Random misfire on all cylinders
Engine
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5 Posts
Hi guys, i have the same problem with a civic r18a2
Doing the same identical tests as SVILEN DI
Having another identical engine and after exchanging all the sensors I decided to put the engine block underneath.
result?
At 2500-3000 rpm comes the same problem (and I'm sure the engine mounted on a civic sedan fd7 worked great)
Then the problem and the wiring harness, I found another error in the body computer, that is, the lack of CAM fast communication.
So I decided to disassemble the front of the machine to see if some wiring was damaged.
Until today I have not found any solutions (they are 7 months that I have the car here)
I was hoping to find help here in the forum .. I have perfectly understood that are very rare problems to solve.
Doing the same identical tests as SVILEN DI
Having another identical engine and after exchanging all the sensors I decided to put the engine block underneath.
result?
At 2500-3000 rpm comes the same problem (and I'm sure the engine mounted on a civic sedan fd7 worked great)
Then the problem and the wiring harness, I found another error in the body computer, that is, the lack of CAM fast communication.
So I decided to disassemble the front of the machine to see if some wiring was damaged.
Until today I have not found any solutions (they are 7 months that I have the car here)
I was hoping to find help here in the forum .. I have perfectly understood that are very rare problems to solve.
Hi Davide,
I have (probably) managed to solve this. I'm not having any check engine flash lights or random misfire error codes from almost 3 months now. Car is running just fine now, my mechanic said he cleaned (once again) all 4 injectors and it seems to work perfectly. Only thing that I had occasionally was the tank sensor not showing correctly after having filled up 10-20 litters (was showing still the same amount of fuel in the red zone, like I haven't filled anything). So we were thinking the problem (random misfire) may be related to the fuel filter as it may infect the whole fuel flow and additionaly the fuel tank sensor is also laying on it. Hope that helps!
I have (probably) managed to solve this. I'm not having any check engine flash lights or random misfire error codes from almost 3 months now. Car is running just fine now, my mechanic said he cleaned (once again) all 4 injectors and it seems to work perfectly. Only thing that I had occasionally was the tank sensor not showing correctly after having filled up 10-20 litters (was showing still the same amount of fuel in the red zone, like I haven't filled anything). So we were thinking the problem (random misfire) may be related to the fuel filter as it may infect the whole fuel flow and additionaly the fuel tank sensor is also laying on it. Hope that helps!
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5 Posts
hi svilen,
yeah,i change 2 pump(complete with pressur regulator)..no results
i leeave the fk3 in the scrapyard..this is the end:smile3:
yeah,i change 2 pump(complete with pressur regulator)..no results
i leeave the fk3 in the scrapyard..this is the end:smile3:
Joined
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18,080 Posts
I've just seen your other post about jump starting/immobiliser lock out.
Also beware that if you whack the dashboard too hard (in frustration) then you may well trip the fuel cut off switch, under the drivers side dashboard
- this can easily be reset, check the forum for a quick 'How To' guide.
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5 Posts
oh thanks,I've just seen your other post about jump starting/immobiliser lock out.
Also beware that if you whack the dashboard too hard (in frustration) then you may well trip the fuel cut off switch, under the drivers side dashboard
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1 Posts
maybe wiring
I have the same problem ( EU civic - same engine R18a ) i went to electrician an he find an engine cuts of at 3500 rpm ( when normal engine mode starts ) but i dont want to search more becouse he said it could cost 250€ +.... so there is a suggestion - something interrupts the ignition when engine came to first vtec point ( from eco mode to normal engine mode ) this is about 3500 rpm..... maybe someone find this error and tell us more about... my mechanic said it was something on wiring or ecu ( becouse i have LPG installed )
sorry for my english i am from slovenia ( Europe )
i hope this post will help.
greets
I have the same problem ( EU civic - same engine R18a ) i went to electrician an he find an engine cuts of at 3500 rpm ( when normal engine mode starts ) but i dont want to search more becouse he said it could cost 250€ +.... so there is a suggestion - something interrupts the ignition when engine came to first vtec point ( from eco mode to normal engine mode ) this is about 3500 rpm..... maybe someone find this error and tell us more about... my mechanic said it was something on wiring or ecu ( becouse i have LPG installed )
sorry for my english i am from slovenia ( Europe )
i hope this post will help.
greets
Hi all,
I know this is an old thread but hoping if anybody was successful in solving this problem. I have exact same issue with my 2009 Honda stream rn6 using same R18A engine as the civic. Misfire on all 4 cylinders during idie when holding 3.5k rpm.
