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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
HI Peeps

As most of know I have a pretty much sorted Stage 1 set up on my FN2, Tegiwa airbox with filter and scoops,Tegiwa Exhaust manifold, FD2 sized Throttlebody, RRC cams and inlet manifold.


The next step for me as I see it is Toda A3 cams, Springs,seats and Honda retainers , an increase in CR with the likes of a Spoon/TODA/Cosworth head gasket and a CAT back system

A few questions that I have been considering on the back of a few people

Do I need an Exhaust Cam gear to run A3 spec cams

Are there any other cams that I can run without major issue/stress to the valve train that would give me the performance gain im after

or should i just charge the bastid and live with the haters :D

Stephen
 

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Drop in cams from Kelford are getting rave reviews in the States if you dont want to build the head.

Cams gears are not required unless you buy cams with a wacky centerline or want to super fine tune the powerband.

I would suggest a single exit exhaust and some Kelford A cams for a nice bump in N/A power at lower cost.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
TBH you are one of 2 people I wanted to hear from and it is appreciated.

I do love the NA feel of my car, I have been in a rotrexd k20 and to be I don't think its useful to my requirements.

What valvetrain in your own eyes would be useful without a regualr interval


stephen :)
 

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TBH you are one of 2 people I wanted to hear from and it is appreciated.

I do love the NA feel of my car, I have been in a rotrexd k20 and to be I don't think its useful to my requirements.

What valvetrain in your own eyes would be useful without a regualr interval


stephen :)
Thats very kind of you!

For worry free motoring on stage 2 cams - oem steel retainers plus the recommended spring of the camshaft vendor is ideal.

Skinny head gaskets are a good idea if your going with a JDM brand as they are all designed around the DC5 or FD2 which have 11.5 and 11.7 CR respectively.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Let me put it to you a different way:)

to make a genuine 250 BHP at the fly on most dynos, with my exhaust and intake what cams and valvetrain would you recomend :)
 

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your probably aware, Toda A3 cams + valve springs + labour =£2k+. this was my next step to get near 260bhp and the powerful NA build i was after. bang for your buck meant charger won me over. maybe some prayoonto's or kelford as already suggested may be good choice
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks Chris, I do think some Dynos are optimistic hence my statement,

TBH cost is not an issue, what is important however is not to detract from the day to day drive ablity of the car, Its my day to day car with occasionaly track usage, shed load of torque are no use of it means shredding tyres out of corners etc,

6k rebuilds of drivetrain are no use either though

\Stephen
 

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if money's not an issue then go for the A3's, i did a lot of research on them throughout forums and sites worldwide. they give great gains and you know your getting top quality. better gains than any other cam imo
 

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Why dont you just charge it? Cheaper, easier. Still feels like a Type R to me.
 

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I can't say I'd recommend Skunk2 after the recent stories but I've not had any issues (touches every bit of wood in the house) and I'm a whisker short of 250 on my setup.

Or would you class my figures as optimistic? :lol:

I can't say I've heard of Kelford but I've not researched any more cams if I'm honest.

Toda A3s are my next step, but not for a long while.

I did want the Mugen gasket as well but was talked out of it under the reasoning that on pump fuel I wouldn't see any reasonable gains.

I agree with the notion of wanting to stay NA. I much prefer it if I'm honest.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
If i remember from Pauls build the head needs to be out of the car so its a fair few hours labour, id imagine 6+ hours including a clean up of ports etc to make it worth your while+ tuning
 

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I had the head off because I was getting the Skunk2 springs fitted.

Not worth fitting as in a couple of ponies, if any at all.
 

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afaik, the whole engine needs to be removed from the engine bay, or at least moved to be able to fit the A3's and springs. this is why the labour costs more than the cams lol
 

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afaik, the whole engine needs to be removed from the engine bay, or at least moved to be able to fit the A3's and springs. this is why the labour costs more than the cams lol
Engine doesnt need to come out. Andy did it without doing so and some tuning companies are happy to do it this way also.
 
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