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I like your approach to operating your electric gates and I think this would work well with my garage door. Do you remember who the company were that "clones the signal and makes a clever little box that you can wire in somewhere in your car."?
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I like your approach to operating your electric gates and I think this would work well with my garage door. Do you remember who the company were that "clones the signal and makes a clever little box that you can wire in somewhere in your car."?
Sorry, can't remember where i got that from.. had it in the last two cars so it's a few years old now - i'll see if i can find anything

If you have a soldering iron and a spare fob you could make your own pretty easily:

or something like this is essentially the same thing: Flash 2 Open - Gate, Garage door remote control or https://gateauto.uk/product/flash-2-open-transmitter/

these are designed to wire into your headlight flash circuit - flash your lights and the gate opens. Essentially its the same sort of thing i have, i just put mine on permanent live feed with a push-switch
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Anybody ever bought anything from croooober? I did a search on here and i couldn't see any reference to the site so i guess not..?

I've just pressed the button on a set of rims - bit of a leap of faith i guess :) cost saving should be worth it though even including the cost of the shipping.

They're going to be my summer rims so i'm not in a rush to get them, so no problem with the time to get them here. Paid by c card so i guess i have some sort of protection if they don't turn up :surprise:

Won't post up what they are in case they turn out to be ****/ don't turn up, but they are super light, forged, iconic :D
 

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Maybe a daft question but does yours come with the adjustable rear dampeners? Just wondered if they stop working after replacing the Shocks & Springs
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Maybe a daft question but does yours come with the adjustable rear dampeners? Just wondered if they stop working after replacing the Shocks & Springs
Yes my car has the adjustables on the rear - i've got a full eibach pro kit (4 springs) but only the bilstein B8's for the front - i'm going to retain the factory dampers at the rear for now.

My rear dampers are relatively new so it didn't make sense to bin them - hopefully it'll work ok with the bilsteins on the front (if not on "N - normal" then maybe the "D-dynamic" setting might be a better match for the stiffer bilsteins?).

if it doesn't work very well i can always put some B8s on the back too - and lose the switchable control. I'll post up on here when they're on how it all works out.

:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Mod #6; Eibach pro kit springs and front Bilstein B8's are now fitted.

Got these on yesterday, done about 100 miles on them so far.. initial thoughts; I love the way the car sits, perfect height for the car - eibach really get this spot on every time.

Yes its a little bit firmer but it's not by much, feels more like a GTI, more planted and less roll in the bends. Very happy with the feel -it's exactly what i was aiming for. If you want the lower look but wanted it to ride more like stock then the eibachs with stock (or bilstein **) dampers would be the way to go.

Bilsteins weren't cheap but i'm planning to keep this car for 90-100k miles so worth the investment i guess. The car has done 90k miles so as a precaution i'd ordered up some topmounts - just in case these needed doing too - good news is that the originals are still spot on so no need to replace them.


Bilsteins are p/n: 22-231932 right and 22-224538 left.
Eibach kit p/n: E10-40-011-14-22.

I'll take some better pics at some point, but here's quick snap:


eibach1
by Rob E, on Flickr
 

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Looks smart Rob, pleased that you are enjoying the new setup.

I'm looking at antiroll bars ATM and am wondering if the fk2 type R arbs fit the standard fk2.
 

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I'm looking at antiroll bars ATM and am wondering if the fk2 type R arbs fit the standard fk2.
Perhaps of intrest to you, https://www.dream-automotive.com/collections/suspension-fk2
Dream have fitted pictures of the Cusco ARBs / Stiffening braces.

Not a suspension wizard, but personally I wouldn't bother with a rear ARB given the torsion beam setup, as I'd think it would make the rear far too stiff.

As for Rob, how are you finding the lowered ride height? I often find I look at the Civic from some angles / in some scenes and think "Wow, suprisingly low", and in others "Wow, what a barge" - The Eibachs look very well planted - The only issue for me is that I already find myself scraping! (Usually the front rubber, but would still put me off lowering)
 

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Just looking through your post and saw your dash button blank mod.

