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I'm looking to colour code my grille and fuel cap, i want to paint as appose to plasti-dip. Can anyone give me any advice, like what sand paper and primer to use?
 

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drives a shed now
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I'm looking to colour code my grille and fuel cap, i want to paint as appose to plasti-dip. Can anyone give me any advice, like what sand paper and primer to use?
As Jack suggested 600 to key it. Then plastic primer. Then a dusting of colour as a guide. You wet flat this back with 2500 grit to ensure scratches are gone from 'keying the surface'. Basically you should no longer see the dusted colour coat, and not have gone through the primer.
Then panel wipe and paint :)
 

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I'll try help as I'm a 12 year qualified professional painter, but ill have to think about the products available to you as opposed to the products you'll find in say Halfords. For example wet n dry hasn't been used in the trade for anything other than de-nibbing for donkeys years everything is dry sanded with dust extraction now as it makes a better job and is much cleaner.

My first question would be what colour are you going and what have you got to spray with, a compressor and guns or are you trying to do this with cellulose rattle cans?

Also do you have access to a DA? That's an orbital sander if the word DA means nothing.

The reason I ask is because round sanding discs that are designed to be used in an orbital motion are much more abravise when used by hand, sanding with a piece of 500 disc on a back and forth motion by hand for example put scratches on as deep as 240 grit on a DA so if you can only use your hands then either buy paper designed to be used by hand or use much less abrasive paper

To remove the texture from the plastic and make the surface ready to be painted use 400 on a DA or 600 if doing it by hand, 600 DA discs are not overly common though but they do exist

Then you need to use an adhesion promoter, this is basically a spray glue, unless metal where we can use an acid etch to help protect and adhere to the panel with plastic we need to use an adhesion promoter which is like a spray glue basically it glues the primer to the plastic

Whilst the adhesion promoter is still nice and tacky you then want to use a high build primer, if you are using rattle cans there isn't such a thing as a decent high build but Kent High build aerosols are the only ones that have any sort of build KENT product information however I have no idea if you will find them outside of the trade

You want plenty of primer on as you are going to rub a good bit of it off. Don't rush it though give it a decent bit of drying between coats and build up slowly, and whatever you do make sure it is nice and dry before sanding it, cellulose paint skins over so it can appear dry but still be wet under the top coat

Once dry you want to get some 400 foam backed sanding pads and guide coat, you spray or dust the guide coat on and rub until its nice and smooth basically, making sure you don't rub in little small areas or you make the surface rippeley, if you were doing a repair, I would tell you to use a block and blocking discs but on a grill and cap sanding with 400 foam backed pads is suffice.

Once you have achieved a smooth finish and your happy, grab a bit of grey scotch, prep and blend paste and get it wet and scotch it up to give a very even none scratched finish, this is very important especially with something like silver

Once you have done all that come back to me and ill fill you in on basecoat and clear
 

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You are welcome its hard to give information without sounding patronising as its not impossible but difficult to do a decent job without the correct tools..... and a bit of skill but not much usually hehe

Always happy to help someone paint something but its not always easy without the right environment and tools if you know what I mean
 

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drives a shed now
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I know what you mean. Was the same for me years ago trying to advise a weekend hammer warrior with a dent and rust hole :)
Cardboard and epoxy filler isn't the answer, and that claw hammer...nooo!

Decent finish can be achieved out of a pro environment, with the correct advise and a bit of skill and patience (and maybe a few new tools if cost permits)
 
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