Most of the mechanical checks suggested here done execpt ECU which is what workshop plan to do next. Btw i am from Singapore so pardon me if my English is not perfect
Car response also seems affected as doesn't accelerate smoothly most times. Seems to have lethargic pick up and affecting the fuel consumption. But on rare occasion it can be quite responsive for few days then seem to slowly get lethargic again.
Hope someone can help point to correct direction to fix this issue
Thanks
I know this is an old thread but hoping if anybody was successful in solving this problem. I have exact same issue with my 2009 Honda stream rn6 using same R18A engine as the civic. Misfire on all 4 cylinders during idie when holding 3.5k rpm.
Most of the mechanical checks suggested here done execpt ECU which is what workshop plan to do next. Btw i am from Singapore so pardon me if my English is not perfect
Car response also seems affected as doesn't accelerate smoothly most times. Seems to have lethargic pick up and affecting the fuel consumption. But on rare occasion it can be quite responsive for few days then seem to slowly get lethargic again.
Hope someone can help point to correct direction to fix this issue
Thanks
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2 Posts
Just saw this page and was reading through most of it. Was the issue resolved? I had an issue very similar to this and I found the head gasket to seeping coolant into the number three cylinder causing it to misfire. Mostly on a restart after sitting for several hours.
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3 Posts
Solved (for me)
I've followed almost every suggestion on here, changed plugs, coil packs, EGR valve, countless sensors and even the tensioner pulley.
The problem was glaring from the start, everyone says the problem occurs at 3500rpm, this is when the VTEC disengages.
Solution : Replaced VTEC Unit / Spool Valve assembly Part Number : 15810-RNA-A01 with genuine Honda Part
* I replaced the VTEC Unit / Spool Valve assembly previously with a cheap refurb that looked brand new and it didnt work, they use cheap generic oil sensors.( avoid at all costs - waste of time and money)
I hope this helps someone .
I've followed almost every suggestion on here, changed plugs, coil packs, EGR valve, countless sensors and even the tensioner pulley.
The problem was glaring from the start, everyone says the problem occurs at 3500rpm, this is when the VTEC disengages.
Solution : Replaced VTEC Unit / Spool Valve assembly Part Number : 15810-RNA-A01 with genuine Honda Part
* I replaced the VTEC Unit / Spool Valve assembly previously with a cheap refurb that looked brand new and it didnt work, they use cheap generic oil sensors.( avoid at all costs - waste of time and money)
I hope this helps someone .
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1 Posts
What is being missed is it is likely not a misfire but a crank speed fluctuation caused from something else. Try removing the accessory belt and see if the misfire disappears. Dont run it too long, as it also drives the coolant pump.
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3 Posts
Ok, so the VTEC did not solve the problem. I guess i didnt really test it properly cos the car was barely used during the pandemic.
Back so square one ! For me it only really triggers around 3500rpm.
I have to start replying to forums because they help me immensely, and I always find the ones after the “couldn’t fix, to the scrap yard it went”
If you still have this problem, this is for you.
06 Ex, R18A1
Needed a motor, but after all of that, and then some…
Same issue, idles relatively fine. Revs to 5k when parked.
No limp mode. CEL for ECT, but not flashing.
Pull off, rev too hard, flashing CEL, limp mode, will not rev pass 3500rpm. Shifts funny. No power. Won’t crack vtec (not very exciting on a R18). If I baby it from A to B, I can keep it from going into limp, since I’m not asking the car for too much of anything yet. It’ll go into limp at 2500 or 3500.
