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I have been reading the following really useful post on the lcd display intermittent problem and am looking to re-solder the rear of it:

civinfo.com/forum/4195978-post1.html


The instructions briefly say:

1. Remove the triangle over the radio, unscrew the 2 screws beneath the screen.
2. Remove the speedometer up visor.
3. Take out the speedometer itself.
4. Take out the radio screen.



Could someone go into more detail here please, as I have never removed part of the dash before and really don't want to break anything!


Thanks
 

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It really is that easy in steps, be careful lifting the panel above the radio as damaging the edges is easy.


The biggest risk you have is with pulling the screens out, they are on what I would call sprung V clips. Make sure you support the screen near these points or if you force on the wrong angle you can fracture the units Perspex front.


I would look at ebay screens to get a idea of the fixing points.
 

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Bugger. Just finished doing my display about 10min ago and already put everything back together otherwise I would have posted pics.


I went about it in this order.

1. I removed the small cowl/cover on top of the speedometer display. It has 3 clips, two on each corner in front and one in the centre in the rear. They clip in vertically so you just have to pull it straight up. This cover came out quite easily on my car.

2. I removed the centre dash cover on top of the dash that sits in front of the display and above the hazard light button. This cover uses the same type clips as the small cover on top of speedo. There are 2 clips in the back right at the display which were a bit tricky to unclip because I thought they were tabs that hooked in horizontally underneath the display but they are not so I ended up damaging the one and tearing the other clean off. (Super Glue sorted them both out luckily). Take care not to scratch the perspex faces on the speedo and info display when you remove this cover though because it scratches really easy, I got off lucky and next time I'll probably rather mask it off with insulation tape before I remove the cover.

3. Unclip the speedometer display. This also has 3 of the same style clips (2 on the corners and 1 in the centre, broke the one in the centre off too on the speedo) but these clip in horizontally so you have to pull it straight out towards you. I didn't even take it out completely, just got it loose and out of the dash but left the plug in.

4. Remove the 2 Phillips/star screws underneath the info display holding it. You can't miss them. Once loose I grabbed the display with my hand palm up in the gap and tugged it. The steering wheel side of the display came loose fairly easy but I had lots of fun getting the other side loose. This also uses the same type of clip as everything else and also unclips horizontally so jou have to pull it straight back towards you. Once loose there is a green connector on the back and you just have to push the clip on it and disconnect it then the whole info display can come out.

5. Switch on your soldering iron and boil the kettle/grab a beer.

6. Flip info display upside down and remove the white back cover, this has clips right around but was quick and easy because you can actually see what is holding where.

7. With the back cover off you will see a row of pins running down the length of the board and these are what's causing the problem. I had about 8 pins visibly loose where the soldering cracked. I skipped boiling the kettle or grabbing a beer and had a bit of the shakes so didn't resolder all my pins. After soldering reverse the steps in the same order and you should be good to go

I forgot to put the white cover on the back of the display back and only realised it after the display and speedo were back in so had to take them out again.

I used 2 flat screw drivers wrapped in insulation tape to pry open the dash covers. And you'll need a soldering iron with a fairly small tip since those pins are very close to each other and also thin soldering wire because it will be real easy to solder more than 1 pin together with a big blob of solder. Preferably you'll also need some solder wick or a solder sucker in case you need to remove solder. I didn't have a sucker or wick hence the shakes. I can't believe Honda thought those pins had enough solder on. I was hoping it would be possible to just melt an resolder the existing solder on there but it just disappeared in a puff of smoke.

Good luck and let us know how it worked out





Sent from my ALE-L02 using Tapatalk
 

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Bugger. Just finished doing my display about 10min ago and already put everything back together otherwise I would have posted pics.


I went about it in this order.

1. I removed the small cowl/cover on top of the speedometer display. It has 3 clips, two on each corner in front and one in the centre in the rear. They clip in vertically so you just have to pull it straight up. This cover came out quite easily on my car.

2. I removed the centre dash cover on top of the dash that sits in front of the display and above the hazard light button. This cover uses the same type clips as the small cover on top of speedo. There are 2 clips in the back right at the display which were a bit tricky to unclip because I thought they were tabs that hooked in horizontally underneath the display but they are not so I ended up damaging the one and tearing the other clean off. (Super Glue sorted them both out luckily). Take care not to scratch the perspex faces on the speedo and info display when you remove this cover though because it scratches really easy, I got off lucky and next time I'll probably rather mask it off with insulation tape before I remove the cover.

