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Shock absorbers questions

7K views 26 replies 8 participants last post by  Negativvv 
#1 ·
Hello, Iam kinda new here and also newbie in such "sport" cars, i started to feel every hole on the road like a real pain, so Iam thinking of changing shock absorber+strut mount on my right front wheel, on my type R fn2, but i have a couple of questions about it, i hope someone can help me with that.

1) There are some differences between shock absorbers? Iam looking to buy one on autodoc, but i see prices like 28£ and 50£+. What the difference between them? Any advices? I see there "bottom eye" and "bottom clamp", what is that...
2) Should i change shock absorbers on both wheels straight away, or i can change just the bad one?
3) Wheel aligment needed after change?

Thanks in advance!
 
#2 ·
Shock absorbers will vary in price like anything else you buy, you’d presume that the higher the price the better the quality (but we all not that isn’t always the case).

I don’t have an FN2 but for my 2.2 I went for Bilstein shocks all round. One of the FN2 owners on here can give their recommendations.

If you aren’t aware your car has had any suspension part replaced, if you can afford it, I’d be in inclined to do the shock, top mount and bearing whilst you’re at it. I personally always change both sides even if it’s just the one that’s completely gone, because I know the other side will be out soon but there’s nothing saying you have to.

Yes I’d recommend a wheel alignment and I’d also check for play in your drop links. It’s also worth replacing your anti roll bar bushes if these haven’t been done for a while.

I’d also check the condition of your springs - if they look badly corroded it could be worth replacing these, if not then you should get another while out of them.

Not sure what the bottom clamp is, bottom eye is the lower bush on the rear shock I think...
 
#5 ·
If you aren’t aware your car has had any suspension part replaced, if you can afford it, I’d be in inclined to do the shock, top mount and bearing whilst you’re at it. I personally always change both sides even if it’s just the one that’s completely gone, because I know the other side will be out soon but there’s nothing saying you have to.

Yes I’d recommend a wheel alignment and I’d also check for play in your drop links. It’s also worth replacing your anti roll bar bushes if these haven’t been done for a while.

I’d also check the condition of your springs - if they look badly corroded it could be worth replacing these, if not then you should get another while out of them.
Yeap, in garage my mechanic said that i need replace of shack absorber and strut mount on it. I will go with the replacement of both sides then..

Springs are good, he said.
 
#3 ·
It also depends on whether you want standard spec shocks or updated ones. If staying standard then do both sides and if going uprated then do them all. The FN2 can be a bit “crashy” as standard and changing them for uprated ones not only gives better handling but can be a bit more comfortable especially if they are adjustable. I am sure you will get some good advice here as there are a lot of different options that have been tried and tested. But it is also down to personal choice and how you enjoy your driving.
 
#4 ·
Hello, Iam kinda new here and also newbie in such "sport" cars, i started to feel every hole on the road like a real pain, so Iam thinking of changing shock absorber+strut mount on my right front wheel, on my type R fn2, but i have a couple of questions about it, i hope someone can help me with that.

1) There are some differences between shock absorbers? Iam looking to buy one on autodoc, but i see prices like 28£ and 50£+. What the difference between them? Any advices? I see there "bottom eye" and "bottom clamp", what is that...
2) Should i change shock absorbers on both wheels straight away, or i can change just the bad one?
3) Wheel aligment needed after change?

Thanks in advance!
You should change both sides, @bayzoo is right that if one side is shot the other side won't be far behind.
If you buy Sachs shocks these are a direct replacement for the Honda ones (as Sachs make the Honda ones) at a considerable £ saving.
They also come with any bushes & nuts that you need whereas the Honda ones don't (more expense).

I did both front and rear about 6 weeks ago using Sachs shocks (from autopartstechnik.co.uk).
I put in Borg & Beck top mounts and spring bearings (google BSM5449) and Meyle HD drop links - both come with the required nuts.
I bought new Honda bump stops (@£31 each since nobody else seems to do them) and a Meyle gaiter kit (from Autodoc 31-146400001).
The front 4 bottom bolts & nuts were Honda (£17 a set) also the small pad for the bottom of the front springs.
For the rears I got 2 new Honda bottom bolts.
You may as well do the ARB bushes at the same time as they are less than £20 from cox motor parts.

You may be able to reuse the bump stops & gaiter and maybe the bolts (but I would change them in case you damage the old ones getting them out).

I didn't have the wheels aligned as the mechanic who did the fronts for me said that as we had replaced like for like there was no real need.

