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Discussion Starter #41
Update: So I went to the turbo specialist he took about 5 minutes looking at the car asking me to rev the car as he felt his way around the engine bay and then finally rev it as he placed his hand over the exhaust at the back and he concluded it's the Turbo or VNT that's faulty.

I left feeling rather unconvinced at the diagnosis and decided to get a seconded opinion at another diesel specialist in Stockport. Had the car booked in for today and have just been to collect it. They've said that looking at the data that the EGR is not closing properly and/or there is a problem with the turbo solenoid as it is not opening enough.

I've also not had the engine management light reappear however performance is still poor as in turbo doesn't seem to kick in.

Considering I've had the EGR valve off and tested it and could see it opening and closing smoothly is it worth cleaning/testing again?
or should I blank it off to see if that makes a difference?
or is the likely culprit the turbo solenoid?

as ever thanks in advance for your help.
 

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they didn't say egr wasn't working
they said not closing properly

its possible it is a vacuum pipe
maybe 1 is nipped or kinked if not leaking
after all the problem did start after working on the car
 

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Clutch pedal guru
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Update: So I went to the turbo specialist he took about 5 minutes looking at the car asking me to rev the car as he felt his way around the engine bay and then finally rev it as he placed his hand over the exhaust at the back and he concluded it's the Turbo or VNT that's faulty.

I left feeling rather unconvinced at the diagnosis and decided to get a seconded opinion at another diesel specialist in Stockport. Had the car booked in for today and have just been to collect it. They've said that looking at the data that the EGR is not closing properly and/or there is a problem with the turbo solenoid as it is not opening enough.

I've also not had the engine management light reappear however performance is still poor as in turbo doesn't seem to kick in.

Considering I've had the EGR valve off and tested it and could see it opening and closing smoothly is it worth cleaning/testing again?
or should I blank it off to see if that makes a difference?
or is the likely culprit the turbo solenoid?

as ever thanks in advance for your help.
How did you test the EGR valve?
 

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You could always blank the egr off and test the car that way, it will bring a few error codes up.


I suggest cleaning the MAF and MAP and there are two solenoidt that you can clean one at the front of the engine and one at the back.



The back one is tricky to get too as you have to remove the plastic bar across the windscreen.
 

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Bye bye Honda...
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You could always blank the egr off and test the car that way, it will bring a few error codes up.

I suggest cleaning the MAF and MAP and there are two solenoidt that you can clean one at the front of the engine and one at the back.

The back one is tricky to get too as you have to remove the plastic bar across the windscreen.
Blanking off the EGR is a good idea even though, as you say, that will cause the engine warning light to come on. Not sure that cleaning the MAP and MAF sensors is indicated, although it wouldn't hurt.

How would you actually clean solenoids? I'm assuming that you are you referring to the boost, IMRC and EGR actuators?
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Update: I ordered a EGR valve blanking plate from eBay. Fitted it yesterday and it didn’t make any difference to performance, after a few miles it went in to limp mode and DTC code P1401 I think it was came up.

Returned home removed the plate and cleared the code. I’ve ordered a second hand turbo solenoid to swap out which is the next job when the weather is a bit better.

Thanks for the picture showing the location of the different sensors huge help.
 

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Bye bye Honda...
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Update: I ordered a EGR valve blanking plate from eBay. Fitted it yesterday and it didn’t make any difference to performance, after a few miles it went in to limp mode and DTC code P1401 I think it was came up.

Returned home removed the plate and cleared the code. I’ve ordered a second hand turbo solenoid to swap out which is the next job when the weather is a bit better.

Thanks for the picture showing the location of the different sensors huge help.
They are actually Electro-Vacuum Regulators (EVRs), also known as actuators, one for the turbo boost control, one for the EGR valve and one for the IMRC unit. For the purposes of fault-finding, I believe it is possible to swap the turbo boost actuator and the EGR valve actuator (I have never done this because my early Accord had an electrically operated EGR valve).
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Second hand part arrived damaged, so that's going back.

However as I had removed the windscreen cowl and the heat shield piece, I had another good look at the various small pipes connecting to the different solenoids (EVRs) and EGR Valve they all look fine no kinks or other visible damage. I also swapped the EGR and Turbo solenoids (EVRs) around as suggested unfortunately that didn't make any difference.

As a final hail Marry for the day I did buy a new fuel filter from the local honda dealer followed the how-to and swapped that out. Unfortunately, that didn't make any difference either.

I've added some Forte diesel turbo cleaner to the fuel my brother suggested it may be worth a try.. again no difference as yet at least but it's only been driven about 10 miles since that's been in.
 
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