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Discussion Starter #1
Think of purchasing a 2.2i-ctdi with 180k miles. I am just concerned at the mileage and how much longer it will last. It comes with a full service history and bodywork and interior are excellent it is for sale at £1000 on an 09 plate. Any help or advice appreciated. I am new to hondas but have owned jdm nissans and toyotas in the past. Many thanks in advance.
 

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Welcome to :civinfo:

Hmmm, the 2.2 will run well past 180k miles without costing a fortune but what's it's history been like? Were the majority of the miles put on the highway or around town?

How does it's MOT history look?

It's good to hear that it's got FSH and that's it's straight, so it seems like it's been cared for.

Mind you at just £1k you aren't going to loose much if it only lasts you a year and it's likely to keep trucking for many more years.

How is the clutch? Unfortunately they're weak on the 2.2 Civic and if it's original then you'll be looking at £700+ for a clutch/flywheel fitted.

Is there any rust at the front of the roof?

Are the door handles (external) all secure? - they're often prone to coming loose.

Good luck and let us know how you get on.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you all for the welcome. The car has done mainly motorway miles and past mot history is mainly worn tyres and a front shock absorber plus the usual bulbs out and low parking brake nothing major.
 

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the 2.2 is great engine
mine had over 185 000 miles on it when I got my 9g 1.6 and the engine was as strong as it was when I bought it 9 years earlier and still never used a drop of oil
anything with high millage on could be ready to have parts replaced but ill say 1 thing I was more confident travelling anywhere in my high millage civic than friends low millage polished show cars
 

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1k for a 2.2 is a bargain. As long as the engine sounds sweet, it'll be fine.
 

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The clutch would be my biggest concern. You need to drive it up a long hill in a high gear around 2000rpm and hoof it to check for slippage... don't let anyone tell you other ways to check it!
 

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the engine should be fine - my concern would be the other bits of the car around - a lot have been mentioned but things I would check having owned include - clutch, rusty roof, door handles, creaking windscreen mounts and cowl, radio going pop, ABS sensors, squeeky clicky clutch pedal, squeeling window seals, EGR valve, bonnet paint chips, headlight alignment and self levelling etc.
 

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What to look out for: Warm engine when you arrive to buy it.

Also make sure the vents aren't on recirc and put them on full blast and coming out the front vents into your face, when stopped idling sniff out for diesel smell, the common and expensive job is a split exhaust manifold. Usually occurs around 100,000 miles though. Make sure the turbo pulls well on boost and you don't hear any whooshing or loud vacuum sounds.

Also if you can remove the engine beauty cover and inspect the injectors any black sludge around them it needs at least injector seals. If the owner doesn't want the cover removing, you can smell raw diesel usually hard to ignore when it's running and a chugging noise.

Blue smoke when it first starts up on cold could be bad turbo seals or valve stems. Any white smoke and it might have a sticking injector or a dead glowplug.

Rev the engine and hold it at 1500RPM's, listen out for any slapping / metal clunking noises coming from the right side of the engine (check this when cold and hot after a test drive.) They're timing chain driven and can suffer from timing chain issues.

If you don't know much about cars just pay a mechanic (preferably one that knows their Honda's) an hour or two labour to inspect it for you.

Diesel's aren't vehicles to be buying blind. And models with higher mileage and low value are usually going because a problem has arisen with it.

Pull the dipstick up whilst it's running and look for blowby out the dipstick and oil cap. YouTube diesel blowby to see how to check.

Also try to take it on a good test drive where you can at least get it up to 50MPH. I've had cars that drive mint around town but once on the motorway they vibrate and steering wheel shakes. And wheel bearings only make noise above 40mph on some of my vehicles.

And it's very cheap, even for a 2009 with 180K miles. Probably has something wrong with it.
 

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If it's got a year MOT and it drives well on the test drive can't go much wrong for £1k. Let's say you drive it for a year till MOT ends and scrap it at the end for £200, you get £66 a month of motoring cost for the car only, it's like a very cheap lease. And if it keeps going and you pass another year MOT without expensive repairs your cost would go down even further. Just don't get attached to the car and splash out on expensive repair bills. Go with the mindset that you've spent £1000 for 180k miles car and you're running it to the ground, the more months you get out of it before scrapping the lower your monthly motoring cost would be. You can always claim your insurance and tax back after scrapping it.
 

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If it's got a year MOT and it drives well on the test drive can't go much wrong for £1k. Let's say you drive it for a year till MOT ends and scrap it at the end for £200, you get £66 a month of motoring cost for the car only, it's like a very cheap lease. And if it keeps going and you pass another year MOT without expensive repairs your cost would go down even further. Just don't get attached to the car and splash out on expensive repair bills. Go with the mindset that you've spent £1000 for 180k miles car and you're running it to the ground, the more months you get out of it before scrapping the lower your monthly motoring cost would be. You can always claim your insurance and tax back after scrapping it.
MOT isn't worth the paper it's written on. You'll be amazed how many vehicles are floating around the roads on sure pass MOT's. I can get them done for as little as £40. Some charge £120 for a sure pass all about what & who you know in the trade.

My advice for spotting obvious sure pass vehicles is check the windscreen for chips and cracks. Almost every legitimate MOT garage will write down all chips and cracks in the drivers vision area. Also tyres low on tread you can check this by the wear band marks if they're close to the bands it should be mentioned on the MOT, or the seller has swapped the wheels seen that one before. All my vehicles passed this way for decats etc have "play in suspension" or "oil leak engine sump" and always get failed prior to pass. So it'd fail on like a light, then they'll pass it throw me the pass certificate and I'll get out the area pronto. As VOSA is on to them kind of places. VOSA can & will stop you ask if you've just had an MOT then take your car off you, take it into the MOT station and inspect it themselves. If it shouldn't pass the MOT guy is looking at a jail custodial. VOSA are really on to sure passes now, and examiners know this and it's a custodial so very hard to find a place now. But of course car dealers have friends in the industry that'll pass them for extra fee on each car. Do the maths it's lucrative to do for a car dealer.
 
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