened the lock nut holding the push rod but the pushrod cannot be twisted at all even using alot of force with appropriate pliers. Im thinking either the rod is bent or something else is holding it in place. Any solutions?
 

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Just tried to do this now. I have loosened the lock nut holding the push rod but the pushrod cannot be twisted at all even using alot of force with appropriate pliers. Im thinking either the rod is bent or something else is holding it in place. Any solutions?
I had the same problem. I got round it by screwing the bolt you undid up to the top and using that to turn the shaft


Sent from my Nokia 3310
 

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I had the same problem. I got round it by screwing the bolt you undid up to the top and using that to turn the shaft


Sent from my Nokia 3310
Thanks. Got round it in the end by using a bigger set of pliers and some force. One it started to move it could be moved easily.

Also I switched the LED on my phone on and rested my phone above the foot rest plate. This allowed me to clearly see what I was doing.

To jsxx AFAIK provided you keep some freeplay in the pedal you should be ok. Mine probably has less than 1cm of free play now but still enough.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
 
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