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Discussion Starter #1
Right! - Here's (most) of the places where I've found and rectified rattles, however small they may be! - Feel free to pop a post below with what your rattles sound like / where it sounds like they're coming from and I'll see if I have any suggestions :)

As a guide, tools you'll want for getting the car rattle free are:
  • Tesa Tape, Ideal for wire wrapping, tacking down wires and preventing abrasion. It's a good liner for any clip locations to prevent high frequency vibrations.
  • Foam, this is perfect for stuffing into rattly gaps.
  • Trim Tools, the best way to get panels off to clear up rattles behind, and useful for stuffing foam in without scratching plastics.
  • Trim Clips, useful to have on hand should any get broken while you're working.
  • Dynamat Extreme
  • Heavy duty velcro, Good for securing loose things; The "soft" side is very adhesive and perfect for stopping wires rattling against hard surfaces.
Intermittent center console rattle
This is the rattle that eluded me for the longest! - Credit to this post for helping me find it.
Video of rattle noise

And that's where you wedge the foam! - I cut a strip of foam to length and used the trim tool to push it into the gap all the way around. - No more intermittent rattly clicking!

Wire rattle behind headunit
This one is rather involved, and will need removal of the headunit to access the wiring. There is a wire which taps against the top of the HVAC unit (Which iself vibrates).

I can't find the pictures taken, but once you've removed the HU look for a cable with partial yellow foam wrap - There is a point where the foam wrap ends, this is right where it contacts the HVAC unit! - Wrap in velcro and you're away :)

Center dash / footwell rattle
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A nice easy fix - Just ram some foam into the gap here where the center console taps against the HVAC unit.

Door click / creaking
This one was annoying, every time I opened / shut the door or tapped it with my knee there would be a click!
Personally, I removed the doorcard, re-stretched the vapour barrier (There was a small crease causing the click) and refitted - What helped most was just ramming some foam in as usual.

Lift up the switch panel; Be vary careful not to snap the piece where it goes from wide to narrow by the handle! - Pry carefully along the narrow section with your trim tool.
314986


Once in, push the foam up next to the screw - Problem solved!

Center Speaker Rattles
Pop the speaker out; It will just putlll out - Add some heavy duty velcro around the mounting clips, and you'll be sorted :)
I've added some extra sound deadening and foam here to go with the aftermarket speaker, but it's not needed just to sort the rattle.

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A Pillar Rattle
This is an easy one to test for; Just push down on the A pillar where it meets the screen.
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If that solves the problem, you'll need to pop out the pillar by removing the bolt under the "SRS" logo (Pop that off with a trim tool) and then pulling it out. Wrap the base of the pillar with Tesa tape / Thin foam at contact points, and you'll be sorted once again :)

Passenger footwell amp vibration
I found the footwell trim and amp were sandwiching the wiring harness just enough to produce a rattly-vibration when tapped; Just used some tesa tape and velcro as usual to wrap the wire and silence any vibration.
20201008_185949.jpg

Dashcam wires
Beware if you're installing, or having a dashcam installed - If you just push the wire under the side trim, there is a metal part that it will rattle against right behind - The best thing is to properly remove the side trim and A pillar and route with plenty of tesa tape and cable ties to keep things taut. Under the headlining, I removed the roof console (There are some rattly bits you can shore up there, too) and taped some of the other wires, as well as tesa wrapping the dashcam wire.

If anyone has any other rattles, let me know - These touch on the surface of "big" fixes that I've done; I've fixed a load of other tinny and rattly bits that I've found whilst I've been going round the car searching.
 

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Nice write up and many thanks for taking the time, will have a look at the rattle I have at the moment, once again many thanks.

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Discussion Starter #3
Another nice improvement made just this moment - I've found that using some adhesive foam strips inside the hinge point on the gloveboz greatly increases the quality of the assembly; it feels more solid open and shut, gives it an even gentler opening and removes a side to side play that is present when the box is open.

I've also supplemented the standard vibration isolation with some velcro, which also makes it far more solid whilst closed - there is zero play; it feels just like the rest of the dash.

Quite pleased with that!


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Many thanks, great info for all 10G owners, just a shame that Honda don't screw together interiors dare at say it like VW
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Another (extremely subtle TBF) door rattle rectified.

There's a loose wire (guessing to the locking system / window motor?) which can rattle between the door card and door frame.

I've wrapped it in a twister of foam tape to cushion, followed by an external wrap of tesa for neatness and durability.

Not a single creak tap or rattle however hard you bang the doorcard now.

Picture of wire that rattles attached :)


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I feel a new business startup coming here?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
@Wilmo I'll start taking work once I've finished this one XD

I've just found another rattle, though it's an intermittent one as I've heard it before.

Happens on low speed, low quality roads - also causes an identical reverb if you pop the clutch - was testing whilst stationary as it seems odd that it just starts "with the engine"

Anyway, I've attached a picture - it's where the breather tube for the AC clips onto the footwell vent.

A nice loose plastic to plastic clip.. Another bit of A* design from the NVH engineers there

Packed with foam, now sorted.


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