Joined
·
562 Posts
One of the reasons why I got my CTS a bit cheaper than other models of the same year + milage was that the previous owner had curbed the living hell out of the alloys. It was a bit of a shame, as I haven't seen many Civics with these particular 18" alloys- so rather than replace them, I thought I'd have a stab at refurbishing them myself!
![]()
![]()
So rather than spend £400+ on having them professionally done, I'd much rather spend £50 and do the refurb myself. I wanted to see if I could do it or not, and at fifty quid for the paint, primer and filler, it wouldn't be the end of the world if I messed it up.
What I used
Step 1
Remove alloy wheels from car and clean them using water and a de-greasing solution that doesn't leave any residue. I have a jet wash, so used this to give them a deep clean. This also stripped a lot of the dead flaking paint from the alloys, which saved me a lot of time on the sanding process. It is important not to wash with a solution or wax because this will prevent the primer and base coat from sticking to the alloy.
Step 2
Sand the alloys to a smooth finish. To do this, start with a corse sand paper around the curbed parts of the alloy. I used 60-80 grit sand paper to get rid of the rashes and shards of metal.
![]()
For any peeling paint, use a finer sand paper, such as 120 grit, and rub down until all the bad paint has gone and you've removed all of the lacquer finish. It's best to use a finer sand paper because a low grit will scratch the surface of the alloy, which you'd then need to fill.
If filler is required, mix to the recommended consistency; normally a golf ball size amount of filler to a pea size amount of hardener and apply to the affected area. Leave to dry for about 20 minutes and then sand down with 80 grit, then 120 grit to blend and shape. Repeat this process if necessary. Once you're happy with the finish, make sure the surface completely dirt, grit and dust free before spraying! Take your time, prep is the most important part.
Step 3
Because of the condition of my alloys, I wanted to apply a filler primer to cover the old paint and filled areas, before the etch and base coat. This will help to create a smooth finish, preserve the alloys and fill in any rashes too small for the paste filler. This is not essential, but I would recommend using a filler primer if you intend on keeping the old base coat on your alloys, as you'll be able to blend this in with the existing base coat.
![]()
![]()
When spraying, always start with a couple of light dust coats and wait about 10 minutes between each. This creates a tacky film for the remaining coats to stick to. After this, apply 3-4 slightly thicker coats, covering the entire wheel. Building the layers up slowly with 10-15 minutes intervals is best- but don't worry if you go too heavy, as this will be sanded down once dry anyway. I applied a thicker coat in areas that needed filling, so that I had more material to work with once I re-sanded. Remember to spray in a dust free, well ventilated area for best results.
Once you're happy, allow to dry for at least 24 hours and then re-sand with a high grit sand paper. I used 200-600 grit paper, depending on the areas to achieve a smooth finish. If you're trying to blend the filler primer in with existing paint, you may want to use a wet sandpaper process, but this wasn't necessary for me, as I covered the entire wheel. Again, take your time and once completed, remove all dirt and dust, ready for the next stage!
Step 4
The next stage is the essential etch primer. This is what your base coat will stick too, so getting this right is essential. With the same technique as before, apply 2 even dust coats of etch primer, allowing 10 minutes between to dry to a tacky film. Once done, apply 3-4 thicker coats of etch primer, covering the entire alloy. If there is a slight run, don't panic, continue applying even coats and if needs be, take a more abrasive approach to sanding, once completely dry (this takes at least 24 hours).
![]()
Ideally, once dry, you want to lightly sand the entire alloy with a 600 or higher grit sand paper to achieve a super smooth surface. The highest grit sand paper I had was 800, but most professionals tend to use a higher grit to achieve the best results. The reason why we are sanding the area is not to rub away what we've just sprayed, but to insure the surface for the base coat is flawless. The finished article is only as good as your prep!
Step 5
Once you're sure your prep is perfect, it's time to apply your base coat. I brought a can of gunmetal grey for each wheel, so I ended up with applying approximately 8 coats. I used the exactly the same process as before, however, I made each coat slightly thinner, so that I could prevent any running. I applied each coat of paint, starting with 2 even dust coats, and then 6-7 thin, even coats to build up a deep colour, covering the entire wheel.
![]()
It is difficult with spray cans, however, keeping to an identical spraying pattern each time helps to achieve the best possible results and even spread. Once happy, allow to dry for at least 24 hours,
Step 6
Once your base coat is completely dry, carefully wipe the entire alloy with a dust cloth to remove any dust particles from the paint that may have collected.
Next is to apply the lacquer. For best results, leave the can in warm water for approximately 5 minutes after shaking. This will help with an even spread and prevent running.
Apply a light dust coat on the alloy first and allow to dry for 15 minutes. This may result in a small amount of orange peel effect, but not to worry, because this will vanish once you start covering the alloys. I sprayed approximately 4-5 coats on each alloy, keeping each coat quite thick. This will maximise the gloss effect on the alloy and prevent the orange peel effect. If your coats of lacquer aren't thick enough, you may end up with a matte effect, so just make sure you keep it even across the entire alloy. Once you're happy, leave to dry for 24 hours and inspect your work!
