2006+ Honda Civic Forum banner

1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
AC in my 2008 FN2 Civic as been absolutely fine up until I had my tyres changed and the tracking done a week a go, now it wont blow cold. Have done a decent amount of reading here and elsewhere on this issue...


  • Have checked and replaced relay - Original was fine. Replaced it with the Mitsuba version anyway just to be sure.
  • Have checked Fuse 7 and 32 (engine/interior) - Both fine.
  • Have bridged the AC relay pins - Engine/Ignition off, AC clutch clunks and can be seen to move. Engine/Ignition on, clutch clunks and begins to spin but no cold air.
  • Had an Air Con service (regas) - Blew cold air for about 12 hours, now warm again.
  • Tried bridging relay pins again - Still no cold air.
  • Have inspected hoses/condenser as best I can - can't see any damage.
  • Don't think it is the interior or exterior temp sensors - Have checked the AUTO+MODE diagnostic menu and both readings seem reasonable plus climate control responds by waking up fans/re-circulation when temp down to 'lo' or 16C.

Where do I go from here?
When the relay in installed and I manually press the AC on/off button there is no clunk and engaging of the clutch but there is if I bridge the pins. Service manual suggests AC may not operate at 'low idle, high engine coolant temperature, hard acceleration or high/low pressure'. I can only assume there is a pressure issue as I've been in plenty of situations when the other conditions are not true.

Thinking I should go back to the place who serviced the AC and get them to take another look. I only mentioned the tracking/tyre change as the issue started from then on. I could be wrong but I can't think that the tracking adjustment could have damaged the AC?

Any help gratefully received.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
97 Posts
]Had an Air Con service (regas) - Blew cold air for about 12 hours, now warm again.
Got the same problem with mine. My thinking is.....if it blows cold after a re-gas but blows warm a day or two later it must be a leak. I had mine re-gassed, fine for a day and then blowing cool but not cold. Took it back, garage checked for leaks, said it was fine but topped up the gas anyway. All good for a day then blowing warm again. I then went to an air-con specialist who pressure tested it, injected dye into the system, inspected it with a UV light, couldn't see a problem so re-gassed it.

It's lasted 3 days and now it's blowing warm again. I'm booked in to him again tomorrow and hopefully this time he'll find the leak! If I get a solution tomorrow I'll post an update in the hope it might help you with your problem!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I did think it could be a leak but I'm surprised it would happen so suddenly rather than a progressive deterioration in cooling. That said I guess random chance could have cause a serious leak. Would have thought the AC service I had would have found that though.

Let me know how you get on, hope it gets sorted for you :)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
348 Posts
Got the same problem with mine. My thinking is.....if it blows cold after a re-gas but blows warm a day or two later it must be a leak. I had mine re-gassed, fine for a day and then blowing cool but not cold. Took it back, garage checked for leaks, said it was fine but topped up the gas anyway. All good for a day then blowing warm again. I then went to an air-con specialist who pressure tested it, injected dye into the system, inspected it with a UV light, couldn't see a problem so re-gassed it.

It's lasted 3 days and now it's blowing warm again. I'm booked in to him again tomorrow and hopefully this time he'll find the leak! If I get a solution tomorrow I'll post an update in the hope it might help you with your problem!
Same issue with mine, changed relay still warm, re-gas and worked for a day. Same place checked it over and couldn't find any leaks, they must have re-gased it as it's now working again but when I turn the AC on I can feel the car being held back if that makes sense ? Also have a strange whistle sound coming from the vents.......
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
97 Posts
Are the fans working as they should?
Mine are definitely working. I've replaced the relay, checked the compressor clutch, everything seems to be working as it should. I can hear the clutch engage when the A/C button is pressed, after each re-gassing the A/C pipes are cold. After a day or two the pipes remain warm with the A/C switched on.......to me this all points to a slow leak somewhere in the system?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
97 Posts
when I turn the AC on I can feel the car being held back if that makes sense ? .
I think I know what you mean........with the engine at idle and turning on the A/C the revs drop? I've always taken that as a guide that the compressor clutch has engaged so is putting a greater load on the engine hence the lower idle speed.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,467 Posts
Check faults on diagnostics or search in wiki how to see them with no special tool. Maybe problem with drivers side motor which controls temperature. Saw already few civics with same problem and motor was faulty one.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,833 Posts
I think I know what you mean........with the engine at idle and turning on the A/C the revs drop? I've always taken that as a guide that the compressor clutch has engaged so is putting a greater load on the engine hence the lower idle speed.
ive found this on other cars
but last year i thought my aircon had stopped working untill i placed a thermomitor on the air vent which prooved it was working well
now while testing i tried various things and main reason i suspected it had stopped working was no noticable difference in engine load on tick over when engaging the a/c switch
mines a 2.2 diesel so dont know if the petrol does drop in revs slightly but certainly mine dosnt even flicker when engaged
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
348 Posts
I think I know what you mean........with the engine at idle and turning on the A/C the revs drop? I've always taken that as a guide that the compressor clutch has engaged so is putting a greater load on the engine hence the lower idle speed.
I mean when driving at any speed if I turn it on then I can feel the car almost struggle, it never felt like that before when the air con was working.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Are the fans working as they should?
Mine are working fine too. Interior fans behave has expected. The rad/condenser fans seem fine. No fuse/relay issues but they don't often spin up. I get no cold air while driving either so even natural air flow over the condenser isn't enough.

