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Need help ASAP, is this EGR valve sludge stuck? Where i the end of the opening of the EGR, where the metal circle ends or?



Never mind, I found photo here on forum how does clean ER looks like. I was hoping to find more sludge inside, but somebody previously cleaned it. I gave my best with screwdriver and brake cleaner, and this is the end result.





When I fitted everythig back together and tried to star the engine, car cought a little bit and start up. No error light. I will drive it later and see if there any improvement.

P.S i found very dificulty to clean the EGR pipe (picture number 3), because its tight space and not sure if its clean there or not...
 

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Stephen

Hi have read all the posts about coked up inlet manifold & EGR. Have the same problem on my 2010 SI CIVIC 2.2 diesel (only 56,000 miles). Have cleaned everything but problem still there, [email protected] in all gears (mostly higher gears).

People advising to have the engine remapped? Was this a software patch that would have been done by HONDA without communicating to the customer? Suspect mine was not done? Don't want to pay main dealer prices, would appreciate how I could do this without having to go to HONDA?
 

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Hesitation can be many things, not just an EGR valve problem. When you cleaned the valve did you actually apply a vacuum to check that it was closing properly,, as simply cleaning is a waste of time.

Another likely suspect for hesitation would be the frequency solenoid valve, which controls the intake manifold runner control. A quick check for that is to disconnect the electrical plug to see if the hesitation disappears... you'll get the EML come on but you'll know if it's driving better.

Never get a car remapped to 'solve' a problem!!! That's really bad advice and any reputable remapper should refuse to remap a car that isn't already running properly. This isn't ever done by Honda, by the way.
 

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Thanks John G, yes checked vacuum, seal is good & working fine. Actually swapped out EGR from my other running fine civic 2.2 (I have two LOL, same year, same spec). Problem still remained, although drove better for a little while.

Your advice below -
frequency solenoid valve, where is it located?
If I disconnect to verify & a Waring light comes on will it go off again when checked or will it stay on?
How long can I drive with it disconnected?

"Another likely suspect for hesitation would be the frequency solenoid valve, which controls the intake manifold runner control. A quick check for that is to disconnect the electrical plug to see if the hesitation disappears... you'll get the EML come on but you'll know if it's driving better."
 

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Thanks again John G. What is your background? Hobby mechanic or professional? Don't want to bombard you with questions but you been a great help:)
Professional engineer, hobby mechanic, '80s stock car racer and Civinfo regular... having owned a 2005 diesel Honda (Accord) for 10 years/100k miles I became very familiar with related fuel injection problems. The accord eventually died when it lost oil pressure and I couldn't be bothered to fix it anymore.

Have you actually found the problem yet?
 

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John G performance much improved but have not got round to swapping out the solenoid. When I cleaned the inlet manifold I did not remove from the head. Afraid to break into the common rail. If common rail & injector pipes are removed to completely remove the inlet manifold for cleaning is it difficult to bleed again. I'm aware of the bladder & have replaced the fuel filter, its buried deep OMG. But bladder only bleeds up to high pressure pump?

Have you ever replaced injectors, are they welded in like other diesels? Had MERC had to get pullers to get them out, nightmare.

Really like the little car, but hearing rumbles deep down in the drivetrain, not sure if its driveshaft or floating flywheel. Also it pinks quite badly when cold. Notice this a lot with other diesels when cold. Thought it might be chain but noise goes when hot. Heard all the stories about supermarket fuel. Any ideas?
 

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John G performance much improved but have not got round to swapping out the solenoid. When I cleaned the inlet manifold I did not remove from the head. Afraid to break into the common rail. If common rail & injector pipes are removed to completely remove the inlet manifold for cleaning is it difficult to bleed again. I'm aware of the bladder & have replaced the fuel filter, its buried deep OMG. But bladder only bleeds up to high pressure pump?

Have you ever replaced injectors, are they welded in like other diesels? Had MERC had to get pullers to get them out, nightmare.

Really like the little car, but hearing rumbles deep down in the drivetrain, not sure if its driveshaft or floating flywheel. Also it pinks quite badly when cold. Notice this a lot with other diesels when cold. Thought it might be chain but noise goes when hot. Heard all the stories about supermarket fuel. Any ideas?
The high pressure lines are self-bleeding, but you can save the starter motor a lot of effort by giving the hand pump 50 squeezes before cranking. That is the advice in the official Honda workshop manual.