I'm looking into fitting an R button, identical to that in the type R which I then plan to link to something like either a DTUK Pedalbox or Sprintbooster. Purely just to change the throttle response but by a means that is more aesthetically pleasing than having a little control box stuck on the dash. I'll let you know how I get on. Should compliment the Bluespark box/remap.

https://www.diesel-performance.co.uk/products-overview/?key=DTUK+Pedal+Box+Plus

https://www.sprintbooster.com/
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Just looking through your post and saw your dash button blank mod.

I'm looking into fitting an R button, identical to that in the type R which I then plan to link to something like either a DTUK Pedalbox or Sprintbooster. Purely just to change the throttle response but by a means that is more aesthetically pleasing than having a little control box stuck on the dash. I'll let you know how I get on. Should compliment the Bluespark box/remap.

https://www.diesel-performance.co.uk/products-overview/?key=DTUK+Pedal+Box+Plus

https://www.sprintbooster.com/
that's a neat idea. using oem "R" switch would be very cool.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Perhaps of intrest to you, https://www.dream-automotive.com/collections/suspension-fk2
Dream have fitted pictures of the Cusco ARBs / Stiffening braces.

Not a suspension wizard, but personally I wouldn't bother with a rear ARB given the torsion beam setup, as I'd think it would make the rear far too stiff.

As for Rob, how are you finding the lowered ride height? I often find I look at the Civic from some angles / in some scenes and think "Wow, suprisingly low", and in others "Wow, what a barge" - The Eibachs look very well planted - The only issue for me is that I already find myself scraping! (Usually the front rubber, but would still put me off lowering)
THanks @Haltamer - not seen that site before, thanks for the link. TBH i don't think i'm going to do ARBs - i've done these on previous cars (both the last two vRS's had h&r rear bars) but the civic i don't think really needs it - the eibachs make it a bit stiffer anyway, plus you can firm up the rear if you want with the adjustable dampers so i don't feel the need for the stiffer arb.

Done some more miles in it now, incl some rougher roads and speed humps - no problem with scraping - wouldn't want it any lower though ;)

Now its lower though i do think i need some spacers on the rear - front seems ok but the rears still look a bit "lost" in the arch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
My new roof bars turned up last night too which is great (need them for this weekend).

I'd tried to find some cheap second hand OEM bars but nothing i found was local or cheap enough - so bit the bullet and got some Thule wing bars.

Thule 4044 kit is the specific adapter for the touring oem rails + "rapid system" foot pack + 711200 118cm wingbars. Cheaper than a new OEM set of bars and i got a deal on black friday so saved a bit more.


Untitled
by Rob E, on Flickr


Untitled
by Rob E, on Flickr


Untitled
by Rob E, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 · (Edited)
So, just back from a weekend away with the family (two adults, two kids, dog) first trip like this with the civic. Loaded up with the Thule roof box plus another case up on the roof too - civic did a great job, sat a little lower with all the kit on board but no problems with speed humps/ rubbing etc and it was a really good test - ~400 miles or thereabouts including some gnarly broken tarmac / off road lane to the beach, no issues at all.


loaded_up
by Rob E, on Flickr

I think the rears have settled a bit, or maybe the before/after pic posted earlier was a little misleading (looks high at the rear) with being parked on tarmac that wasn't level, either way, it sits perfect now, pic this morning:


eibachs_settled
by Rob E, on Flickr

Going to look at upgraded bulbs this week and work out if i can afford the remap now or if i'll have to wait 'til Jan.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Mod #7; Bulb upgrade

The SR spec car i have is very well equipped, only thing i think it's lacking is the halogen headlights. I've had xenons in the last four or five cars so i knew i'd find it hard to go back to halogen.

I looked at hid kits and also led bulbs - not happy with either option as i don't want to me messing around with swap overs at MOT time (or potentially running a risk) so i looked at bulb upgrades.

Autoexpress did a recent back to back test on H7 bulbs, their results as follows:
1 Philips RacingVision
2 Ring Xenon130
3 Ring Xenon150
3 Osram Night Breaker Laser Next Generation
4 GE Megalight Ultra +130

Although the phillips win the test they don't get very good reviews on amazon as they have a very short life (150 hrs). For me, that would mean (assuming 2 hrs per day in the car, five days per week) they'd only last 15 weeks. Not good enough.

