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Discussion Starter #1
Im thinking of doing this when I fit my RRC,

Has any body done this mod to an NA car with standard injectors?

What do you guys think?

DIY Air Assist Valve Delete for Upgraded Injectors

DIY...replace ** Intake Air Bypass Control Thermal Valve with a plug cause it broke - Club RSX Message Board

DIY: Idle Air Assist Valve Delete

Idle Air Assist Delete Kit

"Applications: All K-series engines

The K-Tuned Idle Air Assist Delete Kit will help clean up the overall look of any K-series engine by removing the ugly and unnecessary Idle Air Assist valve from the engine. This valve is typically mounted on the rad inlet or intake manifold depending on what engine you have. It has a hose running from the top of the valve to the center of the intake manifold and a second hose from the valve to the intake piping. The air assist valve was designed to raise the idle during a cold start up to increase engine warm up speed. Our testing has proved to us that this sensor can be deleted because a properly functioning IACV (Idle Air Control Valve) already does the same job. RSX, TSX, 8TH Gen Civic and EP3 owners will appreciate this delete kit even more because the Air Assist Valve always seems to get in the way when installing an upgraded fuel rail. Included in the delete kit is a plug for the intake manifold port and a plug for the coolant port on the rad inlet or intake manifold."

From what I have read the thermostatic valve is controled by the coolant temp, so when you start the car cold it is open and allow air from the intake to be pulled into the chambers through the injectors to make the fuel slightly leaner as the CAT is still cold and will not filter the unburnt fuel properly.
Although a lot of the forums seem to suggest that it also controls idle speed I believe this to be incorrect and it simply makes the fuel mix slightly leaner whilst the car in running up to temp (Its seems it does partly control idle speed, but when removed the IACV takes over.

The main reasons to delete this seems to be, to make it easier to fit an uprated fuel rail, to improve cold idle when running aftermarket injectors which are not the same length as OEM and do not have the breathing hole, and finally from a cosmetic point of view.

I will be fitting a new fuel rail and I do think It looks a lot better without this valve and hosing, I may be upgrading my injectors in the future too.
 

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I am doing it!!

Already had the RRC welded for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I am doing it!!

Already had the RRC welded for it.
Well at least I won't be alone :D
I have ordered a plug rather than welding just in case :p
 

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I would do it for looks alone and expect no difference or benefit . I have crimped that hose before and noticed no difference to engine running.

On the same note I have been in cars with drainpipe injectors and the system plumbed in and running 100%.

Why larger injectors Tom?
 

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Well at least I won't be alone :D
I have ordered a plug rather than welding just in case :p

To late for me!!




I did it for larger injectors (RDX 410cc now but maybe changing for ID725) and also for look. Cleanning the engine bay a bit.!

Lets see what happens!:police:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I would do it for looks alone and expect no difference or benefit . I have crimped that hose before and noticed no difference to engine running.

On the same note I have been in cars with drainpipe injectors and the system plumbed in and running 100%.

Why larger injectors Tom?
The main reason for doing the mod was always cosmetics, but after reading up I thought there may be some benefit.
I may be going FI in the future or K24 bottom end not decided yet.





To late for me!!




I did it for larger injectors (RDX 410cc now but maybe changing for ID725) and also for look. Cleanning the engine bay a bit.!

Lets see what happens!:police:
Clean engine bay FTW, can barely see where yours is plugged just looks like a hole on my phone. :p

This is my set up but the spark cover will be yellow when I get a chance to paint it,

uploadfromtaptalk1363890078347.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #8

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Discussion Starter #10
What about throttle/brakes?

Surely flashpro can sort that!
I'm sure someone could frig something to get most of the car working on an Xbox controller lol
 

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Discussion Starter #13
:D

Back on topic, interested to see the results and write up if you do this.

I will be taking a week off work after the easter bank holiday to do all of my mods, I will be starting on the bank holiday Friday.

I will try to do a daily diary will lots of pictures of what im up to.




I did it on the ep3, just made it smell richer on a cold start.
I'm thinking this is what I will achieve too, especially after fitting the exhaust manifold. Why run the car leaner whilst the cat warms up when the cat is in the shed? :p
 

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Cos it gets the engine up to temp and all the pistons and rings etc seated quicker


Tom- Why the future injector change? Boost?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The main reason for doing the mod was always cosmetics, but after reading up I thought there may be some benefit.
I may be going FI in the future or K24 bottom end not decided yet.








Clean engine bay FTW, can barely see where yours is plugged just looks like a hole on my phone. :p

This is my set up but the spark cover will be yellow when I get a chance to paint it,

View attachment 86982
;)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I like the idea of going k24, 2.1-2l and sticking NA.
But I'm also tempted by FI, Turbo over supercharging in particular but I'm a long way off from that I won't be touching the injectors until I need to.
 
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