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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi.

Ingalls "Stiffy" Engine Torque Damper (Civic SI version) can be installed on Euro Civic Type-R 07'-09'.

Product page: 93038 - Stiffy ETD, 2006 Honda Civic SI - Ingalls Engineering Co., Inc.

Si installation DIY (can help): 06+ Civic SI Ingalls "Stiffy" Engine Torque Damper Install (LOADS of pics) - 8th Generation Honda Civic Forum

Chassis bracket mods are needed (see photo below):
- left corner cutting;
- part of Ingalls logo (sorry) should be weld.
Additional spacer washers must be add to install this bracket








Bracket mods:





 

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The Property Man
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wow thats expensive for a ETD...lovely product though..i'd love to get one...

suppose to help the car really well accelerating and through corners
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Nice ! How does the car feel now ?
And how about vibrations at idle for instant with A/C on ?
Now I use "soft" setup and I dont see any drive difference..
Idle vibration is very low.
 

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very nice. I had a spoon one on my EP3 and I liked.
Any noises from this ETD?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Any noises from this ETD?
I dont hear anything.. maybe because AEM, Milltek and local poor "highway" give loud noises.
 

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You can also limit engine movement by strengthening the upper and lower torque rods by filling the large bearings with some chunks of rubber and then pour some polyurethane in it to get a better seal.




There is another engine mount on the front of the engine that can be done the same way, although I left it alone. I get some vibration on startup and at idle, but as soon the car is moving the vibration is gone.
 

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I did this mainly to eliminate wheelhop when launching at the streetlegal dragraces.
Besides, I have added a different intake and manifold and the car has picked up additional torque.
 

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Do you have wheelhop in your CTR ? At what rpm are you lunching and what tires do you have ?
I've never experienced wheelhop with my CTR but I do have wheelhop with my Accord CL7 for instant ...
 

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With the strengthened torque rods there is no longer wheelhop. At the dragstrip where I do my runs traction can vary quite a lot from day to day, but I usually launch at 4000 rpm and feather the clutch, bad for the clutch, good for ET. I use the Goodyear F1 Asymmetric at 2.3-2.5 bar on lightweight 17 inch Rota wheels, usually a short dry burnout is all that is necessary. I lightened the car by 100 kg approximately by removing all stuff that wasn`t really necessary.
 

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For a start I have the "lightweight" version which is about 50 kg lighter than the luxury models. I have no airco, audio, alarm aswell as a few other creature comforts.
I took out the rear seat, rear seat belts and rear airbags (50 kg total), my AAS racing manifold gives a 10 kg weight savings, taking out the front passenger seat saves 27 kg, The 17 inch wheels and tyres save 18.5 kg, then I removed the complete OEM induction system including resonator, some heat shields, plastic panels, floormats, all 4 audio speakers, protrusion bars from the doors. All in all about 100 kg weightloss. It`s possible to lighten the car even further, but I didn`t want to go that far.
 

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Wow that's impressive ! Good job mate !
I'm wondering how heavy the bonnet is ? Does it worth buying a carbon one ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)

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Wow that's impressive ! Good job mate !
I'm wondering how heavy the bonnet is ? Does it worth buying a carbon one ?
The bonnet is fairly light, the price outlay for a carbon one is not justified imo. You can remove more weight by switching to a pair of lightweight bucket seats with the same amount of money.
 

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Non taken. Judging from your attachment your car has had its share of mods aswell.
 
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