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Which Sat Nav programme are you using with this unit? How does it perform on the road? I watched your youtube video clip and am pretty sure I noticed the unit has 1gb of storage, surely if you have a sat nav package with maps installed, you will have not much more storage space available?
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Which Sat Nav programme are you using with this unit? How does it perform on the road? I watched your youtube video clip and am pretty sure I noticed the unit has 1gb of storage, surely if you have a sat nav package with maps installed, you will have not much more storage space available?
At the moment I'm using iGO which I like, it has live traffic and lane guidance, as well as some other interesting features I haven't really tested, but I've been asked to try out TomTom and Navigon, I've yet to get TomTom to work though, mainly because I "acquired" it. The auto-music dimming is an extremely nice feature of the unit, and means that instructions are not missed. It does scare the **** out of you if the music is turned up and you've been driving down the same road for a few miles with no instructions...

The storage is a bit confusing, it has 1GB of app space, and around 6GB of USB storage where you can install some apps if they have the "install to SD card" option, and I think that is where most of the "extra" data goes for the large games etc. However when it comes to maps for navigation applications you can put them on a MicroSD card and plug that in the front of the unit, top left corner. So I've got a 32GB class 10 MicroSD card with about 12GB of maps on whilst I test the different applications.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Did the audio quality improve when playing music using this? Where can I get one :p?
I did replace all of the speakers and install a sub, but using the stock unit with them only improved definition slightly, the sub never seemed to be in tune with the music, just the odd punch here and there.

The headunit is a definite improvement over the stock one. Having a proper equalizer means you can adjust the sound to how you want it, and as there is a dedicated sub output, you can control the volume of that separately. On low it adds a really nice bassline and is not noticeable that you have a huge sub in your boot, but when turned up it's hard to use the mirrors they shake so much ;)

To get one you would need to contact Peter Chan directly through Skype, pumpkin_cool. But he has said that the units will be on eBay shortly.
 

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That's some good news, the main reason for me getting a double din is to improve the stock sound quality and to have a nice touch screen and sat nav :).

If it's android and can paly games that is a plus ;).
I do have a few questions, i'm assuming that this device can connect to a hotspot set by my phone?
When you make phone calls how does it do it? Connected via bluetooth to your phone or?
Can you play games when driving (not me but my passenger lol)

A quick question or rather a pointer, in regards to the stock music app and the issues you have with it turning on, are you not able to go to setting>apps>all apps then find the music app click it then select disable? I am able to do that on my sony xperia Z and disable the stock music player. You may have already tried that but just thought it may help.

How much are they?
 

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I have been all over this thread over the last couple of days, the audio system seems to tick all my boxes, many thanks for the detailed walk through[smilie=ebil-thumbu:

How have you found the screen with its brightness? When the sun is shining right onto the screen, are there any visibility issues? (what bloody sun I hear you asking :p )

Have you taken your car out on a longish trip and used the sat nav extensively? Is the receiver picking up a good enough signal in the location in which you have placed it?

Can you link to a hotspot connection set up by your mobile phone?

Sorry for all the questions, just trying to gather as much info as I can.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
That's some good news, the main reason for me getting a double din is to improve the stock sound quality and to have a nice touch screen and sat nav :).

If it's android and can paly games that is a plus ;).
I definitely think an Android unit is the way to go, I found it difficult to find a reasonably priced "branded" headunit with navigation, but with Android you have so much flexibility to choose what to run.

Recently it seems the most common way to get navigation is through your phone displayed on the headunit screen, which is fine, but I would prefer not to degrade my phone battery.

I do have a few questions, i'm assuming that this device can connect to a hotspot set by my phone?
Correct, it comes with a WiFi dongle, I have also got a 3G dongle and am waiting for my SIM to arrive.

When you make phone calls how does it do it? Connected via bluetooth to your phone or?
Correct, bluetooth to phone. It may be able to make them through a 3G dongle, but I very much doubt it as the phone app seems to be dedicated to bluetooth. The SIM I have ordered is internet only, so I would have to try my phone SIM to confirm.

Can you play games when driving (not me but my passenger lol)
Yes, you don't even need to ground the brake wire, just disable the check in the settings menu. I am waiting to take the unit out of my car to see how versatile it is with regards to displaying different apps on different screens, eg navigation on main unit and a game on a different screen.

