managed to do job without removing panel, bit of a faff, but iff you take your time not too bad. used 8 mm open/ring spanner + socket. had to drill 2 small holes in panel to access the 2 nuts inside the metalwork, just large enough to pass the socket. these holes will be covered when the access panels are refitted. found guide a great help / THANKSFollow this guide at your own risk. I've attempted to make it as straightforward as possible but can't promise that I've covered every detail.
To replace the original centre light panel for a CTR one on a pre-2009 Civic usually we have to also replace the brake light panel on the driver's side. I didn't have one of those, so I'll be covering off an alternative method.
So, we start with the old panel.
Firstly we need to get at the bolts; and there are two options for this. Firstly, remove the interior panels starting from the outside and moving in.
I was quite firm with these and the clips are not as fragile as other places. Use a flathead screwdriver on the outer edge - there is an indentation for it - and once that's free just pull it away.
With the panels off, you can see the bulb mounts and nuts holding the panel in.
Unfortunately, some of these are blocked by the plastic of the boot panel.
If you think you can get at these then go for it, as you'll then not have to remove the boot panel. If you can't, and I couldn't, then the boot panel is coming off!
Undo the screws in the handles
note that the rounded-rectangular panel in the middle doesn't cover up any mounting screws so can stay in place
Here's a few photos of the panel from the back
Take a REALLY GOOD LOOK at where those white pins are, you want to be applying your pulling force directly on top of them. If you don't then this happens.
Put the seats down, lift the false floor and get in the boot.
Start at one of the bottom corners - don't use the handle to pull (that was my mistake!), get some leverage underneath the bottom edge below the plastic pin and pull directly away. Once this is done, you can work your way around the edges. Some areas are flexible and some require a lot of force to pull away, but they all do. Don't forget the two underneath by the latch
both of mine stayed in the metalwork rather than the plastic so I had to take these out with pliers and put them back into the boot panel.
That's by far the most difficult bit, so if you've done that then well done - smooth sailing from here!
With the entire back now visible
we can start undoing the nuts. They're all actually very easy to remove with only two of them being threadlocked on to secure the handle section.
There's three on each of the side light panels
and 10 for the centre light.
Two of these are hidden and are accessible through holes in the metalwork
Disconnect all the wiring for the centre light panel.
Back outside the car, pull away the brake light panels from the outside edge
until the locating tabs are free of the centre light panel
And then simply pull out the centre panel!
Swap over the bulbs (they twist and pull out, some are tight fits and a pair of pliers was useful here).
Put the new panel in place, and redo the bolts inside.
This is where you options are twofold. If you've got a replacement brake light panel with the fog light in it, replace that panel now - otherwise replace the original lights and bolt those in.
Back in the boot.
Strip back the tape on the wiring loom. If you've got the replacement fog light panel, you'll need enough slack to connect it and then you're done.
If you haven't, then you can use one of the reverse light mounts (the one on the driver's side to ensure it's legal) for a fog light. Therefore get enough slack on the fog light cable to reach the reverse light mount.
Next, take a good look at the plastic connector. You'll see that part of it can be removed - go ahead and do so with a small blade or flathead screwdriver.
This will get you access inside the connector.
With a pin/nail press down the white plastic tabs
and pull out the yellow and black wires. Put the plastic connector aside, you won't need it again for this but if you ever install the proper fog light you will need it!
Next, take the reverse light connector and remove the plastic centre pin.
It's halfway out in this photo to demonstrate the removal.
This one is a little more tricky as the pins are on their side, meaning you'll need to get that pin/nail inside the connector to lift the plastic tabs out of the way. Unfortunately I couldn't get a picture as it's such a small space but take your time and look at it - and you'll see how they are held in place.
Once you've got the brown and black wires out, replace them with the yellow and black ones from the fog light connection.
Now you've got your fog light connected to the reverse light connector.
Simply apply a red bulb
and away you go. If you haven't got a red one, you can always paint the original one red!
Tape off the now loose reverse light wires - don't want any short circuits - and tape them onto the wiring loom so they won't get in the way.
Insert your new fog light into it's home in the reverse light, and connect everything up.
