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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,
Unfortunately last year my FN1 got Written off by a carless driver :(.

I have been debating with myself whether to by a CTR.
I have driven an EP3 and enjoyed it but cant get onboard with the looks they don't do anything for me.

Is there anything I should be looking out for, ill probably be looking for a model around 65k - 80K mileage. I know that they require a big service around the 75k mark which can be expensive.

Any information about the CTR ownership would be great, day to day driving ect, fuel economy and maintenance costs ect.

This would be my first 'performance' car so I am quite excited. Any other hot hatch suggestions would also be cool

Cheers
Velly
 

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2010 Milano Red FN2 Type R GT #R22063
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There's a few golden rules, check for water in the boot (the bottom boot space under the floor can fill with water), check the condition of the paintwork (especially if it's Milano Red) along the top of the windscreen as they had an issue where the windscreen seal cut into the soft paint leading to roof rust. Check the dampers and springs, they ride quite harshly even when brand new, (if you're coming from something more domesticated like a Focus or Golf) so take a heck of a lot of punishment so you want them to be right. Servicing is the watchword when it comes to mechanical condition. It must have had a regular oil change, as the high revving nature of the FN2 demands the oil be good enough to let it go without letting it down. Check the tyres, a good indicator of someone being a cheapskate is if the tyres don't match or are some god-awful chinese tosh. If they've skimped on tyres, they almost certainly have skimped on things like servicing. The car has a valve check done every 25,000 miles. This has a seperate stamp in the service book (page 56 I think?), and you want to see that for proof if they don't have receipts. Gearbox oil is every 40 - 50k, from memory, the stamp for that is on the same page as the valve check. The car has a really small battery, so be wary of ones that have stood for a while and need a jumpstart. They don't have amazing brakes as standard (barely enough for the 200BHP if we're honest), so you may want to take it easy until you're used to the brakes before hammering it. The SatNav has a current bug whereby they don't show the correct time and date (this is a database error, Honda made a rare mistake) and a fix in the works, but it may be quite some time, It still works ok and the rest of the car is unaffected.

Running costs, expect to add about 500ml of 0w20 in-between each service if you're doing the mileage, and MPG will be anything between 25 and 40 depending on road, distance and weight of your right foot. I use mine as a daily, doing about 1,500 a week, and I've got 44MPG out of mine, but thats with the cruise control set to 60 and travelling down the M1 at 05:00. It doesn't care if you use E10 or E5 unleaded, but most of us either use E5 or mix the two to keep the ethanol content down in the tank.

Ownership? Get ready to kick yourself for not having one before. I've owned a lot of cars, some faster than this, a lot slower, and almost all of them less stiff on ride, but none of them have been as infectious to drive. The only two I'd put above this of cars I've previously owned are my A70 Supra or my Range Rover Vogue SE. It's fast, it's agile and it's so reliable I'm not sure if Honda aren't secretly pre-fixing it at night without my knowing. Look after it, put good quality parts on it, and let it warm up (15-20 minutes) before playing with the VTec so the oil is good and ready, and it'll be the last car you need to buy. Some things will wear out, but by and large, they're hewn from granite.

TLDR: Look for cars with lots of regular service history, a car that's done 120k and has a folder of paperwork is a better buy than one with 40k and nothing. Don't run it on a shoestring, and let it warm up before giving it the beans.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
There's a few golden rules, check for water in the boot (the bottom boot space under the floor can fill with water), check the condition of the paintwork (especially if it's Milano Red) along the top of the windscreen as they had an issue where the windscreen seal cut into the soft paint leading to roof rust. Check the dampers and springs, they ride quite harshly even when brand new, (if you're coming from something more domesticated like a Focus or Golf) so take a heck of a lot of punishment so you want them to be right. Servicing is the watchword when it comes to mechanical condition. It must have had a regular oil change, as the high revving nature of the FN2 demands the oil be good enough to let it go without letting it down. Check the tyres, a good indicator of someone being a cheapskate is if the tyres don't match or are some god-awful chinese tosh. If they've skimped on tyres, they almost certainly have skimped on things like servicing. The car has a valve check done every 25,000 miles. This has a seperate stamp in the service book (page 56 I think?), and you want to see that for proof if they don't have receipts. Gearbox oil is every 40 - 50k, from memory, the stamp for that is on the same page as the valve check. The car has a really small battery, so be wary of ones that have stood for a while and need a jumpstart. They don't have amazing brakes as standard (barely enough for the 200BHP if we're honest), so you may want to take it easy until you're used to the brakes before hammering it. The SatNav has a current bug whereby they don't show the correct time and date (this is a database error, Honda made a rare mistake) and a fix in the works, but it may be quite some time, It still works ok and the rest of the car is unaffected.