A quick question or rather a pointer, in regards to the stock music app and the issues you have with it turning on, are you not able to go to setting>apps>all apps then find the music app click it then select disable? I am able to do that on my sony xperia Z and disable the stock music player. You may have already tried that but just thought it may help.
Thanks, I have indeed tried this, but no luck, the disable button is greyed out. I also tried an app that stops apps that start on boot, but it wasn't listed so it must be part of the actual system that opens it when it turns on.

How much are they?
For the one I got, the price is around $550 + import fees.

I have been all over this thread over the last couple of days, the audio system seems to tick all my boxes, many thanks for the detailed walk through[smilie=ebil-thumbu:
[/quote]

No problem, I find detailed pictures help myself when it comes to things like this.

How have you found the screen with its brightness? When the sun is shining right onto the screen, are there any visibility issues? (what bloody sun I hear you asking :p )
I haven't been out in the sun yet, I think it will be susceptible to glare, as would most screens being sat in that position. Definitely something I will try if I see the sun again!

Been out tonight as I was concerned that it was very dark at night, but it seems to work well. Although I wouldn't want to use it much at night browsing the internet, for navigation it's very clear using iGO, the screen is black and the road is white. It is hard to see in peripheral vision which is good, no glaring light, but easy enough to see when you look at it.

Have you taken your car out on a longish trip and used the sat nav extensively? Is the receiver picking up a good enough signal in the location in which you have placed it?
Took it out tonight for an hour or so, didn't go through built up areas, but it had perfect signal the whole time, and sat on my drive it is fine also. My original plan was to put it on the roof on the beam running across the glass roof, but I'll only do that now if I have issues with the current location, as it was so much easier to put it there.

Can you link to a hotspot connection set up by your mobile phone?
Yes, connects via WiFi no problems.

Sorry for all the questions, just trying to gather as much info as I can.
No problem :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Reversing Camera Install

This isn't complete yet, I'm hoping to get further pictures tomorrow, and will be connecting it to the headunit (the easy bit) when my other parts arrive.

So far this has been the worst experience modding my car, it seems each stage caused me various issues.

I apologize for the picture quality, a lot were taken in the dark with a torch. I will try my best to replace these, as the car is still in pieces at the moment anyway.

You need to start from inside the car rather than the boot, this was my first mistake.

You don't need to feed the cable all of the way through the car, just up from where the rear seat belt is attached at the bottom, you need to pull the panel off just so you can poke the wire up the rear pillar, and out of the hole for the grommet.

To remove the grommet, just pull it out both ends. Now you need to get the wire through the grommet, it's very unlikely you will manage this with the phono connector on, so just cut it off, if you don't have a spare one to use then leave 20cm so you can reattach it later.

I used a thin rod poked through the grommet, then taped the cable to this and pulled it back through. Not going to lie, this part wasn't easy as the grommet was very tight and grippy, it took me quite some time and force to do this.

http://callcut.eu.org/uploads/ICE-Install/thumbnails/2013-10-30 17.04.18.jpg
Rod through grommet

The next challenge is to get the wire up the door, to do this I used a length of house electrical cable, but any stiff wire will do. Push it through from the top on the right hand side where you can see the existing conduit going down towards the grommet. This step again took me a while before I managed to get the electrical cable through the boot and out the grommet hole. Once it is though, it's very easy to pull it back through with your camera cable attached.

http://callcut.eu.org/uploads/ICE-Install/thumbnails/2013-10-30 16.37.39.jpg http://callcut.eu.org/uploads/ICE-Install/thumbnails/2013-10-30 17.11.59.jpg
Wire through boot door, and camera wire attached ready to be pulled through

http://callcut.eu.org/uploads/ICE-Install/thumbnails/2013-10-30 16.37.48.jpg http://callcut.eu.org/uploads/ICE-Install/thumbnails/2013-10-30 16.38.06.jpg
Going from where the lights are, and to where the grommet is

Now you have the cable poking through where the lights are, you will need to remove the lights to fit the camera itself. This can be done without removing any trim panels expect the ones that cover the rear of the lights of course, these simply pull off.

http://callcut.eu.org/uploads/ICE-Install/thumbnails/2013-10-30 17.13.15.jpg
Wire pulled through

Make sure you are careful not to drop any nuts, unfortuntaly when putting the lights back on I managed to do just that, and had to remove the whole boot trim to retrive it.

In total there are 16 nuts, three for each outer light, and ten for the centre light.

