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Well found.

Having the seats switched by the ignition is crucial to keep your battery healthy. Hook into the switched output from the option connector ;)
 

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Let us know how you get on. Particularly interested if the aftermarket heated pads are compatible with the switches.
 

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If I purchase an aftermarket heated seats kit could I use the wiring and switches with the OEM elements in the seats? I really don’t want to strip the seats down.
 

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Possibly.

At a glance I can see 2 ways the switches and wiring could work.

The standard Honda wiring takes a 12v feed to low heat and a separate 12v for high heat. So it would seem there are 2 sections of heating element in the Honda seat pads which are (say) both switched on for high heat and switches off some of the element for low heat.

Alternatively the aftermarket heat pads could be fed say, 10v on low and 12v on high with the switch being effectively a variable resistor to change the power delivered to the seat pad.

I have no idea which method the aftermarket wiring uses, or indeed, if they use another different method I haven't considered.

This is what I was alluding to in post #42. If there are 4 cables to each of the heat pads, it's probable aftermarket wiring and switches will work. Although it's really not difficult to make up a loom once you have the switches and connectors.

Had my seats on this weekend and it's a nice cosy feeling and definitely worth the agro.
 

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So it would seem there are 2 sections of heating element in the Honda seat pads which are (say) both switched on for high heat and switches off some of the element for low heat.
Very likely
Alternatively the aftermarket heat pads could be fed say, 10v on low and 12v on high with the switch being effectively a variable resistor to change the power delivered to the seat pad.
Extremely unlikely as you would have to 'waste' a whole bunch of power to get the voltage down to 10V.
Possibly/probably they are wired in series for low power and in parallel for high power.
 

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Possibly.

At a glance I can see 2 ways the switches and wiring could work.

The standard Honda wiring takes a 12v feed to low heat and a separate 12v for high heat. So it would seem there are 2 sections of heating element in the Honda seat pads which are (say) both switched on for high heat and switches off some of the element for low heat.

Alternatively the aftermarket heat pads could be fed say, 10v on low and 12v on high with the switch being effectively a variable resistor to change the power delivered to the seat pad.

I have no idea which method the aftermarket wiring uses, or indeed, if they use another different method I haven't considered.

This is what I was alluding to in post #42. If there are 4 cables to each of the heat pads, it's probable aftermarket wiring and switches will work. Although it's really not difficult to make up a loom once you have the switches and connectors.

Had my seats on this weekend and it's a nice cosy feeling and definitely worth the agro.
Maybe you should make up looms for money? You’ll have a customer here.
 

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Does anyone have a readable wiring diagram please ? I'm the op its to blurred.

I have the original switches and part of the original wiring loom so I'm looking just to finish this off but need to know which wires connect to where or which power source.

Both ( drivers & passengers ) switches have 6 wires on the original OEM switches.

Both have black, green, grey and brown wires in the same positions.

Then yellow and red on one and orange and blue on the other.

Any help would really be appreciated.

Thank you
 

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There are inaccuracies in the wiring diagram which do make it a touch more difficult. Not the OPs fault - the errors are in the Honda drawing. My cables were from a hybrid so the colours a bit different. So I am going a little by instinct here.

Yellow and red on one switch and orange and blue on the other are the high and low trigger cables which go to the seats. They connect with the high and low relays in the seat bases. To figure out which is high and which is low, connect the black to an earth. Then connect each of the other cables to a live. The switch low or high LED indicator will illuminate and let you know if it's a high or a low trigger cable. Needs to be quite dark to see them clearly. Do this first and let us know how you get on.

Black is earth (same as mine) and I connected this to the earth point at the lower right of the radio (need to remove the front centre console to see it).
Green and grey both go to an ignition controlled live (same as mine). One provides live to the little low/high indicator LEDs in the switch and one provides live to go to through the switch for the trigger cables. Can connect these together and use one fuse at the fusebox.
Brown I would guess is to a light controlled live to turn on the switch illumination when you turn on the lights (mine was light blue, although I haven't connected this. Not needed unless you want the switches to light up when you turn on the lights)

Then you need a high current live and earth to each of the seats to carry the full load of the heating elements. I took the earth from the same earth point at the lower right corner of the radio.

If anything is unclear, shout up and I'll try to help further.
 

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Thank you Robbie.

I'm a little confused, the drivers seat on mine has an additional connector with I'm guessing black ( earth ) blue 12v+ and then thinner red & yellow wires the same as on the one side of the switch so this is the feed for hi/lo. I have this connector as it was cut by the breakers with wiring attached so I can easily build this up.

The passengers seat hasn't got any additional connectors but it's heated so should I be looking at one of the seat connectors for unused wiring with the orange and blue wires in to get feed from the switch for hi/lo.

Thank you
 

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So you have all the wiring for the drivers seat and just need to make the loom and connector for the passenger side? In which case yes, you need to connect the passenger side to your made up loom.

Wiring colours may be as you suggest, but be prepared for them to be different. If you get the trigger wires the wrong way round the low/high will work back to front. Not the end of the world to swap the connections back round. You can check which relay is working if you're want to get it right first time. You can feel the relays click if you put your finger on it. High relay has 5 pins, low relay 4.
 

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1mm is fine for any cable running from the switches. Check it can carry 20A before using it for the main power feeds, but I would go for the larger size for the live and earth main power. Cable I used can carry 30A.
 

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1mm is fine for any cable running from the switches. Check it can carry 20A before using it for the main power feeds, but I would go for the larger size for the live and earth main power. Cable I used can carry 30A.
Thanks Robbie, where did you take the high current live from ? Direct from the battery or is it an ignition fed live ? Thank you
 

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I took the supply from fuse 28 or 29 as described in the initial post. This is ignition controlled so there is no supply to the seats at all when the ignition is off.

You could go direct from the battery with a permanent live if you wish (through a fuse), as long as the switch is cabled through an ignition controlled live. The relay in the seat base will then still switch off and cut the power from the relay and therefore to the seat heater. So it doesn't really matter, but I prefer to have all power to the seat cut off when the ignition is off.
 

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Great thank you Robbie.

On the seat connections, is the black definitely an earth. On the passengers seat the black wire is the thickest wire on the install and i wanted to make sure this wasn't a live feed and the blue is an earth.

I can't upload a picture as I haven't made enough posts.

Thank you for your help
 

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Pretty sure black isn't live, but I am away this weekend and don't have access to my notes. The earth cable carries exactly the same current as the live cable though.
 

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I've fitted the seats and all the wiring and nothing.

I have power to the switches and power to both seat connections.

All wiring is tested and is good.

Do you think it was a possibility blue was earth on the seats and the thick black wire was live ?

The relays are not clicking so something isn't right.

Any suggestions, thank you
 
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