Running costs, expect to add about 500ml of 0w20 in-between each service if you're doing the mileage, and MPG will be anything between 25 and 40 depending on road, distance and weight of your right foot. I use mine as a daily, doing about 1,500 a week, and I've got 44MPG out of mine, but thats with the cruise control set to 60 and travelling down the M1 at 05:00. It doesn't care if you use E10 or E5 unleaded, but most of us either use E5 or mix the two to keep the ethanol content down in the tank.

Ownership? Get ready to kick yourself for not having one before. I've owned a lot of cars, some faster than this, a lot slower, and almost all of them less stiff on ride, but none of them have been as infectious to drive. The only two I'd put above this of cars I've previously owned are my A70 Supra or my Range Rover Vogue SE. It's fast, it's agile and it's so reliable I'm not sure if Honda aren't secretly pre-fixing it at night without my knowing. Look after it, put good quality parts on it, and let it warm up (15-20 minutes) before playing with the VTec so the oil is good and ready, and it'll be the last car you need to buy. Some things will wear out, but by and large, they're hewn from granite.

TLDR: Look for cars with lots of regular service history, a car that's done 120k and has a folder of paperwork is a better buy than one with 40k and nothing. Don't run it on a shoestring, and let it warm up before giving it the beans.
Wow this extremely helpful Squibble!

I had a 1.4 civic SI previously. I loved it but didn't have the punch I was after. All the things that went wrong with mine was what I tampered with.

Im hoping to look at one with 78k on the clock 11stamps in the service book. Its in the alabaster silver and has a few bits of wear and tear (hole in the carpet, plastic trim not quite lining up on the front bumper and some clips missing in the engine bay.

It looks tidy enough but ill try keep in mind what you said, hopefully ill get to take it out for a test drive too.

Thanks again its really appreciated
 

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2010 Milano Red FN2 Type R GT #R22063
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Wow this extremely helpful Squibble!

I had a 1.4 civic SI previously. I loved it but didn't have the punch I was after. All the things that went wrong with mine was what I tampered with.

Im hoping to look at one with 78k on the clock 11stamps in the service book. Its in the alabaster silver and has a few bits of wear and tear (hole in the carpet, plastic trim not quite lining up on the front bumper and some clips missing in the engine bay.

It looks tidy enough but ill try keep in mind what you said, hopefully ill get to take it out for a test drive too.

Thanks again its really appreciated
Then you've met half the Civic issues already. Expect it to be a bit stiffer than your Si, and feel fractionally faster off the VTec. My Partner has a 1.4 Type S, and is the reason why I bought my FN2. I was really impressed with how good it was for a relatively small engine. Brakes wise, you'll swear your old Si had better brakes than the FN2, but that's only because the car is a bit heavier and the speed difference is higher.

I'd be cautious of expecting "punch", as even the Type R lacks torque, you have to drive it like your 1.4 and get up the rev range to find the reason why the R deserves the respect it gets.

Edit: I'm guessing it's HY58WHK on Autotrader? Check over the previous failures on the MOT at What is the vehicle's registration number - MOT History. It's had a few things mentioned in the last 2 or 3 years to do with suspension and brake components. Try and see if they have receipts for the work that was done, things like shock absorbers and brakes are not something you want to have been done with E-bay parts. Looks like you're going to need to anticipate a little bit of additional cost to get it 100%, but hopefully not too much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Then you've met half the Civic issues already. Expect it to be a bit stiffer than your Si, and feel fractionally faster off the VTec. My Partner has a 1.4 Type S, and is the reason why I bought my FN2. I was really impressed with how good it was for a relatively small engine. Brakes wise, you'll swear your old Si had better brakes than the FN2, but that's only because the car is a bit heavier and the speed difference is higher.

I'd be cautious of expecting "punch", as even the Type R lacks torque, you have to drive it like your 1.4 and get up the rev range to find the reason why the R deserves the respect it gets.
The real interest in a CTR is I am after something that doesn't require revving around town and I found myself in the 1.4 revving the crap out of it on roads anywhere above 50mph, it was a bit like a hair dryer trying to overtake sometimes.

