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Need help...

Firstly just to share my mods, did my customised my CAI, re located the batt to the orginal filter position. Thus customised a pipe straight from throttle body all the way down to the engine bay. Place my filter right behide the left fog light. Results, better response ;) :D

Secondly, customised my exhaust system, replace the cat with a 2.5'' pipe and all the way till the end. E roaring sound way droppling.. Felt tt my engine can breath a lot better. :pDT_mail:

1)But to my disappointment, engine check light is on. :(
Any bros have solution for this? Or any ECU i can use to take away the check light?
2)Is there a header avaliable for our FN2?
3)Any higher com pistone? Felt that the com ratio, 11:1 is too little n under performance as the JDM is on 11.6:1?
4)Any cams to recommed for FN2?
5)what should i do if i wanna have a 300bhp NA type R?

Thks
 

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Need help...

Firstly just to share my mods, did my customised my CAI, re located the batt to the orginal filter position. Thus customised a pipe straight from throttle body all the way down to the engine bay. Place my filter right behide the left fog light. Results, better response ;) :D

Secondly, customised my exhaust system, replace the cat with a 2.5'' pipe and all the way till the end. E roaring sound way droppling.. Felt tt my engine can breath a lot better. :pDT_mail:

1)But to my disappointment, engine check light is on. :(
Any bros have solution for this? Or any ECU i can use to take away the check light?
2)Is there a header avaliable for our FN2?
3)Any higher com pistone? Felt that the com ratio, 11:1 is too little n under performance as the JDM is on 11.6:1?
4)Any cams to recommed for FN2?
5)what should i do if i wanna have a 300bhp NA type R?

Thks
Don't understand:confused:
 

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We need pictures! :D:D:D

sounds potentially very good though :D


Need help...

Firstly just to share my mods, did my customised my CAI, re located the batt to the orginal filter position. Thus customised a pipe straight from throttle body all the way down to the engine bay. Place my filter right behide the left fog light. Results, better response ;) :D
all sounds good - though I'd be a bit worried about driving through puddles with an air intake down that low...

Secondly, customised my exhaust system, replace the cat with a 2.5'' pipe and all the way till the end. E roaring sound way droppling.. Felt tt my engine can breath a lot better. :pDT_mail:
this may be one of your problems with the check light...

1)But to my disappointment, engine check light is on. :(
Any bros have solution for this? Or any ECU i can use to take away the check light?
my first guesses would be that the check light could be on due to either the readings from the MAF sensor (assuming you didn't remove it as part of relocating the battery, in which case that certainly wouldn't help!), or the emissions sensor now that you have removed the cat.

2)Is there a header avaliable for our FN2?
not that I've seen (though I haven't been looking...)

3)Any higher com pistone? Felt that the com ratio, 11:1 is too little n under performance as the JDM is on 11.6:1?
different engine though.
again, haven't seen any pistons for the FN2 yet.

4)Any cams to recommed for FN2?
see above :(

5)what should i do if i wanna have a 300bhp NA type R?
start off by winning the lottery! :lol:
seriously though, to get an extra 50% power out of this engine is going to cost rather a lot of momeny I would suspect.
You're heading in the right direction by looking at more air coming in, and bigger pistons, higher compression, that sort of stuff :D
BUT - unless you know exactly what you are doing, trying to squeeze an extra 100bhp out of a 200bhp engine isn't really DIY stuff - it could all end up in a very messy and expensive explosion of parts... :(

let us know how you get on though! :D
 

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Scratch one Honda Warranty[smilie=cheeky-grin:
 

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Secondly, customised my exhaust system, replace the cat with a 2.5'' pipe and all the way till the end.
I think mainly that is what the problem is for the check engine light
there are def. 2 lambda sensors in the exhaust pipe. One before cat and one after cat.
So now the after cat sensor measuring the same as the first one... the ecu detected that there is no cat or a cat wich is doing nothing...;)
solution: mount the cat back![smilie=tongue.gif]:D
 

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I think mainly that is what the problem is for the check engine light
there are def. 2 lambda sensors in the exhaust pipe. One before cat and one after cat.
So now the after cat sensor measuring the same as the first one... the ecu detected that there is no cat or a cat wich is doing nothing...;)
solution: mount the cat back![smilie=tongue.gif]:D
Exactly - and there is definitely trouble ahead with the next technical checkup...
 