![]()
The alloy will take approximately a week to fully cure, so avoid any grease, wax or washing solution during this time frame.
So rather than spend £400+ on having them professionally done, I'd much rather spend £50 and do the refurb myself. I wanted to see if I could do it or not, and at fifty quid for the paint, primer and filler, it wouldn't be the end of the world if I messed it up.
What I used
- Autotek Filler Primer
- E-Tech Etch Primer
- 4 x E-Tech Gunmetal Grey Base Paint
- 2 x E-Tech High Gloss Lacquer
- Isopon P38 Filler
- Sand Paper 60-800 grit (Wet and dry)
Step 1
Remove alloy wheels from car and clean them using water and a de-greasing solution that doesn't leave any residue. I have a jet wash, so used this to give them a deep clean. This also stripped a lot of the dead flaking paint from the alloys, which saved me a lot of time on the sanding process. It is important not to wash with a solution or wax because this will prevent the primer and base coat from sticking to the alloy.
Step 2
Sand the alloys to a smooth finish. To do this, start with a corse sand paper around the curbed parts of the alloy. I used 60-80 grit sand paper to get rid of the rashes and shards of metal.
For any peeling paint, use a finer sand paper, such as 120 grit, and rub down until all the bad paint has gone and you've removed all of the lacquer finish. It's best to use a finer sand paper because a low grit will scratch the surface of the alloy, which you'd then need to fill.
If filler is required, mix to the recommended consistency; normally a golf ball size amount of filler to a pea size amount of hardener and apply to the affected area. Leave to dry for about 20 minutes and then sand down with 80 grit, then 120 grit to blend and shape. Repeat this process if necessary. Once you're happy with the finish, make sure the surface completely dirt, grit and dust free before spraying! Take your time, prep is the most important part.
Step 3
Because of the condition of my alloys, I wanted to apply a filler primer to cover the old paint and filled areas, before the etch and base coat. This will help to create a smooth finish, preserve the alloys and fill in any rashes too small for the paste filler. This is not essential, but I would recommend using a filler primer if you intend on keeping the old base coat on your alloys, as you'll be able to blend this in with the existing base coat.
When spraying, always start with a couple of light dust coats and wait about 10 minutes between each. This creates a tacky film for the remaining coats to stick to. After this, apply 3-4 slightly thicker coats, covering the entire wheel. Building the layers up slowly with 10-15 minutes intervals is best- but don't worry if you go too heavy, as this will be sanded down once dry anyway. I applied a thicker coat in areas that needed filling, so that I had more material to work with once I re-sanded. Remember to spray in a dust free, well ventilated area for best results.
Once you're happy, allow to dry for at least 24 hours and then re-sand with a high grit sand paper. I used 200-600 grit paper, depending on the areas to achieve a smooth finish. If you're trying to blend the filler primer in with existing paint, you may want to use a wet sandpaper process, but this wasn't necessary for me, as I covered the entire wheel. Again, take your time and once completed, remove all dirt and dust, ready for the next stage!
Step 4
The next stage is the essential etch primer. This is what your base coat will stick too, so getting this right is essential. With the same technique as before, apply 2 even dust coats of etch primer, allowing 10 minutes between to dry to a tacky film. Once done, apply 3-4 thicker coats of etch primer, covering the entire alloy. If there is a slight run, don't panic, continue applying even coats and if needs be, take a more abrasive approach to sanding, once completely dry (this takes at least 24 hours).
Ideally, once dry, you want to lightly sand the entire alloy with a 600 or higher grit sand paper to achieve a super smooth surface. The highest grit sand paper I had was 800, but most professionals tend to use a higher grit to achieve the best results. The reason why we are sanding the area is not to rub away what we've just sprayed, but to insure the surface for the base coat is flawless. The finished article is only as good as your prep!
Step 5
Once you're sure your prep is perfect, it's time to apply your base coat. I brought a can of gunmetal grey for each wheel, so I ended up with applying approximately 8 coats. I used the exactly the same process as before, however, I made each coat slightly thinner, so that I could prevent any running. I applied each coat of paint, starting with 2 even dust coats, and then 6-7 thin, even coats to build up a deep colour, covering the entire wheel.
It is difficult with spray cans, however, keeping to an identical spraying pattern each time helps to achieve the best possible results and even spread. Once happy, allow to dry for at least 24 hours,
Step 6
Once your base coat is completely dry, carefully wipe the entire alloy with a dust cloth to remove any dust particles from the paint that may have collected.
Next is to apply the lacquer. For best results, leave the can in warm water for approximately 5 minutes after shaking. This will help with an even spread and prevent running.
Apply a light dust coat on the alloy first and allow to dry for 15 minutes. This may result in a small amount of orange peel effect, but not to worry, because this will vanish once you start covering the alloys. I sprayed approximately 4-5 coats on each alloy, keeping each coat quite thick. This will maximise the gloss effect on the alloy and prevent the orange peel effect. If your coats of lacquer aren't thick enough, you may end up with a matte effect, so just make sure you keep it even across the entire alloy. Once you're happy, leave to dry for 24 hours and inspect your work!
The alloy will take approximately a week to fully cure, so avoid any grease, wax or washing solution during this time frame.
