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I recall removing the top washer and top rubber bush then were zero issues with fitting...

Also when fitting the rear springs the shock didn't get stuck at all and just came out the mounting hole.

Today's suspension fitting is off, it's drenched with rain... I've got tomorrow and Thurs hopefully however.
 

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2007 FK2 1.8
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Discussion Starter · #222 ·
Yeah I should have removed the top rubber and inserted it into the hole and then inserted the rest of the shock through the rubber

Rain delays here also
 

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Check the shocks in the bottom, I took off the top nut and bush then the lower just went into the hole in the boot with no issues I can remember.

I did have to prize the original one out as it stuck fast due to years of being there.
Motor vehicle Automotive design Bumper Bicycle part Automotive exterior
 

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Discussion Starter · #224 ·
I just went and removed the top nuts and top rubbers inside the boot and could see the top of the lower rubber was almost through, just needed a little help from a flat head screwdriver (y) All in position now. Starting fronts in a mo...
 

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Well that was an utter disaster.

Drop links are well and truly stuck on there and I've got no cutting equipment... The 14mm bit turns but the allen key centre is completely rounded/rusted.

Does this work on Honda drop links?

Basically smash the back of it then use mole grips to loosen it...
 

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Well that was an utter disaster.

Drop links are well and truly stuck on there and I've got no cutting equipment... The 14mm bit turns but the allen key centre is completely rounded/rusted.

Does this work on Honda drop links?

Basically smash the back of it then use mole grips to loosen it...
I managed to get the bottom link of and then use the leverage to pop the ball joint for the upper link - did this for both sides

Did you get them removed in the end?
 

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I managed to get the bottom link of and then use the leverage to pop the ball joint for the upper link - did this for both sides

Did you get them removed in the end?
Nope, they're still on the car...

A die grinder is a bit too much money, looks like I can knock the link off the ball joint and get a mole grip to hold it instead of the allen key. Hopefully the car isn't too wonky and driveable...

Can't really do it tomorrow, maybe Saturday or Monday.
 

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Just went to test the suspension, loose drop links utterly destroy the handling. It's like a clown car now with clunking and wandering...

Although I feel the ARB bushes and droplinks were on their way out anyway as it's more pronounced now, the ARB bushes are different on either side too which is nice :confused:
Only didn't change them as I'd rather only slap the new ones on when the car's all ready.

Unless anyone else has any ideas I'm going to chisel the link of the drop links off then use a mole grip to hold the ball in place and hopefully can crack the 14mm bolt off the end. Only need to get the lower off as the upper will be scrapped along with the rest of the old strut. I do have a blow torch but not sure if it'll be of much merit by this point as the inner allen key bit is rusted to hell.

There's this method too...
 

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Just went to test the suspension, loose drop links utterly destroy the handling. It's like a clown car now with clunking and wandering...

Although I feel the ARB bushes and droplinks were on their way out anyway as it's more pronounced now, the ARB bushes are different on either side too which is nice :confused:
Only didn't change them as I'd rather only slap the new ones on when the car's all ready.

Unless anyone else has any ideas I'm going to chisel the link of the drop links off then use a mole grip to hold the ball in place and hopefully can crack the 14mm bolt off the end. Only need to get the lower off as the upper will be scrapped along with the rest of the old strut. I do have a blow torch but not sure if it'll be of much merit by this point as the inner allen key bit is rusted to hell.
Drill straight down middle off Alan key location with Metal HSS drill bit, then crack it of with chisel, cheap metal and will piss through it with drill.
 

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Discussion Starter · #230 · (Edited)
Haha I went at it today too, my drop links were also rounded to $hit of course and I wasn't properly prepared for it. I got driver's side off eventually with drill + diamond cut disc, but it's not ideal cos the brake dust shield is in the wrong position and prevented me getting the cutter perpendicular to the bolt - a handheld dremel would be ideal but I only have a massive thing with a power chord from the 90s. Had to approach from under the car in the end. Passenger side tomorrow, I'll try the method in the vid

I also underestimated how long assembling the new struts would take with the hand held spring compressors and no impact gun. Thought I'd be okay with ratcheting wrenches but the ones I have only got me half way cos after a certain point of compression the socket doesn't fit as the coils are closing in on it. So the second half was done with an adjustable spanner. It's been a character building day:)

@Negativvv, the improvement was very noticeable when I changed my ARB bushes the other week and nothing else. Must have been loads of play on the worn ones
 

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Utter pain in the @ss, I'm glad the Meyle HD or whatever they're called aftermarket droplinks I have are just simple bolts with no stupid allen bit in the middle...

Hopefully I'll get to attack them tomorrow otherwise it'll be Saturday, sort of need to prioritise it as the car is ropey as hell with loose drop links!
 

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Discussion Starter · #232 ·
Yeah lol, crossed my mind if I'd need to drive mine with the wobbling drop links for a moment too 😆

Yeah those Meyle HD ones are what everyone gets, they're definitely better than OE (as it says on the box!)
 

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Didn't help I stupidly managed to spin off the thread on one of the lugs with an impact wrench... Live and learn, always hand fasten first!!

At least it's a relatively simple job to change but I'm currently driving around with 4 bolts on top of dodgy droplinks.
 

