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Discussion Starter #1
I have the k20a2 engine which I have had remapped with a tegiwa m modified induction and a 2.5" free flowing catback exhaust. I do not want to run a decat and therefore will probably limit myself to any further performance gains. The question I have is are there any further performance mods worth doing? I'm tempted by the RBC intake manifold, some say there is no point if you're not changing the exhaust manifold, others say it's worth it on it's on for top end gains. Other than that I cannot think of anything else.
Cams? Probably not worth the outlay.
Lightweight crank pulley? Don't think I'd risk it.
Lighter flywheel? Cost of opening up the gearbox.
Final drive? As above.
Lsd? As above.

Then again I could do the last three in one hit :laugh2:

Anything I haven't considered or any opinion about the rbc welcome?
 

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I know it's forced but mines still running standard manifold and system with a sports cat, 330 bhp. So I would think the potential for further gains are there.

I would if I was still NA would work on parasitic drag, so a lightened flywheel will help there (not that much to get fitted if you find a good independent like Honda HQ in Cannock), and the oil pump balance shaft delete is good (if yours has them).
Be careful with a lightened crank pulley, make sure it is dampened or you run the risk of crank bearing/shell damage. There are some dampened and lightened ones out there, have you looked at other Honda crank pulleys for size and weight. An dampened underdirve pulley will help with gains.

An LSD will make the car handle better and more fun when off the line and islands. especially if you are changing the final drive for better acceleration. You may as well get this done when you do the flywheel as its a gearbox out and split.

You could get a manifold made with a sports cat in it or have a race manifold and a cat welded into the system as close to the manifold as possible. getting the gasses out quicker and in the right pattern is key.

Cams I would change when you are looking for power to get to around the 250+ or close to it or above.

An inlet manifold will help get the gasses in quicker, but if the exhaust manifold is restrictive then it will only be so effective on how fast you can get the gases out. I think most would say start here with a lightweight flywheel & LSD.

Personally, all the above with fitting would come to around the same or more than a second hand boosted kit ;-). lol (Just sayin)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The place where I had my custom b pipe made do manifold and sports cat. Hmmm, might get it priced up.
Like this vid of a final drive swap >:)

 

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Discussion Starter #4
The car has been running with my teg m / big filter velocity stack mash up for a few days now, today I could really notice it, especially above 5k. Even with the oem cat in place there are gains to be had. Pretty sure I'll get an RBC and I'm considering a stainless 4-1 with a bit more flow and a couple of kilos lighter. I suppose I could stick a 200 cell cat in too. Reckon if I could get 225 to 230 peak bhp and 160 lbft with oem cat it would be pretty much where I'd want it. Getting close to 200 bhp per tonne too.
Been looking into 16 inch rims too.
 

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Manifold, 200 cat and flywheel and I think you'll be happy then. + an LSD and then it will be on point :)
 
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I’d look at the inlet manifold runner length to decide where I want the power band. That’s why I went with the RRC on mine.

Cams if you can get drop in cams for a good price they are worth doing. My TDI ones were cheap and made a great difference.

I had the same dilemma as you. As I want to run a cat, I went with a full decat manifold and then had a cat installed under the drivers seat to get the best of both worlds (still has a bottle neck but it’s in a 3’ exhaust. )

When I installed my LSD I fitted new clutch and lightend flywheel which made the car much more responsive. If I had know at the time I would have changed the final drive too.

As you have a K20a you don’t have balanced shafts to worry about. I’d look at an updated oil pump so you can rev slightly higher, maybe valve springs too.

I’d also have a look at injectors too. The RDX ones made a difference to my car


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1) hondata ecu program
2) Cold air Intake (Injen) for hot climates without rain, - group-m intake for places with a lot of rain.
3) Toda exhaust manifold with a more free cat installed to it (200 cpi)
4) RBC.
5) Toda cams and valve springs
6) More than 60' free exhaust.


With the above setting you have 250 - 260 horsepower plus a very good abd usefull power window with a lot of torgue and top power.

G.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Tempted to chuck a 200 cell japspeed cat in, surely it's got to gain on oem.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The exhaust run is so much better on the ep3.
Been thinking of an M2 inlet manifold, good price and you don't need to trim the car :laugh2:
It comes as 70mm throttle body opening as standard, plus you don't need an adapter to fit the throttle body. Will speak to my tuner to see what he reckons about it.
I think my exhaust is getting louder, it's also crackling on the up shift sometimes.
@Bones126 it's interesting you mention being on the oem exhaust manifold, I've often read that changing the inlet manifold is pointless unless you are changing the header. Seems that's not so!
 

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I think to get the full benefit you need to change the header too, but a different inlet manifold will change the characteristics of the power deliver regardless and you should get some gains. Remember mines is being forced through, so has a helping hand.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Understand, but I think the rbc, skunk2 or M2 will be better than the oem prb, even without the header.
I have a 7.25 inch velocity stack incorporated into my teg m intake, which reduces down to 3 inches or 76mm. If I get a 70mm TB into a ported rbc or standard M2 then the flow will be good. The velocity stack has already made the car a bit wilder at higher rpm :laugh2:
 

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From recently reading up on all of the intake manifold threads as much as I could, given how old they are, the S2 and RRC (modded for EP3) were the best, but I'd find it hard to justify over a ported RBC :D
 

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Discussion Starter #14
IF I get the rbc I'll buy an unmodified one and cut it myself, but I'll need a k tuned tb adapter because it has a pop out bit to switch between oem and 70mm opening, I'd need a thermal gasket, some pipes and another rbc gasket. It adds up :smile3:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I still need rid of this


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Doesn't the rrc lack the iacv "hole" required for the ep3? I'd like the rrc but can't find much on it being modified for the k20a2 :frown2:
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
I am making enquiries :wink3:

How come it's no longer any good for an fn2?
 
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