the 8g type r yeah. I examined the links, there seems no play and generally good condition. I'm inclined to believe its the right shock as it says it has a serious fluid leak.I'd check the knock isn't the Drop Link. I'm assuming here that you have the 8G? When I had mine and the Drop Links went the noise was a bit Crash, Bang and Wallop. Check the ARB too while you're on, an easy fix as well.
May as well put new drop links on, usually if they're original they'll be seized solid and you'll have to cut them off anyway.the 8g type r yeah. I examined the links, there seems no play and generally good condition. I'm inclined to believe its the right shock as it says it has a serious fluid leak.
yeah ordered some meyle HD ones. Look heavy duty.May as well put new drop links on, usually if they're original they'll be seized solid and you'll have to cut them off anyway.
i see thanks. It's about £37 for just the top mount on cox or £45 for the mount + bearing beneath. Works out £90 both sides which i'd rather not if they're not neccesary or if they can be cleaned and reused. I've not heard any knocking when turning the steering which I've heard is the way to know they're bad.I would change the top mounts at the same time otherwise you might need to change them soon after. I would buy the oem top mounts as aftermarket ones don't last that long.
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Ive done them and they're pretty easy as they just unscrew. You do however need to get the tracking done after.i see thanks. It's about £37 for just the top mount on cox or £45 for the mount + bearing beneath. Works out £90 both sides which i'd rather not if they're not neccesary or if they can be cleaned and reused. I've not heard any knocking when turning the steering which I've heard is the way to know they're bad.
Anyone done the track rod ends before?
I took my factory honda ones off, foolishly didn't measure it from a fixed point to the ball joint. I just counted the turns (13) and then stuck the new ones with 13 + 3-4 more turns to account for 1cm.They should be adjustable for length as you need to wind them.
so started by disassembling the Passenger front suspension. Got all the bolts except for the lower strut bolt. It is so badly seized that 1-2 hrs of going at it with fluid and the like didn't work. Didn't try heat but i'd rather not. i'VE got the nut off but the bolt doesnt turn or anything. Tried hammering with the nut on it to no availIts either a chance to boost your kitty of tools, or its best done by a garage - I chose the former. Ended up buying an 18mm spark plug socket to do the top nut on the strut (you can feed an allen key down through it to the spindle to stop it spinning and use a spanner on the hex collar at the top of the socket), and a set of swan neck ring spanners for the same, but the spanners never got used. Still, I have them now! Over time I've built up a pretty good tool set by buying them as jobs needed doing. Once you have them, you've got a much easier choice and the potential to do more and more jobs yourself.
My impact wrench is cheapest of the cheap from Machine Mart - around £20 I think. I have Laser brand spring compressors and they have good strong purchase on the spring - no fears of them coming off as they were absolutely solid. I just had to use them what I consider to be upside down, ie the adjuster nut at the bottom if the strut is placed the right way up.
I did the other side of my car today and it took less than 3 hours all in, and I wasn't rushing at all. Could have been done faster but I wasn't in a hurry today. It was much easier now that I had the knack of getting the compressors onto the spring with clearance to tighten them, the knack of removing the nut holding the top mount in place on the strut, the knack of removing drop links off the arb and leaving them on the strut since I was replacing them with new, and now knowing the order of process. All new bolts and nuts, and it just went on very easily. No faff, no grief, job done. The old shock on one side had a smallish amount of play before it met resistance as it compressed and this was the source of the knock. The old top mounts were re-used but the bearings were new ones from Honda. They original ones were still OK as were the bump stops, but I'd bought them so on the new ones went. I kept the original dust covers, but they were a bit baggy around the base so I did use a zip tie around the base of each side to keep it in place.
Torqued it all up to the correct settings and....... Robert's your mothers brother.
The car drives so much better!!! I had no idea how badly worn the old shocks were until I drove it with the new ones on. I will now replace the rear ones too, but they are really easy to do. I've already had them off the check the resistance on them and they seem fine, but they were pretty shabby and I guess near to their end of life. They can be swapped out in less than an hour for the pair.