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Alabaster civic 08 Type R
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I used thin nosed mole grips on the thread side, then with spanner back and forth moving the nut to initially breaking as it will be matted together with rust, when the nut was undone enough moved the grips to the other side. Yes it damages the thread but it is Coarse enough still to be removed as it won’t pick up, or get an old torque head impact socket just slighty oversized and smash it in the Alan key location. This should provide enough grab with a socket wrench to undo the nut with a spanner
Easiest way is just get a grinder and cut it of at the back of the flat side of the metal bracket, be off in 2secs.
Unfortunately in this instance their is not right or wrong way what ever is easy for you to carry out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Thanks all - I managed to saw it off using a ~20-40yr old fairly toothless mini-hacksaw and a decent bit of elbow grease! Reserved a pair of replacement drop links from Euro Car Parts which can be collected tomorrow morning - so result there I might actually meet the MOT re-test deadline! :)

Then once back from the re-test I'll be forewarned with the knowledge of the experience when it comes to doing the other side in a day or two.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Just when I think it'll be plain sailing fitting the new one back in... I can't for the life of me get the top main bolt to line up. It is like the whole front brake/wheel fitting mechanism has no plane of motion backwards :S

Automotive tire Bicycle tire Bicycle part Wood Motor vehicle

Bicycle frame Bicycle tire Automotive tire Bicycle fork Motor vehicle


On the 3-4 tutorials I watched people seem to be able to freely move things around and get it nicely lined up. Any ideas?
 

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2008 Civic Type R
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Check that you haven't pulled out a CV joint or the shaft from the gearbox, I've done it before.
 

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The drive shaft has popped out. When it's in the two bolts line up easily.

Said shaft is an utter @rse to get back in. Basically you keep pressing it in and turning the hub. Eventually it'll pop back in but it's pure trial and error. Don't force it too hard either!!
 

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2008 Civic Type R
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To save yourself the hassle on the other side, undo the hub nut and allow the hub and driveshaft to move apart when removing the strut. This saves you pulling on the shaft and accidentally dropping it out of the gearbox.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Just to confirm (so I know which parts to wiggle etc) is it likely the end of the shaft that connects to the wheel hub that has popped out? Or the end further under the car?
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
UPDATE:

Huge sense of satisfaction and relief as I managed to jiggle the driveshaft back into place. Instantly the wheel hub moved in promising directions and I was able to easily fit both the main strut bolts.

Then 2mins later disbelief and anguish as the space between drop link attachments is not nearly long enough :S


Automotive tire Motor vehicle Vehicle brake Locking hubs Rim

Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tread Bumper



New is the same length as old:

Wood Tool Metal Automotive tire Auto part



I have no idea what's happened ;/
 

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2008 Civic Type R
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Or have both front wheels up off the floor so the ARB is free. Glad it went together ok though

Sent from my CLT-L09 using Tapatalk
 
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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
now you know to put a jack under there BEFORE you undo the lower bolts on the other side :D
I had put a jack under the wishbone before.... also a block of wood under the wheel hub as someone had illustrated in a previous post. However, I assume I must have not have had either/both of them at sufficient heights.

For the other side (giving myself a day or two off to mentally refresh as was a tad stressed when things weren't going back smoothly haha!) I'm going to look into the method SilverCider mentioned - to remove the hub nut.

Anyway, thanks all you've saved me a good few hundred quid and tbh it was kind of fun give or take the odd stressful moment when I really didn't have the correct tool or specific knowledge to troubleshoot when there was a hiccup!
 

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All a learning curve mate, when I had a go it wasn’t all plain sailing, but know I have had them on and off so many times it’s second nature and got it down to a fine art. My next venture is having a go at the brakes next.
 

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I found the easiest way to remove drop links on the car is to cut the drop link in the middle of the shaft part. Pull it off of the ball joint, Use a pair of mole grips on the now exposed ball and then a normal decent socket on the nut. Job done. ;)
 

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A £10 eBay blow torch and scorching the drop link worked wonders for me. Took minutes also.


Either way the drop link is there to be destroyed since you'll never put it back on after removing.
 
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