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Discussion Starter #1
I`ve had my 2008 plate type r for close on 6 months now and always found the grip from the front end to be quite poor (especially in he wet).
I put this down to some unbranded low cost tyres that were on it when i purchased the car. I have now changed the tyres to Goodyear efficient grip performance but still feel like the front end lacks any real grip.It feels "floaty" (best way i can describe it).
I have no confidence with it in the wet after having a close miss a few days back when going round a bend at 30mph and it just ploughed straight on.
Tyres pressures are correct,i`ve been underneath it to see if i can see anything that would indicate a problem but cant see anything. After a bit of digging on the mot front i found that it said there was a advisory of wear on the steering rack 3 years ago and over 30,000mls ago.
Could this be the problem? I`d of though that would of been replaced at some point. The last owner lost all records of servicing from Honda but has a few receipts for work done in the last 2 years.I contacted Honda and they confirmed service history to 62,000mls the car now has 81,000mls.
Any thoughts would be great. I love the cars performance but this niggly problem is beginning to annoy me.
 

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Alignment and tracking ok?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I`ve not looked at that if i`m honest! Is that a Honda job or can my local garage do it? Funds are a bit tight at the moment.
 

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A laser wheel alignment is usually between 50 and 80 quid, ring some tyre fitters. Maybe mention your problem as free advice can be useful. It's what I'd do. Was the steering rack on the later mot advisory list? Perhaps a previous owner got it sorted? If you're not sure it's best to get it checked!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Is steering rack wear a common fault on the civic`s? I`ve had cars with close on 200,000mls on the clock and never had any issues. Just checked again and here`s what the advisory said on the 2014-2015 mot. Play in steering rack inner joint(s). Nothing on the latest mot regarding that issue though.
 

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I believe there were issues with the ep3, not heard too much about the fn2. Do you get a clunking sound?
Also, does the car have standard springs, or coilovers?
 

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Is the card totally OEM, at least in terms of suspension, geometry, chassis, etc.?
To be brutally honest, I have found my (fully healthy) stock '09 dissapointingly understeery in tight corners, especially in the wet.
Now, with Quaife LSD, Eibach Pro kit -15 mm springs, FRSU and rear Antiroll bar car is TOTALLY transformed in terms of handling, I am often amazed how quickly it can fly through the corners.
People often start with powahhhh! but, in my opinion, what this car needs in the first place is proper handling settings.
I def recommend each and every one of these mods, but if were to pick one, limited slip diff is the most noticeable hands down in terms of slow corner traction - fn2 with open diff plow straight on when poked out of a bend, the one with locker just grabs the tires and pulls you out of trouble almost like good AWD ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The car is completely standard as far as i know. I`ll get the tracking and alignment looked at and hopefully that will make things better.Hoping its not a steering rack issue as that sounds expensive.
 

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Only time I drove a car with a dodgy steering rack the steering wheel was harder to turn to the right slightly and it clunked.

At speed it was OK, I'd get alignment checked. Without mods the car does understeer more than I anticipated.

A FRS alignment and lowering sorted that out along with new droplinks.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the advice guys. I`ll get it tracking etc done and hopefully it`ll sort it! Anyone know the cost of a steering rack if the worst happens?
 

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My car as standard was quite twitchy around bends, compounded by our crap roads. I put a c pillar strut brace in (£70) and noticed an immediate improvement. This over time was followed by aftermarket springs and new droplinks. Each modification improved it.
 

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How are you dampers? Have they covered lots of hard miles?

What size/profile/width tyres are you running, OEM?
 

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Thanks for the advice guys. I`ll get it tracking etc done and hopefully it`ll sort it! Anyone know the cost of a steering rack if the worst happens?
£600-800 for recon - fitted (cheaper if you risk used or eBay)
£1500 + new
 

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Discussion Starter #14
WOW! The car will be sold if thats the outcome. Not got that sort of money. Plus i`ll be complaining to the MOT station as well as if the previous mot picked up on it as an advisory and they did`nt on the latest one i want to know why!
As for dampers i have`nt a clue. I`ve had the car 6 months and only covered 1500mls in that time. I don`t go for all the modding etc purely due to funds.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I have very little like i said. I contacted Honda about service history all they could confirm was service history.I have no bills showing anything but normal services etc.Nothing but oil changes and usual sundries.
 

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First thing I would do would be check for play in the steering. This is easy and something you can do yourself in an hour.

First get a friend to turn the steering wheel while you watch the wheels. There should be virtually no play/slack from when they turn the steering wheel to when you see the road wheel move (stand on the drivers side so you can see both road wheel and steering wheel).

Second jack the front end up so both wheels are off the ground - it must be both. Grab the road wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock and try to move it. If you feel play/movement you may have a problem with the steering. Don't forget to have the key in the ignition or you will feel a clunk from the steering lock. Check both sides. Play on both sides suggests a steering rack problem. Play on one side suggests a track rod could worn. To check this simply wiggle the road wheel while holding the track rod joint. You should feel a slight movement (clonk) in the joint if it's worn (I'm sure there are YouTube videos on how do this - they are all pretty much the same).

MOT test advisories should be taken with some caution. I've seen many which are simply down to an inexperienced tester (including my own!) like having the steering wheel lock on!!

If all seems mechanically good you have three options:

1) examine how you drive - do you put the power on too early in the wet - i.e. are you just wheel spinning
2) put better tyres on. Many "premium brands are no better than mid-priced tyres IMO. Falkens work very well in the wet, but the best by far are Yokohamas. They stick like glue, but only last 5k.
3) You are pushing the car to limits of what it can do. In which case spend, spend, spend! New dampers, struts and shocks all make a difference. Just depends on how much you want to spend.
 

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I have Pirelli P Zero Nero GT as in stock car and never had any problem with understeer (for a FWD car). It was pretty snappy on lift offs if anything - untill i fit wheel spacers - since that its very good planted and rest of the suspension is stock. FN2 is a great car in stock form and can be pretty fast in good hands.
If suspension is all ok, there is no play and alignment is ok then maybe driving technique needs looking at - FWD cars on wet needs either smooth entry, or positive (not too much) throttle - otherwise it will go out. Other option is left foot breaking but you need to have pretty **** tires if you are forced to do this during normal road use. I will say it's your tires.
 

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I'd say Goodyear Efficient Grip are the wrong tyres - aren't they designed to lower rolling resistsnce and save fuel? Goodyear Eagle F1s are the one to go for on the FN2 as they're more about grip. Might be as simple as that.
 
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