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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all. I have a 4-door Honda Civic 2006 LX 1.8.

The engine light came on last week. The mechanic's computer gave error codes P2183 and P0111. I replaced the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor on top with a genuine Honda part. The engine light went away. Then today it came back on, then went off by itself, then it came back on and stayed on.

Today he got the following codes: P2185, P2183, P0111, and P0128. I did my research and these codes seem to be common for this car, but I havent found any conclusive solutions or answers as to what fixed the problem.

I found this useful: http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/Ho...201805_hyb.pdf. And the common opinion on the internet says it is a corroded or broken pin from the ECT #2 sensor at the bottom of the radiator, but I havent found any reports that confirmed the error codes going away after replacing the 2-pin head on the ECT #2.

Before I go ahead and replace the ECT #2 or the 2-pin head, does anyone know if this is most likely the ECT #2 sensor, the thermostat, or the IAT sensor?

I'm trying to repair this myself so any tips you can share would be muchly appreciated it. Thanks
 

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I have the diesel version and had a fault with coolant sensor on radiator. When the light came on the fan would run on after I turned the car off. I got one for £22 from gsf and changed the sensor, it has been fine ever since! Easy job you will need a deep socket and then just swap it quickly to prevent coolant loss!

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Tomlegg. I have a feeling what's causing these errors is corrosion on the sensor itself or the 2-pin connector. do you think I may be able to clean the corrosion off? How would you recommend I do that?
thanks
 

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I would just change the sensor out rather than clean it, I think they are £70 roughly from the dealer. The wiring loom is just the small one that runs round the fan shroud, the dealer had the replacement connectors in stock for around £4. Not too expensive, I found that gsf did them and ordered just the sensor and that did the trick!! I would imagine the wiring has to be soldered in if you change that.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Replaced the ECT2 sensor and reset the engine light. It's been off for over a week and 700km. So I think that might have solved the problem. Even though when I took out the old ECT2 sensor it was still shiny and looked new without any signs of corrosion on it. Didnt notice much corrosion around the 2-pin terminal/connector or the wires either.
 
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