I took all my injectors out when replacing the chains. Was actually pretty easy, I think problems only really happen after the seals have been leaking. I actually produced threads on another forum on removing and refitting my injectors... can dig links out if you're serious.

Rumbling would suggest a pending DMF problem to me. Chains are more a scratching, rubbing, clicking kind of noise.

I am of the opinion that supermarket fuel is exactly the same as any other fuel... I don't understand the logic of it being considered inferior. I realise many believe it to be inferior, but the evidence is always heresay or anecdotes.
 

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There is another discussion topic within civinfo on this subject (
Civinfo > 8th Generation Euro Honda Civic (2006 - 2011) > Engines and Transmission > Faults Engine hesitation under light acceleration

take a look at the above discussion.

I procrastinated over doing this and after several months finally removed the intake manifold to find that the ports were virtually blocked where they entered the head with carbon deposites which needed to be chipped out using an engineers scribe, there is no way that this could be removed using cleaning sprays or petrol and a brush, the channels follow a curving route before they enter the head and you could never access them without removal.

Go for it!
:smile3:
 

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Hello all,

My '59 plate is just creeping towards 60k on the clock so I'm considering cleaning the EGR now. I'm pretty handy around the car so not worried about getting it done mechanically. I did have small question though, which was if I bought the following kit from Cox, could I just remove the EGR, stick it in a bucket and cover it inside and out with the Tunap cleaner or is there anything I need to be careful not to cover in the cleaner?

https://www.coxmotorparts.co.uk/honda-shop/genuine-honda-civic-2-2-diesel-egr-valve-gasket-kit-tunap-micro-flex-926-egr-valve-cleaner-2006-2011/

I'm also thinking about using a plastic trim removal tool to scoop out gunk from the inlet and do my best not to knock anything into the inlet. Does this sound like a reasonable plan?

Cheers all.
 

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There's no need to dunk the ERG valve, just clean up the gummed up valve and it's job done.

The kit seems expensive, how much are the gaskets alone? They're thin metal reusable provided they don't rip. Unlike compressible gaskets should always be replaced.

FYI: you won't get much gunk out of manifold unless you remove the manifold. Nowt stopping you from trying tho.

Is a right dirty job, have fun.
 

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Just done this on my 2007 tractor with 110k, and only have one shredded finger! Seems to have gone well so far - haven't got round to driving it yet, though. Next stop is the fuel filter... can't wait for that one(!).

Great guide: Easy to follow; and thorough instructions. Thanks for posting the guide - it's working well, even 7 years later! Only difference is I followed the rubber tube from the top of the valve along the metal tubing, and unplugged at that end - just found it a bit easier. That's all I did differently, though!
 

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Just a quick thank you to the OP. Had some hesitation in the car when cruising and juddering when at a low RPM. Found the guide extremely helpful. The valve was roughly 70% blocked. Found it quite easy to remove the deposits, perhaps it was the bottle of RedEx I ran through the system? Used petrol and a rag and just scooped it out. Vehicle is on 160k and is running really well now, it feels solid.
 

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Obligatory thank you for this guide. It fixed the cars stuttering when cruising between 15k to 2k rpms.
I thought it would fix the delay in accelerating when going full throtle but it seems to have accentuated it.

Heres the before, got too excited to put it back forgot the after:
 

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I read the first 50 pages of this thread (on mobile) Just got the seals -
Going to give this a go over the weekend 06 plate 176k miles on the clock don’t know if it’s been done before - I’ll post before and after photos
 

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I read the first 50 pages of this thread (on mobile) Just got the seals -
Going to give this a go over the weekend 06 plate 176k miles on the clock don’t know if it’s been done before - I’ll post before and after photos
I had a bloody good go - but I couldn’t get the bottom to bolts to loosen for love nor money. I’ve got the grazed knuckles and cuts up my arm for putting pressure trying to shift em.

Must say I’ve never done anything more than change the tyres but I would still massively advocate people doing this - it is easy I just couldn’t shift the bolts underneath (I’m not the biggest of blokes)

Tried wd-40, warming the engine, even tied washing line to the ratchet handle and tried pulling that - no luck - think they’re rusted in
 
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