You must remove the outer lights first as they have a tag that stops the centre light from being removed.

They are easy enough to remove, just three nuts which are all accessible with a straight driver.

http://callcut.eu.org/uploads/ICE-Install/thumbnails/2013-10-28 16.06.19.jpg http://callcut.eu.org/uploads/ICE-Install/thumbnails/2013-10-28 16.08.08.jpg
Outer light nut locations, and removing nut

Remember to unplug all of the lights.

http://callcut.eu.org/uploads/ICE-Install/thumbnails/2013-10-28 16.09.05.jpg
Light unplugged

http://callcut.eu.org/uploads/ICE-Install/thumbnails/2013-10-28 16.09.57.jpg http://callcut.eu.org/uploads/ICE-Install/thumbnails/2013-10-30 15.43.35.jpg
Outer lights removed

It was at this stage the driver I was using decided to break in half, I think it was older than I am...

http://callcut.eu.org/uploads/ICE-Install/thumbnails/2013-10-30 15.40.10.jpg
Broken driver

Next, remove the whole centre light cluster, below are pictures of the nut locations, make sure you have removed all ten before trying to remove it, if you don't, remove the ones you have missed.

http://callcut.eu.org/uploads/ICE-Install/thumbnails/2013-10-30 15.29.29.jpg http://callcut.eu.org/uploads/ICE-Install/thumbnails/2013-10-30 15.32.16.jpg
Nut locations

http://callcut.eu.org/uploads/ICE-Install/thumbnails/2013-10-30 15.44.18.jpg http://callcut.eu.org/uploads/ICE-Install/thumbnails/2013-10-30 15.44.26.jpg
More nut locations

Don't forget the following nut on each side, it is hard to reach but a spanner works well.

http://callcut.eu.org/uploads/ICE-Install/thumbnails/2013-10-30 15.29.59.jpg http://callcut.eu.org/uploads/ICE-Install/thumbnails/2013-10-30 15.31.21.jpg
Hard to reach nut, undoing with spanner

http://callcut.eu.org/uploads/ICE-Install/thumbnails/2013-10-30 15.46.56.jpg
All nuts removed

You will need to unplug the button, so don't close the boot with the lights removed!

Now choose where you want your camera to go, I initially wanted it in front of the button, but this is a terrible place as the camera has to angle downwards a lot, so the button is not easily accessible. I ended up putting the camera to the right (drivers side), it's much more hidden here, and the picture is not too off-centre due to the camera having a wide-angle lens.

There is a gap between the button and the numberplate light which you can poke the cable through. Then put it under the foam seal, and cut a small bit of plastic off so when the light is replaced it does not crush the wire.

http://callcut.eu.org/uploads/ICE-Install/thumbnails/2013-10-30 15.57.23.jpg http://callcut.eu.org/uploads/ICE-Install/thumbnails/2013-10-30 15.57.37.jpg
Wire in gap

http://callcut.eu.org/uploads/ICE-Install/thumbnails/2013-10-30 15.57.58.jpg http://callcut.eu.org/uploads/ICE-Install/thumbnails/2013-10-30 15.58.12.jpg
Wire under seal

After you've done that, put the centre light back on, followed by the two outer lights.

Now you will need to put the connector back on the video wire from the car that you removed earlier.

Connect the wires up, both red wires go to the brown wire on the reversing light, and the black wire to the black wire. I used Scotchloks for this, but attached to some of my own wire going to bullet connectors, as the supplied wire was very thin and I did not believe it would work in the Scotchlok.

http://callcut.eu.org/uploads/ICE-Install/thumbnails/2013-10-30 17.21.46.jpg
Wires waiting to be connected

If you've installed your own headunit it will be obvious how to connect it up the other end, the red wire goes to the "reverse" wire, and the phono connector to the reversing camera input. I will get some pictures of this soon.

Any questions please feel free to ask, as I realise this guide isn't completed yet.
 

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Got the headunit fitted in the fascia and attempted to tidy up the wires slightly, not overly happy with the results so I may change the wiring when I go to install everything in the car, depending on where the wires want to go and where they sit.

From a bit of research it appears that there are two standards for double din size, 178mm x 100mm, and 173mm x 98mm. Typically the fascia is designed for the smaller of these, and the headunit was the slightly larger size, of course meaning that it didn't fit.

I contacted the place I bought the fascia from, but they did not have a suitable surround, so I had no choice but to file it down.

