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Discussion Starter #1
When I bought car, I ordered it with Basswork package.
In the end.... it wasn't what I hoped for.

So took old woofer and amp from my old Civ and decided to put it in new one.
Also, decided to put all new wiring for indoor speakers, and route them to back so they go over an amp instead of headunit.

For front speaker system I took Pioneer TS-E176C, for rear doors just moved ones from front doors there (coaxials 'Honda' made).
For sub used an that old speaker I had - Kenwood KFC-WS302 (ideal for small enclosures) and old amp Alpine 3544.

On to the show :)

First was to remove door panels and add some sound isolation on doors.
Well, it helps :) Now when you knock on doors, there ain't more that thin metal sound :)
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What I used for sound isolation is this:
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Next, onto the speaker rings.
I decided rather to make wood one instead of buying that el-cheapo plastic ones.
Time to drill some rings :D
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.. and attach them to the doors.
Also started wiring those speakers.
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Pulling the speaker cable was 'easiest' to do with special wire for that that I had, and way to do it is from inside of the car, near the connector in rubber bung into the door. Yes, again - it takes some fiddling to do it.
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After rings were done, time to start wiring power.
Finding place to pull power cable from battery into the cabin was real PITA.
In the end managed to make a small hole in rubber bung in middle of car, where main installation goes to the engine, and pulled power cable through it (black one).
All in all, it *was* real hell to do that, due to lack of space underneath the dash, and even less space in engine bay. Whoever goes thru with this, expect lots of fun ;)
(pic is upside-down.. and doesn't maybe make too much sense... untill you look down there :D)
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Back to the doors... speaker in place, crossover also mounted in door, and another cable pulled for tweeters.
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After 2 days finally wood I ordered was done. MDF, 2.2cm thick.
Test mount in the back.
Idea was to put all in the hole in the back.
This also meant I had to make some place to put amp(s) there, so had to sacrifice some of the volume for subwoofer enclosure.
In the end, box is about 30L, which is more than required for this speaker, as it's rated for 25L box (small enclosure speaker).
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When all cabling is pulled to the back.....
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Back onto building box.
Screwed/glued side panels, and time for some damping material to put into box.
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.. and some proper welding tools for those 'thicker' wires to do :D
(no way to weld those thicker wires with 100W welding iron)
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Well, all bolted up, and in trunk.
Was finally time to test it out!
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Also, missing in the pictures:
Right side where amps are will be covered with board too. There's a vent for amp cooling.
Also - still need to put some material over boards, so it looks nice.
Rectangle over amp look cool, and prevents damage to speaker from stuff in trunk.
2x LOC's (Line Out Converters) are located underneath HU, where Bassworks amp was. Also re-routed RCA into box in hand rest in middle for sub volume control that I put there.

Remote signal is pulled from power for antenna from HU, but just in case... used also relay so it doesn't draw too much current.

Fuse for power is mounted on top of battery, so it's as close as possible to it (don't wanna burn down the car :D).


So.. how does it sound?
Compared to stock - awsum!
Only thing that bothers me a bit is I don't have -3db setting for tweeters, as they seem a bit loud, so had to set up -2 treble on HU, when it sounds right.

But.. when I fired it up, it was great. Until I turn on the engine.
Yes - the dreaded engine whine!
I was sooooo pis*** off!
So, it was time to debug that.
Tried to manually ground RCA's both near HU, and in amp section.. no go.
All in all, after some fiddling, found the culprit.
Darn ground loop.
What did remove all engine whine and all noises was to insulate connectors near HU, and do not connect ground from LOC's to ground near HU.
All grounding was basically than done at amp's side.
This worked great, as have 0 engine whine or noises (brakes, etc...).

Ah.. another thing to look out for that took me another hour of time: when fitting fuse in engine compartment, I dropped fuse and part of box underneath.
OMG.. all underneath of engine is covered in plastic, basically to the middle of car! I barely managed to pick up those 2 pieces without removing half of underside of car.
Be *very* carefully if doing anything near engine, as dropping something may net you in hours spent trying to get it back!

Well... it took me some 5 days (each day some 3-4 hrs) to finish this.
If you go ahead to do it, leave enough time as there will always be some issues that prolong things.
I myself wouldn't be brave enough to leave this job for some shop to do, knowing how they do stuff.
In the end, I broke 0 (zero) plastic clips :D .. so it proves that being careful is good thing, and nothing needs to end up broken in the end :)
 

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BJJ IS NOT JUST FOR XMAS
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Now that looks a nice install
 

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yeah thats a really nice installation

if i had the ability and the money to do that it might just be loud enough to hide all the squeaks and rattles from various bits of the car :rolleyes:
 

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i dont get it. so you take the speaker cables to the amp in the trunk an go back to the front doors? what are those pictures where you pull speaker cables? are'nt the already speaker cables on the original ones?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I took RCA cables to the back, where amplifiers are, and pull speaker wires back to front/rear doors.
Original wires are just cut off near headunit and near speakers.
 

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i just ordered my stuff and going to install them next week.
Did you connect a "LOC"? (HI-LOW) inventer to just 2 speakers? and where did you take the rca cables to the back from?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I installed 2x LOC's (so for front and rear speakers) in place where bassworks amplifier used to be (under CD player).
From there pulled RCA's to the back of car where amplifiers are.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
hi,

where did you connect your remote cabel onto?

thx in advance
' Remote signal is pulled from power for antenna from HU, but just in case... used also relay so it doesn't draw too much current.' :)
 

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I noticed you use LOC's because of keeping factory headunit. Does using LOC limit anything in anyway? Like would I be able to use any amp with my factory HU.
Also how does it affect sound quality.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Nope, LOC's didnt limit me in any way.
And sound quality is very good (there is no distorsion or noises or else that could be heard due to LOC's).
I was also a bit sceptic about LOC's - but really, no sound loss at all even at very low or very high frequencies.
And with them, I am able to use external amp's for all speakers.

Ah... also notice, never posted 'final' image, well here's how it looks nowdays:
120_2024.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #15
What is that Skoda thing?
;-)
1st aid kit and other required stuff by law you need to have in car in case of emergencies.
 

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1st aid kit and other required stuff by law you need to have in car in case of emergencies.
Seeing as the ICE install is so nice, we might forgive you.
;)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Fan is there to circulate air in part of box where amplifiers are (it draws air from part of the box to end of car, and pushes is out where you can see cabling going out).

Amplifiers do need cooling :)
 

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nick7 i like it but i have 2 subs 12 inc separate with boxes and 2 amps, have you any idea where i put this 2 subs and 2 amps. 2 speakers for the shelve any idea what kiind of shelve or strong one. if anyone done for ice please show the photos... thank you!
 

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Hi there, first time posting here, only recently got my civic :) 2.2, milano red. very happy. Anyway, my last car i fully fitted with an audiobahn sound system and was hoping to repeat my efforts. A few questions, how are the fans powerd, and the main one is.. Your sub, is it just sitting there with the magnet on the wood, or has it been suspeneded above?

And what would u think if i recreated your setup, was hoping to do it myself, but cover the top in perspex?
 
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