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okee i have a sollution.. i have the same mods :D a catback and a cai.

the solution is simple..
If you lift the second sensor.. the 1 after the cat up bij 2 inc, the sensor is "smelling" less so the ecu is thingking that there is a cat onder the car.

I have a picture @ home.. i can put the picture online tonight.

this will solv the problem and you are happy :D
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thks for all the advise... Currently very busy but will try to upload some pic.

I personally feel that exhuast and intake is very important. After changing it, i can heard n feel more when my vtec kicks in. But now as my check light is on, engine is in safe mod. Tried resetting ECU but after 2 days of driving check light is on again, i think is e exhuast sensor problem, will try to solve this problem and asap.

Lastly, i heard tt for our car we can use hondata even thro they dun have anything for E-Throttle. How they do it is by rewiring our ecu. Then our car run with 2 ECU, the stock one for all e normal parameters, and hondata for engine tuning.
>Problems.. Engine check light will always be on.
>Solution tt my mechanics gave me is... install another check light indicator. When there is really problem w the engine, the check light will come on.
Cost ard SGD2500

Any advice on this??? Or any other ECU for a start??

Thks
 

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Need help...

Firstly just to share my mods, did my customised my CAI, re located the batt to the orginal filter position. Thus customised a pipe straight from throttle body all the way down to the engine bay. Place my filter right behide the left fog light. Results, better response ;) :D
When u get a chance, it would be great if you have pix of the space behind the fog light...I was thinking of doing the exact same thing...Did you fit a cone filter, what size did you use, and did u remove the resonator box too?

Secondly, customised my exhaust system, replace the cat with a 2.5'' pipe and all the way till the end. E roaring sound way droppling.. Felt tt my engine can breath a lot better.
My opinion is like a few other people, this is causing your problem, hope u find a solution to this...
 

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My understanding about the Hondata unit is that it 'only' disables the engine imboliser circuit?

though, its not something I've done a huge amount of research on :oops:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
When u get a chance, it would be great if you have pix of the space behind the fog light...I was thinking of doing the exact same thing...Did you fit a cone filter, what size did you use, and did u remove the resonator box too?

Yupz removed e resonator box.. and install a cone filter. Too bad, my camera is down. currently can't post any pictures..

My opinion is like a few other people, this is causing your problem, hope u find a solution to this...
I tried reset my ECU again by disconnecting the batt. Currently check light is off. Will mointor for the next few days and update again. :)
 

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hmm im working on it.. it seens to be a overfull of gas that why it pumps @ 35000 rpm.
When you drive @ full trotle from 0 then i have no problem @ all.

i know that the injection kicks in @ 3500 rpm.. butt havend got a solution for that...

ill keep you in toughts :D and let me know if the motor management light goes out :D gl :D
 

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the 1.8 does not have a header so u cannot buy another exhaust, only after the cat u can change it. Since the engine as an internal header integrated in the cilinderhead:) its a single cam engine, i think there are no other camshafs available for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
hmm im working on it.. it seens to be a overfull of gas that why it pumps @ 35000 rpm.
When you drive @ full trotle from 0 then i have no problem @ all.

i know that the injection kicks in @ 3500 rpm.. butt havend got a solution for that...

ill keep you in toughts :D and let me know if the motor management light goes out :D gl :D

Thks for the info...
My flat spot is very obvious during 3rd gear when rev from 2000 to above 4000.. When full throttle, it's ok too...
Ok will update u if i manage to get e check light off....
 
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