Honestly, I don't think you can tell, even when you look closely, and certainly you would never know once it is installed in the car.

http://callcut.eu.org/uploads/ICE-Install/thumbnails/2013-10-24 21.59.06.jpg http://callcut.eu.org/uploads/ICE-Install/thumbnails/2013-10-24 22.00.04.jpg
Headunit installed in the fascia, and close-up of the surround edge


http://callcut.eu.org/uploads/ICE-Install/thumbnails/2013-10-24 22.01.10.jpg http://callcut.eu.org/uploads/ICE-Install/thumbnails/2013-10-24 22.01.22.jpg
Mess of wires, close up of braiding


The headunit came with bare wires rather than an ISO connector, so I had to purchase one from eBay (just £3). I could have soldered the wires together as the ISO connector is universal, but for now I decided to use bullet connectors.


http://callcut.eu.org/uploads/ICE-Install/thumbnails/2013-10-24 22.01.32.jpg
Bullet connectors


There were two extra cables in the Connects2 wiring, a blue, and a pink wire. From reading a few sources, I believe the pink wire to control the text on the original radio screen, either displaying the date, or "Honda Civic" if the cable is connected to +12v (Or maybe ground, I am not sure). The blue wire is apparently a remote connection for an amp, my headunit already has this output, so I won't be using the Connects2 one.
Hello my friend!

First of all I would like to say that you have done an awesome mod on your CTS.

I would like, if you don't mind, to tell me which contacts of the Connects2 adaptor you have used, in order to connect the head unit?

Thanks in advance .

Best regards,
Bill
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Hello my friend!

First of all I would like to say that you have done an awesome mod on your CTS.

I would like, if you don't mind, to tell me which contacts of the Connects2 adaptor you have used, in order to connect the head unit?

Thanks in advance .

Best regards,
Bill
Thank you.

To connect my specific headunit, or a general headunit?

If you are wondering about all of the red bullet connectors, it is just because my headunit does not have an ISO connector. If yours does, then the headunit plugs straight into the two ISO connectors on the Connects2 wiring, then you need to connect your KEY1 and KEY2 wires to the Connects2 black box, and also ground needs to go here - you can splice the ground in the ISO wiring if you don't have a spare ground wire. If you have a branded headunit then you will not have KEY1 and KEY2, but maybe a 2.5mm connector that plugs straight into your headunit instead, which is easier.

You will need to give 12v to the blue antenna wire. There will be a pink and a blue wire on the Connects2 kit, these do not need to be connected to anything. Then all of the connectors go to what is in your car, the colours match up also, so green connector to green plug, it's very obvious when you have the headunit out.
 

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Thank you.

To connect my specific headunit, or a general headunit?

If you are wondering about all of the red bullet connectors, it is just because my headunit does not have an ISO connector. If yours does, then the headunit plugs straight into the two ISO connectors on the Connects2 wiring, then you need to connect your KEY1 and KEY2 wires to the Connects2 black box, and also ground needs to go here - you can splice the ground in the ISO wiring if you don't have a spare ground wire. If you have a branded headunit then you will not have KEY1 and KEY2, but maybe a 2.5mm connector that plugs straight into your headunit instead, which is easier.

You will need to give 12v to the blue antenna wire. There will be a pink and a blue wire on the Connects2 kit, these do not need to be connected to anything. Then all of the connectors go to what is in your car, the colours match up also, so green connector to green plug, it's very obvious when you have the headunit out.
Hello again my mate and I'm sorry to bother you for one more time,

Thanks a lot about your rapidly answer. My HU which I'm in search to buy, is not a branded one.I'll prefer to buy a one with ISO connectors, but I still don't understand the way how to connect the steering wheel controls. The KEY1, KEY2 and the ground (-) wires, as you mentioned above, have specific position on the Connects2 kit where you connect them;
It is possible for you to send me the link from where you bought your HU;

Thanks for one more time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Hello again my mate and I'm sorry to bother you for one more time,

Thanks a lot about your rapidly answer. My HU which I'm in search to buy, is not a branded one.I'll prefer to buy a one with ISO connectors, but I still don't understand the way how to connect the steering wheel controls. The KEY1, KEY2 and the ground (-) wires, as you mentioned above, have specific position on the Connects2 kit where you connect them;
It is possible for you to send me the link from where you bought your HU;

Thanks for one more time.
No problem.