After doing this at a total cost inc some labour of £730 I can say that the ride is still very firm but the real harshness has gone, this has been noticed by both Mrs W & a mate who regularly comes in the car.

Hope this helps.
BTW if you contact Cox with your civinfo ID you will get a forum discount.
 
#6 ·
You should change both sides, @bayzoo is right that if one side is shot the other side won't be far behind.
If you buy Sachs shocks these are a direct replacement for the Honda ones (as Sachs make the Honda ones) at a considerable £ saving.
They also come with any bushes & nuts that you need whereas the Honda ones don't (more expense).

I did both front and rear about 6 weeks ago using Sachs shocks (from autopartstechnik.co.uk).
I put in Borg & Beck top mounts and spring bearings (google BSM5449) and Meyle HD drop links - both come with the required nuts.
I bought new Honda bump stops (@£31 each since nobody else seems to do them) and a Meyle gaiter kit (from Autodoc 31-146400001).
The front 4 bottom bolts & nuts were Honda (£17 a set) also the small pad for the bottom of the front springs.
For the rears I got 2 new Honda bottom bolts.
You may as well do the ARB bushes at the same time as they are less than £20 from cox motor parts.

You may be able to reuse the bump stops & gaiter and maybe the bolts (but I would change them in case you damage the old ones getting them out).

I didn't have the wheels aligned as the mechanic who did the fronts for me said that as we had replaced like for like there was no real need.

After doing this at a total cost inc some labour of £730 I can say that the ride is still very firm but the real harshness has gone, this has been noticed by both Mrs W & a mate who regularly comes in the car.

Hope this helps.
BTW if you contact Cox with your civinfo ID you will get a forum discount.
Thanks for the advice, but Sachs are £ 82,97 for 1, my budget is a way too low at the moment.

Anti roll bar on one side was changed month ago to pass MOT, and yes i gonna change the other one at the same time with shock absorbers.

Iam looking at Ridex Shock Absorber, they are 32£ for 1 at the moment. On Sachs i see this line "Shock absorber system : Twin tube" but in ridex or another i dont see this line at all. Does it really matters ?

Also, could you please tell me the difference between this 2 parts ? I cant get why they looks so different but have almost the same description...
https://www.autodoc.co.uk/ashika/11308948
https://www.autodoc.co.uk/ridex/13656875


Thanks
 
#18 ·
313593 & 313594
I thought you had looked them up on Autodoc!

BTW I went for Sachs because i know they will fit, come with the bits others don't & they make the Honda originals.
You pays your money & takes your choice - buy cheap, buy twice
 
#20 ·
They come with a top nut only.
You will have to buy top mount/bearings separately - I got these from RTG Borg & Beck Top Strut Mounting Kit BSM5449 - GENUINE - 5 YEAR WARRANTY 5055936645073 | eBay
so you see that they come complete (Honda charge £40+ for just the top mount without the 3 nuts that go with).
The SNR ones previously mentioned will do just as well I guess.

autopartstechnik are a UK distributor selling at trade prices to to the public and should deliver in days, not the weeks Autodoc can take. Yes ECP can be pricey even with special sale discounts.

There is a pad thingy to go at the bottom of the spring that Honda sell for £4 but @Das recommends some Vauxhall part that does the same for less £.

Unless they are in good condition you may need to replace the 4 bottom nut & bolts on the shock - £17 a set from Honda
your bump stops & gaiter can be re-used if they are okay too.

When I did mine I went the whole hog and did everything except the springs regardless.
 
#21 ·
They come with a top nut only.
You will have to buy top mount/bearings separately - I got these from RTG Borg & Beck Top Strut Mounting Kit BSM5449 - GENUINE - 5 YEAR WARRANTY 5055936645073 | eBay
so you see that they come complete (Honda charge £40+ for just the top mount without the 3 nuts that go with).
The SNR ones previously mentioned will do just as well I guess.

autopartstechnik are a UK distributor selling at trade prices to to the public and should deliver in days, not the weeks Autodoc can take. Yes ECP can be pricey even with special sale discounts.

There is a pad thingy to go at the bottom of the spring that Honda sell for £4 but @Das recommends some Vauxhall part that does the same for less £.

Unless they are in good condition you may need to replace the 4 bottom nut & bolts on the shock - £17 a set from Honda
your bump stops & gaiter can be re-used if they are okay too.

When I did mine I went the whole hog and did everything except the springs regardless.
Vauxhall Insulation ring x2 13178463
 
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