Same issue with mine, changed relay still warm, re-gas and worked for a day. Same place checked it over and couldn't find any leaks, they must have re-gased it as it's now working again but when I turn the AC on I can feel the car being held back if that makes sense ? Also have a strange whistle sound coming from the vents.......
I mean when driving at any speed if I turn it on then I can feel the car almost struggle, it never felt like that before when the air con was working.....
AC will put minor extra load on the engine but the revs should rise slightly to compensate. In my 350Z for example, switch AC off at idle and revs drop by about 100rpm, switch it back on, back up it goes. At no point in either car has having the AC on ever felt like it sapped a significant power from the engine.
At a guess I'd think maybe your compressor is on the way out if its causing the engine to drag when switched on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Check faults on diagnostics or search in wiki how to see them with no special tool. Maybe problem with drivers side motor which controls temperature. Saw already few civics with same problem and motor was faulty one.
Is this this diagnostic you are referring to? (Cant link, too few posts)
"Other test:
Ignition OFF
Press and hold down the Auto and Recirculation buttons
Ignition into II position
Release the buttons

You'll see the "88" at the A/C temperature. If you see any segmentletter from A to P then it means an error message."

I did this and the screen flicked through a couple of things, set the blower to max for a few seconds then switched off with nothing but the clock displayed. Assume all's fine.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,467 Posts
Thats clima check. I ment diagnostic codes like P0xxx. Thread is cold read diagnostic coded with no special tool if I remember correctly.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
97 Posts
Let me know how you get on, hope it gets sorted for you :)
Dropped the car into the A/C specialist this morning. Just had a phone call and as suspected.......there's a leak! Condenser/dryer has a pinhole that's letting the gas escape so a new one is on its way. Hopefully it should be sorted by close of business today......just as the weather has turned to winter again! 😩😢
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Dropped the car into the A/C specialist this morning. Just had a phone call and as suspected.......there's a leak! Condenser/dryer has a pinhole that's letting the gas escape so a new one is on its way. Hopefully it should be sorted by close of business today......just as the weather has turned to winter again! 😩😢
Ah that's rubbish. Still at least its getting sorted ready for sum.....more rain.
Sounds like I better have a chat with my mechanic and see if its something they can do or if it needs to go to an AC specialist too.

Cheers for the update
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
97 Posts
Sounds like I better have a chat with my mechanic and see if its something they can do
The guy at the A/C place told me this is the fourth one he's done on a Civic in the past 2 weeks, apparently it's an easy fix once the leak has been found. A few bolts and clips and a couple of pipes.

Hope you get to the root of your problem and it doesn't get too expensive! 😢
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
The guy at the A/C place told me this is the fourth one he's done on a Civic in the past 2 weeks, apparently it's an easy fix once the leak has been found. A few bolts and clips and a couple of pipes.

Hope you get to the root of your problem and it doesn't get too expensive! 😢
That's good to know it's relatively easy. I'd do it myself if I could be 100% sure there was no gas in the system still.

Bloody thing has been a money pit the last few weeks. Adrian Flux tried to mug me off for £840 insurance renewal (thanks Sky for giving me a much more sensible figure), local garage charged me £133 for tracking adjustment and swapping over my tyres to summers. Partly my fault for not asking for price beforehand but bit of a di*k move to quote ExVAT price of tracking until it comes to pay up! Now AC...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
97 Posts
Bloody thing has been a money pit the last few weeks...
I know this feeling only too well! I've had the car just over a month now and I'm playing catch up on all the little niggles that the last owner obviously didn't bother with as he knew he was selling the car.

Nothing so far has been uber expensive to put right but at times I feel it's 'one step forward and three back'! Getting there slowly though! 😊
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
230 Posts
Although i dont recommend kwik fit for most things there are 2 things they are good for,one is aircon,they charge 49 quid,if it shows a leak or doesnt work theres no charge.
and the other is Hunter 4 wheel alignment.£40 if just the fronts want adjusting and i think 60 odd if all 4 need doing adjusting,if the rears are adjustable.They have screens in the office fed from the machine,i take pics of the before and after to make sure they have actually done it.
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top