ISO connectors are ideal, but if not there is no need to worry, you can do what I did and buy an ISO cable (they are standard, and very cheap, mine cost £3 delivered) then connect your headunit wiring to it, hence the bullet connectors.

For the steering wheel controls, the Connects2 wiring kit comes with a black box, then depending on your headunit you get a specific cable for it, if you go for an unbranded one your cable will have three wires, Ground, Key1, and Key2.

If you look in the picture below, you can see what I mean.

http://callcut.eu.org/uploads/ICE-Install/thumbnails/2013-10-24 22.01.10.jpg

As your unit is unbranded, it will come with some wires without connectors too, two of which should be labeled Key1 and Key2, so it is simple to just connect these up, again shown in the above photo.

Hope you can understand.

I ordered my unit directly from Peter Chan through Skype, pumpkin_cool. He has said it should appear on eBay soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Do you have the model number so I can keep an eye out on ebay?
Sorry, I seemed to miss this post.

I don't think there is a model number for this unit, or any common name at the moment.

Most likely it will appear on eBay under the search "pure android 4.1 car stereo". Specifically, it should appear in this shop.
 

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No problem.

ISO connectors are ideal, but if not there is no need to worry, you can do what I did and buy an ISO cable (they are standard, and very cheap, mine cost £3 delivered) then connect your headunit wiring to it, hence the bullet connectors.

For the steering wheel controls, the Connects2 wiring kit comes with a black box, then depending on your headunit you get a specific cable for it, if you go for an unbranded one your cable will have three wires, Ground, Key1, and Key2.

If you look in the picture below, you can see what I mean.

http://callcut.eu.org/uploads/ICE-Install/thumbnails/2013-10-24 22.01.10.jpg

As your unit is unbranded, it will come with some wires without connectors too, two of which should be labeled Key1 and Key2, so it is simple to just connect these up, again shown in the above photo.

Hope you can understand.

I ordered my unit directly from Peter Chan through Skype, pumpkin_cool. He has said it should appear on eBay soon.
Thanks again my friend,

The problem is, in the beginning when I ordered the kit, I planned to buy a Kenwood HU and the kit came with specific cable for it.But now I change my plans (for economic reasons) and I'm looking for a no name HU.So my last favour from you, first of all if it's possible for you, is to explain me with a schema or a photo, which cables of your kit are connected together and which of them are these for the HU connection (KEY1, KEY2, Ground).
For your convenience you can use MS excel table, with same number of cages
as the plug of the kit and use the same colours to indicate the cables which are connected together on the kit and other colours for them which are going to the HU (KEY1, KEY2, Ground)

Thanks again & again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Thanks again my friend,

The problem is, in the beginning when I ordered the kit, I planned to buy a Kenwood HU and the kit came with specific cable for it.But now I change my plans (for economic reasons) and I'm looking for a no name HU.So my last favour from you, first of all if it's possible for you, is to explain me with a schema or a photo, which cables of your kit are connected together and which of them are these for the HU connection (KEY1, KEY2, Ground).
For your convenience you can use MS excel table, with same number of cages
as the plug of the kit and use the same colours to indicate the cables which are connected together on the kit and other colours for them which are going to the HU (KEY1, KEY2, Ground)

Thanks again & again.
Sure, no problem I understand what you mean now.

I had the radio out today so I was able to check the connection, I've taken some pictures and will also make a diagram, these will be posted later tonight.

To be honest, you might be better off just getting the replacement cable for ~£4, I think shipping to Greece would be at least £3 though.
 

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Sure, no problem I understand what you mean now.

I had the radio out today so I was able to check the connection, I've taken some pictures and will also make a diagram, these will be posted later tonight.

To be honest, you might be better off just getting the replacement cable for ~£4, I think shipping to Greece would be at least £3 though.
Thank you my mate, I'll wait new details from you, when you find the time to do it.
 

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I guess a temporary way around the default music app issue could be the CarHome Ultra app. This would let you design your own menu with whatever apps you want. Sure there is a fix somewhere though, have you enquired on the XDA forums?

Poweramp running as the default music app on that system would be amazing, it has to be possible!
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Thank you my mate, I'll wait new details from you, when you find the time to do it.
Sorry for the delay, haven't had a chance to sit down and sort through my pictures yet. The details should be posted here in the next few hours.

