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Discussion Starter #1
I've ordered myself some nice new pressed metal plates, which leaves me the job of removing the existing plates.

It seems like the plates are stuck on, I'm guessing with trim tape-esque material.

Has anyone else taken them off, and if so, what method did you use? I'd rather not just wrench / scrape at them for obvious reasons.
 

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Mine are screwed on but if yours are stuck then a length of dental floss used like a band saw behind the plate should do the trick.
 

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i-Vtec
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Get the wifes hair dryer out and attack them with that. It will soften the glue and they will soon pull off. Get yourself some Evo Stick Adhesive cleaner to remove the residue.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Get the wifes hair dryer out and attack them with that. It will soften the glue and they will soon pull off. Get yourself some Evo Stick Adhesive cleaner to remove the residue.
The last thing we need in this weather is any extra heat :laugh: - Save getting anything out, I'll just try it at 3pm :D
 

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I Hate tailgaters!
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Where you get the pressed plates from?
How you gonna attach those, sticky pads?
Always liked the looks of pressed plates on a car but didn't want to risk making a mess ripping mine off.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Why 3 PM. Is it time critical. Is there just a narrow window of opportunity at that time then?>:)
Nice and sunny on the driveway, and oven on pre heat given it's peak temperature!


Where you get the pressed plates from?
How you gonna attach those, sticky pads?
Always liked the looks of pressed plates on a car but didn't want to risk making a mess ripping mine off.
The plates are coming from https://www.ukmetalplates.com/ - £35 all in for a pair, so worth a punt imo.

They come with sticky pads too, so shouldn't be too difficult to attach (Note to self: Make a masking tape template so I don't stick them on wonky), Though I will need to find some of the gunk remover as mentioned above to remove any excess after getting the old plates off.

I've ordered them with the GB Flag, as driving on the continent is good fun.

I'm sure it's due a clean underneath the plates anyway :laugh:
 

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There are some parts of the country where an overnight park will see the plates gone in a flash.

Bit of white spirit should get the residue off then a good waxing before fitting the new plates, but, the bit where the new pads go will need re alcohol rubbing.
 

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Quite often with these sticky pads you don't need to resort to chemicals. They often peel or roll off with a bit of thumb pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Always liked the looks of pressed plates on a car but didn't want to risk making a mess ripping mine off.
Mission accomplished.

I used a little floss, and a lot of prying:- For the front plate, a revell extending hobby knife did most of the work from the bottom, then just gently prised it off.
I used the painstaking method of a credit card and rubbing the sticky goop with a thumb, which took a little while but removed the vast majority.

I'm quite happy with the result, just need to find somewhere to display the original plates :D
 

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Mission accomplished.

I used a little floss, and a lot of prying:- For the front plate, a revell extending hobby knife did most of the work from the bottom, then just gently prised it off.
I used the painstaking method of a credit card and rubbing the sticky goop with a thumb, which took a little while but removed the vast majority.

I'm quite happy with the result, just need to find somewhere to display the original plates :D
Very smart. Now I fancy getting a set of them ;) I do really like the look of the front of the 9G facelift, big improvement over the 9G IMO.
 

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I know this is an old post but I find this quite ironic. I just bought a g9 facelift and I needed to remove my personal plate (acrylic) from my old Civic g7 which I stuck on some 8 years ago. It was truly stuck, I had to use a good length of strimmer wire and heavy duty gloves to really get it off. For the Civic g9, it had metal plates which I needed to remove and fix with my acrylic plates.

When I took the rear metal plates off, I noticed when the dealer screwed their own plates on they never bothered to screw it into the holes designed for the plates. Instead they screwed it into the body work...blimming annoying.


Anyway, I thought I'd share my story.


By the way your dip lights looks absolutely amazing. Are these LED or HID? I'm thinking of replacing mine, can you share where you bought this from?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
By the way your dip lights looks absolutely amazing. Are these LED or HID? I'm thinking of replacing mine, can you share where you bought this from?
I love them too :p - You've triggered my passion for lighting now...

They are HIDs; I used LEDs in the 9G projectors but found they didn't have adequate output for their colour temperature:- The HIDs fit nicely into the housings, and projectors ensure they maintain a good cutoff, and are not blinding everyone. The improvement over standard halogens is immense; I've had the car next to CTRs with LEDs, and it's a close run thing as to which is brighter.

The kit I used is here: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01HOAZ6LQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

In 5000K, It perfectly matches the DRLs - They may appear a little blue (No more than ~5500K) to start, but after a short while of use they will break in to the correct colour temperature. The ballasts give a very quick ignition, and are prefectly usable after ~3 seconds.

If you have any questions as to the installation, let me know and I'll provide you with all the pictures you could possibly need! In my engine bay, the left ballast tucks nicely behind the fuse box, with the right bulb zip tied above the suspension mount.
Bulb installation is easier than it looks - Pop it into the hole, and simply squeeze the clip over the top - Ensure it is fully in place; The wires will tuck under the clip, but it may be a tight bend. Rather than drilling out the headlight caps, you can run the wires directly down, and then wedge shut the headlight caps - It is secure, and will prevent the ingress of any dust etc; and I've yet to see any moisture.

This gives an idea of the illumination in complete pitch black; This was taken on a very foggy hillside at night, in the middle of snowdonia, away from civilisation. Couldn't find the car from more than 3m if I didn't leave the sidelights on!

(High beams may also be on in this, but they are a similar HID kit)
 

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The light output is superb!! I did toy with the idea of Philips Ultinon LEDs (both dips and indicator) but are very expensive for what they are, and I'm mot too sure about the fans at the back and its longevity. But your HIDs, IMO, look the bees knees and better investment, considering a set of 4 Philips Ultinon LED indicators cost more than your HIDs.

The only thing that is holding me back is my car due its first MOT in Jan and if I fit these I would have the pleasure of removing these prior to the test. By the way what is the beam pattern like your HIDs? Has anyone flashed back due to glare?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The only thing that is holding me back is my car due its first MOT in Jan and if I fit these I would have the pleasure of removing these prior to the test. By the way what is the beam pattern like your HIDs? Has anyone flashed back due to glare?

I've been flashed once, but that was in Germany with no beam deflectors so I'll let you work that out :p (The manual sates the lamp conforms to dover / ECE Regulations meaning a deflector isn't needed, but kickups are still there...)


As it is a projector housing, the cutoff is sharp, as you would expect:- You'll get an identical cutoff to the one you have at the moment with your Halogens, just brighter and whiter.


I'm fairly sure that (Eastern?) European market vehicles actually have HIDs in the same projector from the factory, but not 100%.



Unlike reflectors that rely on the exact position of the light emitter to create a pattern, A projector uses a physical block to create the beam pattern - Similar to putting your hand over a torch - It doesn't matter how bright the candle in the jar is :p


Depending on how lenient (Or friendly!) your MOT Tester is, you may get away with it, as the beam pattern is good and appearance OEM.


As for auxiliary LEDs, I'm a big fan of OSRAM. I've found Philips, as you say, to be very pricey - I'm sure they are excellent quality, but not the best for value:- An OSRAM Premium LED pack is fairly priced; ~£15-20 Depending on the bulbs in question. The number plate lights in the pictures linked are OSRAM T10 LEDs.
 
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