The second best bulbs are 450 hrs rated and only a little behind the phillips so i got a set of those, £20-ish from Amazon.


Untitled
by Rob E, on Flickr

Can't believe how difficult honda make it to change the bulbs though..!? WFT. No space whatsoever in there.. GRRRRRR..

Good news is that the bulbs are much whiter than the OE items and visibly brighter, so a result. Definitely worth the money.


Mod #8; Rear spacers

Also got some cheapo 5mm slot on spacers from ebay. Dont' see why some suppliers charge a lot for these when they are just a simple flat disc of aluminium? I got a set of 4 (only used 2) for 9 quid..

Still plenty of thread on the wheel nuts with these on, but i wouldn't' want to go an wider. The wheels still make contact with the centre hub but only just. Car looks better with them on but its not a massive difference tbh.

It's a good test though to see how the car looks/ handles with wider track in prep for my summer wheels - these are stock width at 7.5" but ET 48 so equivalent of having a 7mm spacer.


spacer
by Rob E, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 · (Edited)
Mod #9; CR-Z gear knob

I'm not a fan of the mk9 gear knob - it's too tall and cheap plastic. I've swapped out shifter knobs on just about every car i've had in the last 10 yrs to something better/ nicer as i think your relationship with the car is greatly influenced by the interaction with the primary controls, steering wheel, gear knob etc and having something that feels nice/quality, works well and sits nice in your hand is very important.

i looked at the naff aftermarket items available for the civic and quickly rules those out- I wanted something that looks OEM and not look like i bought it in halfords.

Considered a type r metal ball type but ruled that out also as my car ISN'T a type r, plus i had a full metal ball type on a couple of my lotuses and whilst it's ergonomically great it does suffer with extremes of hot and cold, so ruled that out also.

Nicest OEM honda shifter i think is the CR-Z. It's billet aluminium and leather, v nice quality. Checked with Cox and new these are £221! Ouch. After a few months of watching ebay i found a breaker with a suitable cr-z and got a used one for £30 incl postage. Turned up minging dirty (i think the car had been outside for some time and was not water tight) so needed a good clean, some wear/patina on the top but nothing i couldn't live with (my car has done 90k miles so i'm not needing it to be pristine).

OEM knob is removed just by unscrewing, one of the clips holding the gaiter broke as i did this but i wasn't bothered as this is not going to be re-used.

To remove the gaiter/ surround, you need to ease the panel away that runs down the side of the drivers leg - pull that out to the side and the base of the gaiter/surround can be popped up:


Shifter
by Rob E, on Flickr


CR-Z knob vs Civic knob
by Rob E, on Flickr

See above, the CR-Z you need all three parts; the knob, the plastic collar (attaches to the gaiter) and there is also an aluminium collar that fixes to the shaft to which the plastic/gaiter clip attaches (it's upside down in the pic above..)

Take the civic collar out of the gaiter and put the CR-Z plastic collar in with a cable tie, make sure you have it the right way up:


Civic boot with CR-Z clip
by Rob E, on Flickr

Once you've done that then get this over the shifter shaft, then you screw the alu collar on the gear stick and pull up the gaiter to clip into place (plastic part clips in to the alu) then just screw the CR-Z knob on, keep turning until the shift pattern is correctly aligned.

I modded mine a little as i fitted it to sit about 10mm lower (i mounted the alu gaiter clip thing lower on the shaft with a jubilee after reaming out the thread which meant the knob could screw down lower).

Hope that makes sense, it's not a hard job to do.


Untitled
by Rob E, on Flickr


Untitled
by Rob E, on Flickr


The CR-Z shifter looks great, OEM style and suits the interior. Shifting is actually improved also, feels more solid - i guess that's down to the increased weight of the CR-Z knob. V pleased with this.

Final point; my car has black leather with a white stitch so ideally i would have liked a white stitch on the knob too - i believe the very last few gt? cr-z's had this - unfortunately mine has dark blue stitch but tbh you really can't see this (looks black unless you look REALLY closely) so for 30 quid i can't grumble.

Oh, and feel free to make as many knob / shaft /screwing jokes as you think is necessary :)
 
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