3. Unclip the speedometer display. This also has 3 of the same style clips (2 on the corners and 1 in the centre, broke the one in the centre off too on the speedo) but these clip in horizontally so you have to pull it straight out towards you. I didn't even take it out completely, just got it loose and out of the dash but left the plug in.

4. Remove the 2 Phillips/star screws underneath the info display holding it. You can't miss them. Once loose I grabbed the display with my hand palm up in the gap and tugged it. The steering wheel side of the display came loose fairly easy but I had lots of fun getting the other side loose. This also uses the same type of clip as everything else and also unclips horizontally so jou have to pull it straight back towards you. Once loose there is a green connector on the back and you just have to push the clip on it and disconnect it then the whole info display can come out.

5. Switch on your soldering iron and boil the kettle/grab a beer.

6. Flip info display upside down and remove the white back cover, this has clips right around but was quick and easy because you can actually see what is holding where.

7. With the back cover off you will see a row of pins running down the length of the board and these are what's causing the problem. I had about 8 pins visibly loose where the soldering cracked. I skipped boiling the kettle or grabbing a beer and had a bit of the shakes so didn't resolder all my pins. After soldering reverse the steps in the same order and you should be good to go

I forgot to put the white cover on the back of the display back and only realised it after the display and speedo were back in so had to take them out again.

I used 2 flat screw drivers wrapped in insulation tape to pry open the dash covers. And you'll need a soldering iron with a fairly small tip since those pins are very close to each other and also thin soldering wire because it will be real easy to solder more than 1 pin together with a big blob of solder. Preferably you'll also need some solder wick or a solder sucker in case you need to remove solder. I didn't have a sucker or wick hence the shakes. I can't believe Honda thought those pins had enough solder on. I was hoping it would be possible to just melt an resolder the existing solder on there but it just disappeared in a puff of smoke.

Good luck and let us know how it worked out





Sent from my ALE-L02 using Tapatalk
been reading all your posts and lol for this one - I did the soldering thing 4 times already in 2 years. The display started acting up again. To be honest though, my soldering skills suck even though we learnt how to solder back in school. Did you use flux though, I am thinking there must be something wrong with my soldering because the display is ok for a few weeks or months and then the damn aircon sign or something does not display. A good hard klap on the dash works but only for a little while
 

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I soldered mine and it's been fine so far (touch wood). You need to prime the solder tip with solder and then place it on the pins heating the whole thing up then feed some solder into the existing joint.

Mine had hardly any on there from factory, no wonder they failed. Use good solder to
 

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been reading all your posts and lol for this one - I did the soldering thing 4 times already in 2 years. The display started acting up again. To be honest though, my soldering skills suck even though we learnt how to solder back in school. Did you use flux though, I am thinking there must be something wrong with my soldering because the display is ok for a few weeks or months and then the damn aircon sign or something does not display. A good hard klap on the dash works but only for a little while
My display started acting up again January but not bad enough to justify opening the dash again. The solder I used is what we use on copiers/printers and it does have some flux in it, but this time around if I do decide to do it again I'm going to strip it out and see if I can find a cell repair shop with a hot air/solder station that can do it for me or let me use their station quickly so I can remove all the solder and maybe bend the pins and use solder paste on it. Not sure if it's the pins I soldered or the ones I didn't that are coming loose again.

Sent from my WAS-LX1 using Tapatalk
 

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I soldered mine and it's been fine so far (touch wood). You need to prime the solder tip with solder and then place it on the pins heating the whole thing up then feed some solder into the existing joint.

Mine had hardly any on there from factory, no wonder they failed. Use good solder to
I got one those cheap soldering irons and cheap solder as well - it just creates big blobs and dry joints. I am going to try with flux and see or go to one of the Pakistani cell shops and hopefully they will do a better job than I did. I tried to 1st melt some solder to the tip however I just end up with small solder blobs and I have been soldering on and off for 20 years now but my soldering skills are still bad but now I am convinced it is the cheap soldering/solder/no flux combination that gives me bad joints. I even tried using 2 way tape over the strip of joints to help keep things it in place but after 5 minutes is acts up. I think I will start over next time sucking up the old solder and getting some good quality equipment
 

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Agree, rubbish iron or worn out tip. Mine isn't expensive just a hobby 40w I think. But tips needs to be kept clean and changed when needed. I don't solder often either, but with poor equipment makes it so much harder
 
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