Thinking my plugs or coils, changed them, problem went away for a good 10 miles. Random misfire, limp mode. Check coils, okay they were loose but maybe that’s just a fluke (my fault), torque em down. Turn car off, let it get out of limp mode, tested again. Boom limp mode.
So 8 bad spark plugs and 8 bad coils? (Not included the sets before all of those) The odds are not in favor.
FUEL INJECTORS, FI, FI, FI!
The stock fuel injectors on the R18, are absolutely horrendous and very sensitive. My rule now (for this model and motor) if you take the fuel injector out, and it’s good, it’s now bad. If you replaced your fuel injectors with scrapyard fuel injectors, 90% chance they are bad. If your two 10mm nuts on your fuel rail are not properly torque down or missing, your fuel injectors will react accordingly. Either buy 4 brand new injectors, put them in correctly and never take them out, change the seals, and test them, (compressed air is your friend here) or do trial and error with your injector collection and cross your fingers. In one instance, 2 of my fuel injectors provide a nice ‘mist’ while the other 2 are just barely getting it out. It’s there, sure, but as soon as the request is sent for a little bit more, they lose rhythm, and cause a miss. One or two misses might not kick it, but enough misses in a certain period of time, limp mode.
For you other go getters, if you stumble across this issues after doing some work, and your car will not start after having random misfires, it bogs, cranks no start, runs for 3 seconds and turns off, check your evap line running along your intake boot. Make sure you didn’t mix up your evap purge line, and your cooling line.
(Yes, they look the exact same, I did it, regretted it, next)
Despite having no return line to worry about. You will dump 2 gallons of coolant into your fuel tank. It will sink to the bottom, completely ruin your fuel injectors, and corrupt your fuel system. Check this by pulling fuel rail hose off (relieve pressure) and look for tint to the fuel color. If it’s green, you’re wrong, if it’s that booboo orange coolant color, you’re wrong. Drain and clean your fuel tank, scrap your fuel pump (or change the filter but I rec scrap it all), swap your rail, and your injectors, take everything out and crank motor with no plugs to get whatever contaminated fuel out of the cylinders. Consider replacing your spark plugs, if they get coated with antifreeze from bad fuel injectors, in a perfect world you might be able to torch them back to life, but in practicality, they will have also bit the dust. You’ll know because you won’t get any action off of starter fluid.
If you compression test, and you’re hitting high numbers, 200-210, you might have a coat of antifreeze on top of your pistons. Either your head-gasket is leaking, or your fuel injectors are spitting antifreeze. Get it out.
I’m getting 30 miles per gallon out of this bad boy. It was an absolute nightmare to get it going. I have taken every system apart, tested everything. CPS. TPS. MAP. VTEC SOLENOID. BELT. TIMING. COMPRESSION.
Some more things you can’t even find on the internet just for good measures. Don’t be me.
There is one forum I found with someone with the exact issue, and I’m here because I lost that forum and it helped point me in the right direction, despite OP scrapping the car.
Get new injectors. Pass it on. You’re Welcome and Good Luck.
This thread is very concise. Thanks OP
If you still have this problem, this is for you.
06 Ex, R18A1
Needed a motor, but after all of that, and then some…
Same issue, idles relatively fine. Revs to 5k when parked.
No limp mode. CEL for ECT, but not flashing.
Pull off, rev too hard, flashing CEL, limp mode, will not rev pass 3500rpm. Shifts funny. No power. Won’t crack vtec (not very exciting on a R18). If I baby it from A to B, I can keep it from going into limp, since I’m not asking the car for too much of anything yet. It’ll go into limp at 2500 or 3500.
Thinking my plugs or coils, changed them, problem went away for a good 10 miles. Random misfire, limp mode. Check coils, okay they were loose but maybe that’s just a fluke (my fault), torque em down. Turn car off, let it get out of limp mode, tested again. Boom limp mode.