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eeek! turn that impact wrench down - or better still don't use it on wheel studs at all - 108NM is all they need. If you have stripped the threads then your impact driver is way too aggressive :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #235 ·
Damn I was on the home straight installing passenger side strut but I think my inner CV joint may have come out. Can't get the knuckle into the strut and the rotor is pitched away from car:/. The boot on the inner CV joint looks a bit stretched out compared v to drivers side. Is this something I can fix on my own?
 

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Damn I was on the home straight installing passenger side strut but I think my inner CV joint may have come out. Can't get the knuckle into the strut and the rotor is pitched away from car:/. The boot on the inner CV joint looks a bit stretched out compared v to drivers side. Is this something I can fix on my own?
I had the same issue, that video doesn't tell the whole story as you do need to use a fair bit of force to shove it back in.


Finally got the stupid drop link off.
Wood Tin Gas Ingredient Metal

I smashed off the link and put a one way socket on the ball then the impact driver smashed it off.

The other side took an hour and 10 mins total which is a bit annoying but it's all done finally now.

My ARB bushes were shot, they were brittle and and shrunken. The new ones compressed a bit in there.

Tire Wheel Car Vehicle Window


It'll need a few more days to settle properly I think. Ride is bouncy but smooth with the Tein springs and now all new Sachs shocks.
Wood Automotive tire Auto part Metal Tree


Fronts were different and the pattern one was indeed starting to leak oil.

Just need the wheels aligned now and one of the lugs changed and then it's all good to go.
 

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Also for the side I did quickly. I took a blow torch to the drop link. It came off in literally about 3 mins compared to the hours of the other side.

I highly recommend this as you can pick an eBay blow torch for about a tenner.

Sure the rubber bit will catch fire but that's no biggie.
 

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Discussion Starter · #238 · (Edited)
Also for the side I did quickly. I took a blow torch to the drop link. It came off in literally about 3 mins compared to the hours of the other side.

I highly recommend this as you can pick an eBay blow torch for about a tenner.

Sure the rubber bit will catch fire but that's no biggie.
Glad you finally got it done! It'll probably settle down to a nice ride in the coming days. Let us know how it is on the B roads with the new lowered set up! I always thought my fk2 was pretty fun even with the knackered suspension :ROFLMAO:

My passenger side drop link was a bitch too. I couldn't even loosen the nut enough before the allen hole rounded to present a good half inch of bolt to cut through so I had to go through a thick part. Took ages, smelled like bonfire night under there when I was done

Sadly I'm still in CV joint hell here. Followed the technique in that video but mine just won't pop back in. Tried with the jack at various heights under the wishbone. I was aware of the CV joint coming out all along so I had a box under the rotor and a jack in place when I undid the 2x 19mm lower mounting bolts. Worked fine on driver's side. I was just in more of a hurry today I guess. The inner CV joint is out now and I can't get it back in :(

Probably have to take the new strut upper 3 mounting bolts out again and get it out the way to solve this first
Might need mobile mechanic tomorrow
 

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Glad you finally got it done! It'll probably settle down to a nice ride in the coming days. Let us know how it is on the B roads with the new lowered set up! I always thought my fk2 was pretty fun even with the knackered suspension :ROFLMAO:

My passenger side drop link was a bitch too. I couldn't even loosen the nut enough before the allen hole rounded to present a good half inch of bolt to cut through so I had to go through a thick part. Took ages, smelled like bonfire night under there when I was done

Sadly I'm still in CV joint hell here. Followed the technique in that video but mine just won't pop back in. I was aware of the CV joint coming out so I had a jack inder the wishbone as soon as I loosened the 2x 19mm bolts and I did the same as I did on the driver's side which was a piece of cake. But for some reason the CV joint is out and I can't get it back in :(

Might need mobile mechanic tomorrow
Definitely do the two anti roll bar bushes if you're unsure when they were last done.

Mine were shrunken and brittle, when I chucked them on the floor after I removed them they sounded like blocks of wood. They are 3x14mm per side and easy to do. Just push the bush round and it'll pop out.

Now I spent the best part of an hour trying to pop my CV/driveshaft back in.

The video is helpful but it isn't the whole story. Don't raise the wishbone too much and don't hope that the bottom 19mm bolt secured means the top one can be forced in, when the shaft is in then it'll match up easily. You need to push in with a fair degree of force once it's "clicked" but when it does you'll literally fall into it, basically when it's pushed in you'll know about it as it's nothing like when it's popped out.

Some have used force like mallets etc which I don't recommend and there's no need to remove the boot either as I've popped the driveshafts back in twice now in a year.

The car handles great, planted albeit a bit bouncy and hard. There's a particular bump near me that literally launches me into the air momentarily with just the rear suspension which I don't think even my stiff and low Alfa Romeo does. Other regular cars don't anyway. I'll have to wander over there with the full setup and now just the rears. My fronts really were past their best so I'm glad I changed them.

Won't be driving very hard until after the weekend at the soonest because I need to replace a wheel lug due to stripping it yesterday. Looks like an easy job, take the calliper off, take the disc off then hammer out the lug and the new one hammers in. Apparently there's a gap in the brake shield, or at least I hope there is!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #240 ·
I actually installed my arb bushes a few weeks ago before the rest of my set up had been delivered. Great results!

Okay cheers for the tips.

You've got the same car as me so it ought to be similar. I'll give it another go in the morning. Do you recommend removing the jack from the equation and just supporting the weight of the rotor with my arms for this? Or resting the wishbone on a jack a few inches off the floor to pivot?

Good luck with the lug. Classic impact gun tale!
 
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