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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, as the title says really, I did the o/s first and had no problem at all, came to do the n/s and the ruddy caliper just won't go back in, I've tried pushing it out a little using the handbrake, it goes back in so far than just won't go any further and its still way too far out to get the new pads in. I also loosened the brake fluid reservoir cap so can't think what else I can do or what is causing it to not go back.

..any bright ideas? I think I may well have to remove the caliper and see whats going on on the bench......
 

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i-Vtec
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I would try loosening the bleed nipple and seeing if it will wind back in with that open. It could be the inside of the flexi has collapsed and wont allow the fluid to push back. I assuming you are winding it in clockwise?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I would try loosening the bleed nipple and seeing if it will wind back in with that open. It could be the inside of the flexi has collapsed and wont allow the fluid to push back. I assuming you are winding it in clockwise?
Thanks Das yes clockwise, it was strange as the o/s one didn't seem to be going back but I kept turning it and then all of a sudden it went back!
 

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Rear callipers are an @ss, they're often difficult to wind back and are essentially beyond DIY refurbishment due to the winding handbrake mechanism. I tried taking one apart over the Summer and I ended up paying for a pair of refurbished ones for my other car.

Front callipers I love working on, they're far bigger and can be entirely unpacked down to the piston if you feel that way inclined.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I don't believe it!!!! Went to it just and it wound straight in, amazing!!! So all done now.

One thing I did notice was the little nipple on the back of the pad which I guess is supposed to locate in one of the cut-outs on the piston and I didn't realise this with the o/s I did first so maybe I ought to take if off and check?
 

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what type of tool are you using
they need pressure aswell as twisting so some of the tools that just turn make it hard to get enough pressure to go back
 

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I used a specific wind back tool which presses as well as turns. Cost a fair bit...

IMO if the brakes aren't binding and the piston is fully wound back then I'll assume the nipple on the pad is in the recess.

It's impossible to check when the calliper is assembled unless I'm missing something?

The bigger issue I had is the rear calliper rubber seals for a bit twisted up...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I was using a little cube type tool and yes I was pushing in at the same time as turning (clockwise!)
 

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i-Vtec
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The bigger issue I had is the rear calliper rubber seals for a bit twisted up...
I always take a small screwdriver and gently lift the rubber and squirt WD40 etc under the rubber. This helps avoid this and gives the piston some lube as its squeezed back in.
 

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Ah I should have done that really...

Although next time I go to do the rear pads I'll likely just fit refurbished callipers, should really consider replacing the handbrake cables too I guess!
 

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I always take a small screwdriver and gently lift the rubber and squirt WD40 etc under the rubber. This helps avoid this and gives the piston some lube as its squeezed back in.
I did exactly the same thing after watching a youtube video


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I'd assume it's for someone who wants to wind a calliper fully out as sometimes that can free it up. Or for whatever reason one wants to extract the piston to match up with part worn pads.
 
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