2006+ Honda Civic Forum banner

21 - 40 of 54 Posts

·
Clutch pedal guru
Joined
·
5,098 Posts
99pa is 0psi so you must be getting boost pressure as you're getting 18psi when driving.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
18psi - 14.3psi = 3.65psi of boost
Google tells me 3.65 psi is 0.2516586 bar

I understand that peak boost is just shy of 1 bar so I'm so way off that.

Is the sensible next step to inspect the hoses on the intercooler? if so can somebody please share some guidance on how to get to the intercooler and is a simple visual inspection enough or do the hoses/pipes need removing and testing in some other way?
 

·
Bye bye Honda...
Joined
·
5,851 Posts
I'd look at the hoses, splashing soapy water on any joints that look doubtful and then checking for bubbles after a run. The boost control actuator linkage should also be checked to make sure it hasn't partially seized (short rod from the turbo to the vacuum controller).
 

·
Clutch pedal guru
Joined
·
5,098 Posts
With ambient of 99kpa and a boost to 125 kpa = 26kpa boost = 3.7psi boost

No it's not, it's 14.35psi 18psi - 14.3psi = 3.65psi of boost
I swear someone has been a bit cheeky and edited posts....

Yesterday he said 99pascals not kilo pascals. Anyway, as I said 99pascals is 0.0143587psi. So practically zero psi.

I was looking at the difference between idle and full.throttle readings as the 'calibrated' reading isn't that important.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
3,978 Posts
It was you that said 99pa, in post #21 which I took for a typo for 99kpa as per the unedited post #20 and the graphs at post #18.

Whatever, Remedy02 is correct, he doesn't have enough boost:frown2:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
514 Posts
To get to the intercooler either take the front bumper off or. take out battery and the 4 bolts on the battery holder and it will be down the bottom right slighty tight fit.


The bolts are either a 10 or 12mm I cant remember now.
 

·
Clutch pedal guru
Joined
·
5,098 Posts
You need to get yourself under the bonnet, take that plastic acoustic cover off the top of the engine and make sure there's no loose pipes. As Jon suggested, a concentrated soapy water mix smeared on the boost pipework from the turbo to intercooler to inlet would bubble up after a short drive. By the way you describe it though, something has just stopped working, not gradually failed. That to me would indicate a pipe popped off or something similar. Check the intercooler pipe that runs under the gearbox too. All connections must be tight.

I'm surprised you're not getting a low boost light.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Discussion Starter #31 (Edited)
I have checked the pipes in and out of the intercooler and everything is fine, no leaks no splits all nice tight and secure.

As Jon suggested I have checked the boost control actuator linkage or at least what I believed it to be and that is fine not stuck or siezed. I took a picture to confirm I'm looking at the right part.




OK, I can confirm that is the wrong part as the turbo is actually somewhere near the back of the engine. Will have to see if I can get to it somehow.
 

·
Clutch pedal guru
Joined
·
5,098 Posts
No that's the intake swirl valve. Those little black pipes that are connected the swirl valve actuator and the egr actuator. Trace them around the engine, one should lead to the turbo actuator at the back of the engine. Make sure they're all attached. I really think something has been knocked.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Discussion Starter #33
Quick update so while driving today the EML came on, I came home and connected the ELM327 and performed a scan, it came back showing error code P1237 when I tapped for a description it says Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Malfunction.

Considering this whole power loss/boost loss issue started after I put the wrong fuel in the car, a fuel pump error does make a lot of sense. Just need to do some searching to see what this error means and what the appropriate fix for it would be.
 

·
Bye bye Honda...
Joined
·
5,851 Posts
P1237 is 'boost pressure lower than expected'. From the Honda workshop manual...

DTC Troubleshooting: P1237 (172-4)
DTC P1237: Boost Pressure Lower Than Expected

NOTE: Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and review the general troubleshooting information.
1. Check for a loose or damaged these turbo control vacuum line:
Vacuum pump and turbocharger boost control solenoid valve
Turbocharger boost control solenoid valve and turbocharger boost control diaphragm
Vacuum pump and brake booster

Are the lines OK?


YES - Go to 2.


NO - Repair or replace the damaged hoses, then go to 17.


2. Check for damage or leak from intercooler and connecting hoses.
Is the intake air duct OK?


YES - Go to 3.


NO - Repair or replace the damaged intake air duct, then go to 17.


3. Inspect the air cleaner element.
Is the air cleaner element OK?


YES - Go to 4.


NO - Replace the air cleaner element, then go to 17.


4. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
5. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
6. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 2,000 rpm (min-1) without load (in neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, then let it idle.
7. Do the TURBOCHARGER BOOST TEST in the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS.
Is the result OK?


YES - Go to 8.


NO - Go to 10.


8. Test-drive under these conditions:
Engine coolant temperature above 80 °C (176 °F)
Engine speed more than 3,000 rpm (min-1)
Drive about 10 minutes

9. Monitor the OBD STATUS for DTC P1237 in the DTCs MENU with the HDS.
Does the screen indicate FAILED?


YES - Go to 10.


NO - If the screen indicates PASSED, intermittent failure, system is OK at this time. If the screen indicates NOT COMPLETED, go to 8 and recheck.


10. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
11. Do the vacuum pump test.
Is the line OK?


YES - Go to 12.


NO - Replace the vacuum pump, then go to 17.

12. Disconnect the vacuum hose (A) from the turbocharger boost control solenoid valve (B), and connect a vacuum pump/gauge (C) to the solenoid.



Open the figure
13. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
14. Apply vacuum to the hose.
Does it hold the vacuum?


YES - Go to 15.


NO - Replace the turbocharger boost control solenoid valve, then go to 17.


15. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
16. Replace the turbocharger assembly.
17. Reconnect all connectors and vacuum hoses.
18. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
19. Reset the ECM with the HDS.
20. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 2,000 rpm (min-1) without load (in neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, then let it idle.
21. Test-drive under these conditions:
Engine coolant temperature above 80 °C (176 °F)
Engine speed more than 3,000 rpm (min-1)
Drive about 10 minutes
22. Check for Temporary DTCs or DTCs with the HDS.
Are any Temporary DTCs or DTCs indicated?


YES - If DTC P1237 is indicated, check for poor connections or loose terminals at the turbocharger boost control solenoid valve and the ECM, then go to 1. If any other Temporary DTCs or DTCs are indicated, go to the indicated DTC's troubleshooting.


NO - Go to 23.


23. Monitor the OBD STATUS for DTC P1237 in the DTCs MENU with the HDS.
Does the screen indicate PASSED?


YES - Troubleshooting is complete.n


NO - If the screen indicates FAILED, check for poor connections or loose terminals at the turbocharger boost control solenoid valve and the ECM, then go to 1. If the screen indicates NOT COMPLETED, go to 20 and recheck.
 

·
Clutch pedal guru
Joined
·
5,098 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Discussion Starter #40
Quick update, not been able to make any progress on this as my knowledge isn't that great and I don't have access to a ramp. I understand the turbo is around the back of the engine and there doesn't seem to be any access to it while the car is on the ground as its all packed quite tight.

I've been recommended a diesel/turbo specialist in Ashton Under Lyne which isn't too far from me so I intend to take it there this week hoping for a fix.
 
21 - 40 of 54 Posts
Top