I know these cars are happiest above 5500 rpm and like to be kept on the boil, which is great on a spirited drive but I do want a bit of a easier time round town. From what I remember the EP3 I drove was nice enough round town but gave me that buzz as soon as I got it on some twisty roads.

The car is mainly going to be used for seeing friends and weekend drives so id be fine with a stiffer ride but as mentioned previously I don't want to be revving the nuts off it when pulling away and day to day driving.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ive also got some bits kicking round from the 1.4 which I am reluctant to sell as I know if I do ill probably end up buying another civic shortly after
 

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The real interest in a CTR is I am after something that doesn't require revving around town and I found myself in the 1.4 revving the crap out of it on roads anywhere above 50mph, it was a bit like a hair dryer trying to overtake sometimes.

I know these cars are happiest above 5500 rpm and like to be kept on the boil, which is great on a spirited drive but I do want a bit of a easier time round town. From what I remember the EP3 I drove was nice enough round town but gave me that buzz as soon as I got it on some twisty roads.

The car is mainly going to be used for seeing friends and weekend drives so id be fine with a stiffer ride but as mentioned previously I don't want to be revving the nuts off it when pulling away and day to day driving.
Oh it has enough pull for town driving and tootling around, it's quiet and civilised (apart from the stiffness) and just feels light in the hands. The seats are surprisingly comfortable too, so long as you can fit between the side bolsters. BTW, you may want to read up, I'm not sure if you saw my eddit to my previous post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Then you've met half the Civic issues already. Expect it to be a bit stiffer than your Si, and feel fractionally faster off the VTec. My Partner has a 1.4 Type S, and is the reason why I bought my FN2. I was really impressed with how good it was for a relatively small engine. Brakes wise, you'll swear your old Si had better brakes than the FN2, but that's only because the car is a bit heavier and the speed difference is higher.

I'd be cautious of expecting "punch", as even the Type R lacks torque, you have to drive it like your 1.4 and get up the rev range to find the reason why the R deserves the respect it gets.

Edit: I'm guessing it's HY58WHK on Autotrader? Check over the previous failures on the MOT at What is the vehicle's registration number - MOT History. It's had a few things mentioned in the last 2 or 3 years to do with suspension and brake components. Try and see if they have receipts for the work that was done, things like shock absorbers and brakes are not something you want to have been done with E-bay parts. Looks like you're going to need to anticipate a little bit of additional cost to get it 100%, but hopefully not too much.
The real interest in a CTR is I am after something that doesn't require revving around town and I found myself in the 1.4 revving the crap out of it on roads anywhere above 50mph, it was a bit like a hair dryer trying to overtake sometimes.

I know these cars are happiest above 5500 rpm and like to be kept on the boil, which is great on a spirited drive but I do want a bit of a easier time round town. From what I remember the EP3 I drove was nice enough round town but gave me that buzz as soon as I got it on some twisty roads.

The car is mainly going to be used for seeing friends and weekend drives so id be fine with a stiffer ride but as mentioned previously I don't want to be revving the nuts off it when pulling away and day to day driving.
Ah no its actually another on autotrader, REG RO09TZER, Here check it out.

I think its history wasn't too bad might to another check as I cant remember now.
 

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I think @Squibble has done a good job of selling you an FN2 and given all the advice you will need.
Just look it over in the same way you would with any used car, service history is key, doesn't have to be Honda.
Make sure you understand the running costs as tax is £340+ a year, MPG will be in the low 30s most of the time & insurance could be stiff depending on your details.

check this out too for some specifics: FN2 - Buying guide/check list for the FN2 Civic Type R
 

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Ah no its actually another on autotrader, REG RO09TZER, Here check it out.

I think its history wasn't too bad might to another check as I cant remember now.
RO09TZR, Recent history looks good, had a bit of a bad patch in 2015, where it acquired a steering knock which was then mentioned on three consecutive MOTs, presumably it's fixed now so there ought to be a receipt for a new rack or some associated bushes. Again, check the paperwork, but this car looks like a much better one than the one I thought it was. As @Wilmo says, consider all your costs, not just MPG, but I'm hoping that's already been factored in. All that aside, I hope it's as good or better than it looks, and that the next post is you showing off your newly acquired FN2!

Oh and don't worry if this one turns out to be a dog (not that I think it will), there's still plenty of them out there. Don't force yourself to buy one that needs more doing than you're comfortable fixing out of fear you'll miss out.
 
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