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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

I hope someone can shed some light on this so I have half an idea what to expect when I get his looked at.

Basically I've noticed over the last few weeks that the car has started pulling to the right under braking. A few heavy braking sessions seems to clear it up for a bit, but today there seemed to be a droning kind of noise at around 50-55mph.

Also I checked the disc temps when I got home after an hour on the motorway and all the other discs were cool or at least only warm to the touch, but the drivers side was burning hot (Literally!)

I assume that is something to do with the calliper not releasing fully??

Thanks,
Andrew
 

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Non-mechanic here, but that's what I'd assume as well.
As / when the callipers are checked, certainly check the pads - that'll give a good indication.
If little difference, then perhaps check the bearings while you're at it??

Al.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I didn't have to time to strip everything down today, but did get the car up on the jack. The drivers side wheel was extremely difficult to rotate by hand compared to the passenger side, so I guess this confirms the caliper is sticking?

The discs and pads look pretty shot as well so if I decide to try to sort this myself I guess I might as well have a go at replacing those too.

What should I look out for or what problems am I likely to come across as a result of the caliper sticking?

Thanks for your help atom & tristan.
 
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Stuck sliding pins, often makes the wear of the pads become uneven, and it takes allot of braking power out of the caliper, so it needs to be fixed asap.

Sliding pins that are stuck, can be hard to remove, I ended up using WD40, allot of heat and a lot of power :)
It was impossible to remove the pin when fitted to the axle , so I took the lintier brake system of, and worked with in the working unit.

Important to clean the pins and holes really good and use some silicone grease made for sliding pins.

Check the how to like this

http://www.civinfo.com/forum/how/32557-how-replace-front-brake-discs-brake-pads.html
 

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Which wheel? Front or rear? As said above, check the slider pins first. Lubricate them with SILICONE grease.

It could also be a seized piston or the brake pad metal backing stuck in the carrier. Some aftermarket pads require fettling with a file before they will fit in the carrier properly. Some ham fisted mechanics don't bother and force them in.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Which wheel? Front or rear? As said above, check the slider pins first. Lubricate them with SILICONE grease.

It could also be a seized piston or the brake pad metal backing stuck in the carrier. Some aftermarket pads require fettling with a file before they will fit in the carrier properly. Some ham fisted mechanics don't bother and force them in.
It's the front. It looks like the the pads have Apec branding them??

Anyway going to get a few quotes locally to see how it compares to DIY then go from there. Thanks for all your help and suggestions chaps :)
 

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I find that practically all brake pads need to have the edges filed/ground down a little so the pads don't bind. Like hondacivicnut I'm concerned that too many mechanics and DIYers just force new pads in without assessing how well they actually fit... all may seem fine for a while, but the slightest bit of corrosion or dirt will then result in the pad seizing in its sliding surface.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Okay, so I didn't feel confident to tackle this myself, so took it to get the discs & pads changed yesterday and had them inspect the brakes whilst they were changing those over. They reckoned they found nothing physically wrong including the sliders and piston and they didn't seem to think the pads had been sticking either. They said they saw only a 5 degree temperature difference between the 2 front discs after a 15 mile run.

I took the car car out last night for about 8 miles and although better then it was before, the drivers side disc is still a lot hotter than the passenger side, it feels much more than a 5 degree difference to me. It's not as hot as before but still too hot to touch. Over the last fortnight my average MPG had dropped from about 28-29 to only 24, but on the run last night it had started creeping up again, so something has obviously improved.

The garage is now saying that the only option is the replace the whole caliper, but obviously I don't want to go down this route unless I have to. They've quoted £155 to replace the caliper, but looking at the prices on Lings I'm assuming this is for a pattern part rather than genuine Honda. :(

Any other thoughts? Am I making too much of this?
 

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Can you jack the car up after a run to see if the wheel runs free, there will be a little resistance but too much is no good and could lead to lock up on one side which is bad.

If you don't feel confident in doing any work yourself the leave it to a workshop or do you know someone who can help. Personally I would dismantle the caliper, clean, re grease the piston (a tiny amount) or complete reseal if available. If the piston doesn't return freely using a g clamp it could be the flexible section of pipe or the master cylinder not allowing enough fluid into the reservoir.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=gKkX_0rZFks
 

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my experience with honda callipers it's usually corrosion on the calliper piston which causes the brakes to bind the sliding pins seizing tend to cause uneven pad wear ( as already mentioned by mike42dk ) but don't usually cause the pads to bind
sticking pads caused by crap / corrosion on the pad guides might cause a little binding but not enough to really make a lot of difference nowhere near the amount a sticking / seized piston causes

a corroded piston ( pits of rust round the outside of the piston ) usually shows when the brake pads are worn and seems to correct itself when new pads are fitted and the cycle starts again when the pads become worn again
to check the piston you need to remove the pads and pull back the rubber dust jacket then carefully push the piston out but not enough to pop it out of it's housing and check for rust pitting on the outside surface

the cure is to replace the pistons which can be bought separately from place like brakes international

Brake Parts | BrakeParts.co.uk

replacing the piston seals is always recommended at the same time

what is mentioned above might not be your problem but it was what was causing my brakes to bind

another cause but not that common can be a collapsed flexi hose but iv'e only ever seen this once and took a while to work out what the hell was going on as everything seems normal and only showed after driving a short while
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for your replies!

I've just jacked up both sides to compare and the passenger side wheel does rotate more freely than the drivers side, but there's not a lot in it. I've got an extended warranty from when I bought the car last August, but the wording is a bit ambiguous (as always) so I'm going to check whether the caliper is covered on Monday. If not I think I'll have a go at re-building the caliper with a new piston and seals. Thanks cosmicma
 

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Just put a new caliper on it mate.

One thing to check, take the caliper off, pump the piston out a little, GENTLY pull the piston seal back and check for corrosion down the side of the piston.
 

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Thanks for your replies!

I've just jacked up both sides to compare and the passenger side wheel does rotate more freely than the drivers side, but there's not a lot in it. I've got an extended warranty from when I bought the car last August, but the wording is a bit ambiguous (as always) so I'm going to check whether the caliper is covered on Monday. If not I think I'll have a go at re-building the caliper with a new piston and seals. Thanks cosmicma
My drivers side caliper recently seized up and it wasn't covered under the extended warranty.
 
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