Test it all out, and then it's simply a matter of tidying up the wiring (i.e. retaping the loom) and replacing the plastics inside. The plastics are a little tricky to fit due to lining them up, but once they're in place they will require firm pressure to reattach all the pins.
Don't forget the two screws by the handles, and that's a job well done.
2006 FK3? Then no, as you will currently have your fog light in the centre cluster and will need to ensure that it is replaced (either via the method in this guide or with the updated fog light housing) to remain road-legal.Would it be a straight swap as in undo the bolts then do them up again if I was to change my rear light centre cluster on my fk3 to the type r fn2 rear light cluster?
Almost.right after reading this thread numerous times can anyone confirm what i think is right.......
once the rear panel is fitted the reverse lights are a straight fit with no mods needed. the pre-facelift has brake and side lights in the indicator units and the units next to the center panel as mine does. once the face-lift fog/side units are fitted the existing brake/side connector and bulb will fit if a bit is shaved off the connector allowing it to fit in the back of the light unit (i did this with the Type R indicator units as well). then we have the fog light which will need to be extended to reach its new location and a new bulb holder fitted so it can fit the facelift unit. so we end up with 4 brake lights, 4 side lights, 2 reverse lights and 1 fog light and a nice grey/silver rear panel.....
right or wrong?
this sounds like what i did with the indicator unitsWhen I did mine, the brake light bulb will go into the new brake/fog lamp, u just have to remove a tiny bit around where the bulb holder goes into the lamp, or a tiny bit off the holder itself, so that gets u up and running while u decide what to do about the fog.
It was probably my guide you followed for the indicators. In that situation, the hole was large enough but the tab slots were incorrect.when i fitted my clear indicator units to get the bulb holder to fit i just trimmed part of the holder off so the tabs fit in the smaller space and held it in place (some cut the actual unit itself so the tabs would fit). with these fog/side light units could i do the same or is the hole size the issue which wont allow fitment of the dual bulb? Ive just bought Horizon Cree LED's which are great so if they wont fit then im a bit put off changing the panel tbh.
There's the guy I was thinking of... so that's an option for you (option 1 that I mentioned earlier).this sounds like what i did with the indicator units
yeah it was your guide i followed, thanks but instead i cut the tabs on the holder.It was probably my guide you followed for the indicators. In that situation, the hole was large enough but the tab slots were incorrect.
In this case, the hole isn't large enough to allow a dual filament bulb for the side/brake light. You would have to enlarge the hole and then cut new tab slots for it to fit. If you're happy to do that then go for it! Someone else already did I think... but I wasn't keen to cut the hole any larger on mine.
Not quite sure what you mean about the CREE LEDs, are they dual-purpose side/brake lights? Looking at the Horizon website I can only see single-purpose bulbs.
yeah it was your guide i followed, thanks but instead i cut the tabs on the holder.
the Horizon dual Cree i have fitted is this -
T20 - 7443/3157 : T20/7443 - CREE LED 16W
im a bit put off now tbh as i would like the Type R look with the existing brake/tail/reverse set up i currently have....
i have these on my car already and they are dual bulbs. below is taken from the Horizon website -
Below are the key features of this T20/7443 CREE LED bulb: - Colour Options – available in Pure Xenon White, Red & Amber. OEM Fitment – designed to fit just as factory bulbs, no cutting or splicing any wiring looms. Response Time - quicker ON/OFF response compared to traditional bulbs and LEDs. Power & Efficiency – LED power of 16W along with energy efficiency savings, to be used with 12V applications. Lifespan – 50,000 hours, thanks to the high quality USA imported CREE chips. Multi Fitment – can be used for Brake, Fog, Indicator and Reverse lights, basically anything with a T20/7443 socket! Dual Filament - two function bulb e.g. Brake Light & Side/Tail Light. CANBUS Friendly* – designed to work with majority of CANBUS related vehicles - See more at: T20 - 7443/3157 : T20/7443 - CREE LED 16W
so if the bulb will fit the hole in the unit will the bulb holder fit the housing then do you think? maybe trim a bit of the tabs like on the indicator units... this is what im hoping for anyway! it will make things much easier to do.Ah brill! I was trying to judge from the connector as the description doesn't work properly on my phone.
So with that in mind it would be worth trying to get the diameter of the bulb - it might well fit without any issue.