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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey !
Can anybody explain me pleas how can one pad be complete gone and all other 3 are good ?
I changed it 4 month ago on the rear , now its gone. In last year as long as i have the car i changed rear pads 3 times ..
 

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Hey !
Can anybody explain me pleas how can one pad be complete gone and all other 3 are good ?
I changed it 4 month ago on the rear , now its gone. In last year as long as i have the car i changed rear pads 3 times ..
This taken from the Wiki -
On some cars, the rear brake pads can wear out much quicker than expected, and sometimes quicker than the front pads.
It might be recognisable by excess brake dust on the rear wheels.
One cause is an incorrectly adjusted handbrake, such that the handbrake is very slightly on. There should be a small but noticeable slack in the handbrake cable felt as you just start to pull the lever.
A dealer can adjust the handbrake accordingly.



Is it always the same pad that wears out first?
 

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Simple! being a mechanic I come across this issue all the time! may not be the caliper but the brake pad carrier or caliper slider! All of which you can do yourself if your confident/ experienced.
1, remove pads, remove the pad shims attached to the carrier (be careful not to bend too much- reshape upon refitment)
2, using a flat blade screw driver chisel/ scratch off all of the rust/ built up brake dust under and on the pad carrier + shim (where the pads sit) This is what normally causes the pads to stick and wear out, you need to make sure everything is clean and back to bear metal on every thing around where the pads sit!!
3, clean of the metal shims and press back on the carriers.
4, make sure the 'sliders' do just that! (sliders are where the caliper bolts onto) they must be able to move freely, if not just pull them out of the carrier and remove all the rust colored crap with wd40 and a rag- scrap out all of the rust and muck out of the carrier too not just the slider pin.
5, push the pin back into the carrier with loads of grease and push all the way in making sure the rubber gaiter is sealed properly
6, Make sure the caliper piston winds back into the caliper (a couple of turns will do, to make sure it isn't seized).
7, Clean pads with brake cleaner and put a small amount of copper grease only on the contact points of the pads (never put anything on the friction lining- keep clean!)
8, put some thread lock on any bolts and make sure you have double checked tightness and dont over tighten anything.

If you have done all of this properly, then you shouldn't have an issue. Some Technicians are lazy and just fit the pads without doing all of the above.

Fingers crossed for you.
 
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