So 8 bad spark plugs and 8 bad coils? (Not included the sets before all of those) The odds are not in favor.
FUEL INJECTORS, FI, FI, FI!
The stock fuel injectors on the R18, are absolutely horrendous and very sensitive. My rule now (for this model and motor) if you take the fuel injector out, and it’s good, it’s now bad. If you replaced your fuel injectors with scrapyard fuel injectors, 90% chance they are bad. If your two 10mm nuts on your fuel rail are not properly torque down or missing, your fuel injectors will react accordingly. Either buy 4 brand new injectors, put them in correctly and never take them out, change the seals, and test them, (compressed air is your friend here) or do trial and error with your injector collection and cross your fingers. In one instance, 2 of my fuel injectors provide a nice ‘mist’ while the other 2 are just barely getting it out. It’s there, sure, but as soon as the request is sent for a little bit more, they lose rhythm, and cause a miss. One or two misses might not kick it, but enough misses in a certain period of time, limp mode.
For you other go getters, if you stumble across this issues after doing some work, and your car will not start after having random misfires, it bogs, cranks no start, runs for 3 seconds and turns off, check your evap line running along your intake boot. Make sure you didn’t mix up your evap purge line, and your cooling line.
(Yes, they look the exact same, I did it, regretted it, next)
Despite having no return line to worry about. You will dump 2 gallons of coolant into your fuel tank. It will sink to the bottom, completely ruin your fuel injectors, and corrupt your fuel system. Check this by pulling fuel rail hose off (relieve pressure) and look for tint to the fuel color. If it’s green, you’re wrong, if it’s that booboo orange coolant color, you’re wrong. Drain and clean your fuel tank, scrap your fuel pump (or change the filter but I rec scrap it all), swap your rail, and your injectors, take everything out and crank motor with no plugs to get whatever contaminated fuel out of the cylinders. Consider replacing your spark plugs, if they get coated with antifreeze from bad fuel injectors, in a perfect world you might be able to torch them back to life, but in practicality, they will have also bit the dust. You’ll know because you won’t get any action off of starter fluid.
If you compression test, and you’re hitting high numbers, 200-210, you might have a coat of antifreeze on top of your pistons. Either your head-gasket is leaking, or your fuel injectors are spitting antifreeze. Get it out.
I’m getting 30 miles per gallon out of this bad boy. It was an absolute nightmare to get it going. I have taken every system apart, tested everything. CPS. TPS. MAP. VTEC SOLENOID. BELT. TIMING. COMPRESSION.
Some more things you can’t even find on the internet just for good measures. Don’t be me.
There is one forum I found with someone with the exact issue, and I’m here because I lost that forum and it helped point me in the right direction, despite OP scrapping the car.
Get new injectors. Pass it on. You’re Welcome and Good Luck.
This thread is very concise. Thanks OP
I should also add, the fuel injectors connector wires can come out of their connectors, get frayed, or work intermittently; worth checking while you’re in that area. Here’s a link to a video of the symptom.
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1 Posts
I have an 2010 1.8 SI VTEC only had it two months and I love this car.
Filled it up to top with petrol and drove 2 hours mostly in 6th gear, as soon as pulled into caravan park went down to second engine lights on, VSA LIGHT, limp mode, no power to get going at all.
Plugged in says misfire on cylinder three, changed coil and all spark plugs no change.
Doesn't smoke doesn't smell etc oil and coolant all fine. No power to get up any hills no power to get going once you I get past 2000 revs u can get moving Abit more.
Just want to know what it is.
Filled it up to top with petrol and drove 2 hours mostly in 6th gear, as soon as pulled into caravan park went down to second engine lights on, VSA LIGHT, limp mode, no power to get going at all.
Plugged in says misfire on cylinder three, changed coil and all spark plugs no change.
Doesn't smoke doesn't smell etc oil and coolant all fine. No power to get up any hills no power to get going once you I get past 2000 revs u can get moving Abit more.
Just want to know what it is.
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