I guess a temporary way around the default music app issue could be the CarHome Ultra app. This would let you design your own menu with whatever apps you want. Sure there is a fix somewhere though, have you enquired on the XDA forums?

Poweramp running as the default music app on that system would be amazing, it has to be possible!
I've tried other music apps, but very few can actually see the music on the MicroSD card, Poweramp is one, but the steering wheel controls do not work with it, or any other app I have tried but the default one.

I've had a look on XDA, not much information or tips for the unit as I don't think anyone else has it yet.

I had high hopes when I was downloading the system image, but it seems the files are encrypted, so not possible to modify them yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Dash Camera Wiring

This post contains information regarding the route for hiding the wire to a dash camera, or similar device.

Usually these devices run off a 5v supply, so you cannot just wire it straight to the 12v in the car. To solve this I purchased a 12v to 5v step down converter, some 2 core wire, and some micro USB connectors.

With the converter I purchased, you could get away with purchasing a simple USB lead rather than making your own. As you can see in the picture, it has a USB socket on one side that provides the 5v, and on the other side is the input from the car. No soldering required.

http://callcut.eu.org/uploads/ICE-Install/thumbnails/2013-11-06 16.01.56.jpg
12v to 5v converter

The wire runs behind the top lining, down the A pillar, and behind the plastic panel to the fuse box in the driver's footwell.

http://callcut.eu.org/uploads/ICE-Install/thumbnails/2013-11-03 16.14.51.jpg http://callcut.eu.org/uploads/ICE-Install/thumbnails/2013-11-03 16.14.33.jpg
Wiring coming out of lining

When you get to the corner of the windscreen run the cable to the other side of the pillar, lift the panel slightly and it just slides in.

http://callcut.eu.org/uploads/ICE-Install/thumbnails/2013-11-03 16.15.47.jpg http://callcut.eu.org/uploads/ICE-Install/thumbnails/2013-11-03 16.16.28.jpg
Wire in top right corner of windscreen

From there you just go down below the rubber.

http://callcut.eu.org/uploads/ICE-Install/thumbnails/2013-11-03 16.16.59.jpg http://callcut.eu.org/uploads/ICE-Install/thumbnails/2013-11-03 16.17.12.jpg
Wire under rubber

This part is the tricky part, it will take a little time to get the wire completely hidden, but it is still a case of pushing the wire under the rubber.

http://callcut.eu.org/uploads/ICE-Install/thumbnails/2013-11-03 16.17.35.jpg http://callcut.eu.org/uploads/ICE-Install/thumbnails/2013-11-03 16.17.52.jpg
Wire at bottom of pillar, and coming out where side panel is

To remove the panel, you just pull it off, there are a few clips along the top, and down the side, but none at the back.

http://callcut.eu.org/uploads/ICE-Install/thumbnails/2013-11-02 13.58.24.jpg http://callcut.eu.org/uploads/ICE-Install/thumbnails/2013-11-02 13.58.56.jpg
Removing side panel, and panel removed

To remove the panel under the steering wheel, you will need to removed the side panel as described above, and also remove the single screw. After that, pull the lever so the wheel can be moved, then start from the bottom and pull towards you, from both sides. There are clips running up the sides and one on each side at the top.

http://callcut.eu.org/uploads/ICE-Install/thumbnails/2013-11-02 13.59.55.jpg
Pulling lever to release steering wheel

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Pulling from both sides to remove the panel

You can also pull from the side to help release the panel.

http://callcut.eu.org/uploads/ICE-Install/thumbnails/2013-11-02 14.00.23.jpg
Pulling panel from the side

It is then a case of pushing the wire through and connecting up to a ground point and the option connector on the fuse box, that is the bottom right pin for 12v ignition source, a simple female spade connector works perfectly.

There is also a perfect ground point once you have the panel under the steering wheel removed.

http://callcut.eu.org/uploads/ICE-Install/thumbnails/2013-11-03 16.18.03.jpg
Wire going into dash

http://callcut.eu.org/uploads/ICE-Install/thumbnails/2013-11-03 16.25.46.jpg http://callcut.eu.org/uploads/ICE-Install/thumbnails/2013-11-03 16.25.33.jpg
Plugged into option connector with a spade terminal, and ground point

You can see in the above picture with the mess of wires something covered in blue tape, that is the 12v to 5v converter I used, the red and black wires go in one end, and the yellow wires come out the other. The mess of wires is for the RGB lighting controller.
 
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