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Premium Member
2007 FK2 1.8
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229 Posts
Discussion Starter · #181 ·
My suspension order came from autodoc today
9 days from placement to delivery, positive experience (order with app for -10% discount)

I didn't go the lowering route in the end. Mostly due to the neighbourhood

All four springs (KYB), the spring seats (Vauxhall ones) and the drop links (Meyle) are ebay, everything else is AD

Hand tool Wood Office supplies Font Tool


Total spent £444, including arb bushes which went in last week - already a big improvement

If you don't hear from me, the spring compressors are from Halfords 😬

Just something I'm not 100% on before I get to work, do I only hand tighten all of the following before the car's weight is on the shock/spring:
  • rear top nut
  • rear bottom bolt
  • front top nut (in the middle of the top mount)
  • front 3 nuts which secure top mount to chassis
  • front 2 bottom bolts attaching strut to knuckle

Or is it important to tighten some of the above to torque spec before it goes under full load and settles?
 

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524 Posts
My suspension order came from autodoc today
9 days from placement to delivery, positive experience (order with app for -10% discount)

I didn't go the lowering route in the end. Mostly due to the neighbourhood

All four springs (KYB), the spring seats (Vauxhall ones) and the drop links (Meyle) are ebay, everything else is AD

View attachment 320808

Total spent £444, including arb bushes which went in last week - already a big improvement

If you don't hear from me, the spring compressors are from Halfords 😬

Just something I'm not 100% on before I get to work, do I only hand tighten all of the following before the car's weight is on the shock/spring:
  • rear top nut
  • rear bottom bolt
  • front top nut (in the middle of the top mount)
  • front 3 nuts which secure top mount to chassis
  • front 2 bottom bolts attaching strut to knuckle

Or is it important to tighten some of the above to torque spec before it goes under full load and settles?
I would sensibly tighten using a spanner or ratchet, put under load and then torque up.

The lower front mounting bolts (19mm socket) can be a pain to loosen if they've not been done in a while; breaker bar should do it or an impact wrench if you have one.
 

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Premium Member
2007 FK2 1.8
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229 Posts
Discussion Starter · #183 ·
The lower front mounting bolts (19mm socket) can be a pain to loosen if they've not been done in a while; breaker bar should do it or an impact wrench if you have one.
I've got a 45cm long torque wrench which has meant I haven't needed to buy a breaker bar yet. This could be the time though. WD40'd the offending nuts and bolts today so with a bit of luck they'll come off
 

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I've got a 45cm long torque wrench which has meant I haven't needed to buy a breaker bar yet. This could be the time though. WD40'd the offending nuts and bolts today so with a bit of luck they'll come off
Definitely worth buying, can get them for a few quid plus it would save you busting up your torque wrench when you need to bounce up and down on it. WD40 is OK but it's not a penetrant (unless you are using the WD40 Rust Penetrant version); PlusGas works great. Always good to have a can of this when taking apart old suspension parts.
 

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Alabaster civic 08 Type R
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1,568 Posts
The lower strut bolts will be tight but should ease of with being a fine thread. Release spray is your friend, do it a day or so before so has time to penetrate, but they should release either way, beaker bar, you would have to go at it with 4ft poles shear one off them. But these definitely require torquing correctly as these are under load. These require torquing up when being refitted as you need to put wheels on to drop the car to let the struts find their resting under load then torque the top mount bolts.
 

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2007 FK2 1.8
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Discussion Starter · #186 ·
Definitely worth buying, can get them for a few quid plus it would save you busting up your torque wrench when you need to bounce up and down on it. WD40 is OK but it's not a penetrant (unless you are using the WD40 Rust Penetrant version); PlusGas works great. Always good to have a can of this when taking apart old suspension parts.
Fair point, I don't want to damage my torque wrench. Gonna pick up a 60cm breaker bar from screwfix

Interestingly regular WD40 turns out to be respectable as a penetrant and outperforms some dedicated commercial penetrating oils
 

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My suspension order came from autodoc today
9 days from placement to delivery, positive experience (order with app for -10% discount)

I didn't go the lowering route in the end. Mostly due to the neighbourhood

All four springs (KYB), the spring seats (Vauxhall ones) and the drop links (Meyle) are ebay, everything else is AD

View attachment 320808

Total spent £444, including arb bushes which went in last week - already a big improvement

If you don't hear from me, the spring compressors are from Halfords 😬

Just something I'm not 100% on before I get to work, do I only hand tighten all of the following before the car's weight is on the shock/spring:
  • rear top nut
  • rear bottom bolt
  • front top nut (in the middle of the top mount)
  • front 3 nuts which secure top mount to chassis
  • front 2 bottom bolts attaching strut to knuckle

Or is it important to tighten some of the above to torque spec before it goes under full load and settles?
I think mine cost about £600 but I got Tein lowering springs and a three leg spring compressor as the main difference.
 

