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Yeah, everything gets in the way. I was supposed to be treating my rear beam as it’s pretty rusty on 2week holiday, yeah that didn’t happen. Got lumbered in to decorating the bedroom for most off it and was knackered and ran out off days. Because you have them pre-built that will save time, everything go well you will have then done in no time.
Yes... Building them indoors with good lighting has probably salvaged something as it's literally 6 bolts per side plus the wheel nuts. I've already cracked off the near side shock bolts recently due to replacing the driveshaft last year.

Might be lazy and try to slip a 15mm flexi head spanner into the top bolt gap, although I should really remove more of the plastic in case I drop one of the nuts!
 

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Alabaster civic 08 Type R
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careful, college hills honda is a US dealer so these values may not be UK spec.
Should be able to find what you want under one the these folders:

FN2 values from fn2workshop.co.uk opened in IE not Chrome
The 2 Values supplied are correct as these where previously searched for on here from previous peeps that have carried these repairs out
As for The document this was found on here, but if the bolting dimensions/material is the same the torque values should not differ from uk to us. But I would still 2nd check any values, if in doubt give Honda a bell. They will supply the correct values.
 

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2007 FK2 1.8
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Discussion Starter · #204 · (Edited)
Might be lazy and try to slip a 15mm flexi head spanner into the top bolt gap, although I should really remove more of the plastic in case I drop one of the nuts!
When I saw all the dead leaves and crap under there I knew I'd have to take the cowl off when I do mine just to clean it out

Haynes torque values (Nm):
front strut piston nut 54
front upper 3x mounting nuts 54
front 2x strut to knuckle nuts 106
(front) drop-link nuts 29
rear shock upper nut 20
rear shock lower bolt 54
 

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Yes... Building them indoors with good lighting has probably salvaged something as it's literally 6 bolts per side plus the wheel nuts. I've already cracked off the near side shock bolts recently due to replacing the driveshaft last year.

Might be lazy and try to slip a 15mm flexi head spanner into the top bolt gap, although I should really remove more of the plastic in case I drop one of the nuts!
I slipped mine in and didn’t take the scuttle off but I have proper women fingers and can get into small gaps, but have to be careful that you don’t drop the nut
 

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When I saw all the dead leaves and crap under there I knew I'd have to take the cowl off when I do mine just to clean it out

Haynes torque values (Nm):
Looks like the 2 off bottom bolting could be a different size on yours to the CTR, the 2 off on the strut any how’s.
 

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The top bolts are 14mm, or atleast the spanner I have fits them as I already tried.

I've got spanners and impact sockets of all the usual sizes anyway. I almost always use impact sockets when possible even if I'm not using an impact gun as I've had way too many bolts round off on me in the past!

Date is set for this coming Tuesday touch wood...Hopefully be able to book a wheel alignment on Wed locally somewhere as I've got work again on Thurs.
 

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2007 FK2 1.8
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Discussion Starter · #210 ·
So is an alignment always necessary after replacing front struts?
 

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Maybe...Some have changed front struts and found they were very close to fully aligned anyway but it isn't worth dodgy tyre wear for the sake of fifty quid.

Mind you, I had to undo the two 19mm bolts on one of my struts last year as I deemed that the quickest route into removing and changing the snapped driveshaft, I never did an alignment after and that was about 9k miles ago!!
 

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2007 FK2 1.8
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Discussion Starter · #212 ·
I can't get the new rear shock lower mounting rubber through the hole in the wheel arch (the one stuck to the top of the outer wheel arch but with the star-pattern bit poking through inside the boot)

Does this only really go through when the car's settled? I'm trying to shove it through by hand and the shock just compresses:/

Also, when reassembling is rubber grease a good idea for the spring seats or anywhere?
 

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I can't get the new rear shock lower mounting rubber through the hole in the wheel arch (the one stuck to the top of the outer wheel arch but with the star-pattern bit poking through inside the boot)

Does this only really go through when the car's settled? I'm trying to shove it through by hand and the shock just compresses:/

Also, when reassembling is rubber grease a good idea for the spring seats or anywhere?
It’ll go through in tight when you compress it under a jack to fit the upper mounting bolt - I didn’t bother with any grease, I don’t think Honda mention this
 

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It should just go through, maybe your beam has dropped a bit too far down.

Just don't tighten the top nut until the car's weight is on the shock and rear axle.

Didn't grease mine and it doesn't make any noise.
 

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I can't get the new rear shock lower mounting rubber through the hole in the wheel arch (the one stuck to the top of the outer wheel arch but with the star-pattern bit poking through inside the boot)

Does this only really go through when the car's settled? I'm trying to shove it through by hand and the shock just compresses:/

Also, when reassembling is rubber grease a good idea for the spring seats or anywhere?
No it doesn’t pop all the way through, only part pops through and this locates the rubber mount to underneath of the arch from what I remember
 

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2007 FK2 1.8
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Discussion Starter · #216 · (Edited)
Cheers guys. Sorry my wording was confusing, I could get the shock through the hole but that star-shaped bit that grips the inside wouldn't go through by hand or even with jack pushing from below.
Audio equipment Gas Tints and shades Microphone Cone

The bit I've highlighted was just sort of mangled up in the hole, not neatly protruding doing its job. The lower mount looked good from below though.

So I just finished the install and took the car for a spin. It felt good to drive anyway, I'll take a look in the light tomorrow.

My old components weren't in terrible condition. The 100k mile used shocks were slightly easier than the new ones to compress with my body weight, although the old ones did make a hissing sound so maybe it's the beginning of the end. I guess "slightly easier" by hand could translate to a significantly worse driving experience as the forces are that much larger. Anyway, have to say I'm impressed with the way these Sachs parts have held up after 14 yrs. Was hoping the shocks I pulled from the car would be absolutely toast haha
Office supplies Writing implement Musical instrument Wind instrument Pen

Old springs only had significant visible corrosion at the top and bottom. I've no idea how well they operate but they feel pretty similar to the new springs. Only stuck replacements in cos these KYBs are £16.50 each.
Bicycle part Wood Automotive tire Rim Font

New v old lower mounting bolts. I could have reused my old bolts (as @Das said 😁) but I didn't want to start the job without new ones to hand just in case.
Hand Tire Wheel Automotive tire Gas

Even though the old and new components feel somewhat similar to each other in your hand in my case, I do feel like the ride has improved. I've only had a quick drive after the change though. I feel it's quieter at the back now too
 

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I just looked at the previous shock and copied how it appeared when fitting the new one.

Easier now with mobiles etc so can just snap a pic and refer to it!
 

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2007 FK2 1.8
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Discussion Starter · #218 ·
I just looked at the previous shock and copied how it appeared when fitting the new one.
Easier now with mobiles etc so can just snap a pic and refer to it!
Yeah I do the same

I just couldn't get that rubber stopper through properly. Hopefully when I take the nut off and move the upper mounts out the way tomorrow I'll see it's come through okay under weight
 

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Yeah I do the same

I just couldn't get that rubber stopper through properly. Hopefully when I take the nut off and move the upper mounts out the way tomorrow I'll see it's come through okay under weight
put a bit of washing up liquid on it and see if that helps.
otherwise that rubber will come off the shock and you could try pushing it in on it's own and then pushing the shock into it.
 

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I think I put the rubber bush in first and then the metal collar thing and then fed the shock through.


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