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Fair point, I don't want to damage my torque wrench. Gonna pick up a 60cm breaker bar from screwfix

Interestingly regular WD40 turns out to be respectable as a penetrant and outperforms some dedicated commercial penetrating oils
Overnight WD40 has done the job for me in the past... I got the bottom bolts off my rear shocks no issue because of it.

I've got a blow torch to go nuclear if I get drop link issues but I'll keep spraying them and the 19mm strut bolts. Hopefully I'm attempting the fronts early next week. Famous last words...
 

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Fair point, I don't want to damage my torque wrench. Gonna pick up a 60cm breaker bar from screwfix

Interestingly regular WD40 turns out to be respectable as a penetrant and outperforms some dedicated commercial penetrating oils
Overnight WD40 has done the job for me in the past... I got the bottom bolts off my rear shocks no issue because of it.

I've got a blow torch to go nuclear if I get drop link issues but I'll keep spraying them and the 19mm strut bolts. Hopefully I'm attempting the fronts early next week. Famous last words...
I might be teaching you to suck eggs here but remember to support the hub on the fronts once the strut has been removed otherwise you risk popping apart your inner CV joint.

Support it with a jack just under the bell of the brake disc (a top tip from @Das).
 

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2007 FK2 1.8
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Discussion Starter · #190 ·
I might be teaching you to suck eggs here but remember to support the hub on the fronts once the strut has been removed otherwise you risk popping apart your inner CV joint.

Support it with a jack just under the bell of the brake disc (a top tip from @Das).
No it's all helpful, thanks for the tip

Where exactly should the jack go at the front though? It should actually be touching 6 O'Clock on the brake disc or under the lower control arm almost at the disc?
 

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I'm assuming just supporting the corner so the hub assembly doesn't drop when the 2 19mm bolts are removed. Guess anything other than the brake shield and the callipers would be fine as the point to hold it all up.

I've fitted a driveshaft a year ago so I've had the issue of trying to ram the shaft back into position, can lose a bit of gearbox oil which would be the main reason why you'd want to keep the hub supported!
 

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No it's all helpful, thanks for the tip

Where exactly should the jack go at the front though? It should actually be touching 6 O'Clock on the brake disc or under the lower control arm almost at the disc?
Wheel Automotive tire Tire Vehicle brake Locking hubs


I rested my jack where the red line is just under the hub.

I'm assuming just supporting the corner so the hub assembly doesn't drop when the 2 19mm bolts are removed. Guess anything other than the brake shield and the callipers would be fine as the point to hold it all up.

I've fitted a driveshaft a year ago so I've had the issue of trying to ram the shaft back into position, can lose a bit of gearbox oil which would be the main reason why you'd want to keep the hub supported!
Out of interest did you need to remove any circlips to do this job?
 

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Alabaster civic 08 Type R
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No it's all helpful, thanks for the tip

Where exactly should the jack go at the front though? It should actually be touching 6 O'Clock on the brake disc or under the lower control arm almost at the disc?
I just tied mine with rope to support it, I had the struts fully built so first time supported with my legs, second time I just tied it up with rope as it’s not that heavy to support. Anything will support it just as long it doesn’t drop to much.
 

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Are the torque settings knocking around anywhere? I'll have a proper search at some point...
I’m not sure, I used Haynes - if you can’t find them I’ll post them on here
 

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Yep, 110n/m for the wheel bolt, you finally getting them on.
Sigh, don't get me started!!

Was meant to tackle them on Friday but son had a Covid scare so couldn't commit to a full day on it.

Other car did get fixed earlier in the week so I have the back up to fall back on.

Will try on Tues and Wed but no guarantees. Need to play it safe and allow a full day on it as well as having the other car working so I can still actually get to work!

My Summer got put into a tailspin because of every issue possible! The only thing I seem to have accomplished is a full service in the Civic and the rear springs changed!
 

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Alabaster civic 08 Type R
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Sigh, don't get me started!!

Was meant to tackle them on Friday but son had a Covid scare so couldn't commit to a full day on it.

Other car did get fixed earlier in the week so I have the back up to fall back on.

Will try on Tues and Wed but no guarantees. Need to play it safe and allow a full day on it as well as having the other car working so I can still actually get to work!

My Summer got put into a tailspin because of every issue possible! The only thing I seem to have accomplished is a full service in the Civic and the rear springs changed!
Yeah, everything gets in the way. I was supposed to be treating my rear beam as it’s pretty rusty on 2week holiday, yeah that didn’t happen. Got lumbered in to decorating the bedroom for most off it and was knackered and ran out off days. Because you have them pre-built that will save time, everything go well you will have then done in no time.
 
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