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Discussion Starter #1
Wondering if this is normal on an FN2:-

When sat still in neutral, on flat ground, there's a tiny pull from the driven wheels when changing from neutral to any forward gear. I.e. clutch in, move gearstick to first and the car will make the smallest of movements forward but not enough to actually travel any distance if that makes sense. In my head this could be one of 2 things:

1) Clutch not fully disengaging - however all gears select fine both static and on the move.
2) General transmission drag - I know for example that the wheels of a car with its driven wheels in the air will still turn due to the various frictional forces going through the transmission, so wondered if this was just a case of the same but I'm just being overly sensitive in noticing it and/or the FN2 transmission has this to a more noticeable degree than other cars.

I've owned an E46 which suffered from clutch drag but the symptoms of that were a much more prominent thud/jerk when selecting a gear from neutral.

Worth noting that if I have the clutch in on any sort of incline, even when in gear the car will still roll backwards making me think it's probably disengaging properly and down to the 2nd scenario above.

Nonetheless would love to know if anyone else has noticed the same, and if they haven't which component I can expect to be replacing in future (would assume clutch kit if anything).

Thanks all.
 

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That doesn't sound right at all.

When was the clutch fluid last changed?

Is the fluid dark or light in colour?

What is your bite point like?

To the best of your knowledge, how many miles has this clutch covered?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That doesn't sound right at all.

When was the clutch fluid last changed?

Is the fluid dark or light in colour?

What is your bite point like?

To the best of your knowledge, how many miles has this clutch covered?
I've only owned the car a few months, fluid not changed during my ownership. Will be due a service in December so for the sake of £35 will have this done then regardless. It's currently clear and golden, so doesn't look to have degraded much, I expect it has been changed at some point but can't be sure.

Bite is fine, quite sharp and was a little low when I first bought the car. Adjusted the threaded clutch pedal rod approx. half a turn to bring the bite closer to the middle of pedal travel.

Regarding the clutch itself, I'm guessing original so 82k miles. I have history of most work, and there's nothing to indicate it's ever been changed.

It's an odd one and barely noticeable, but agree something doesn't seem right!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Small updates, played about with it at lights today, a few observations:

- Seems to jerk most if I dip the clutch and change straight into gear
- Less or completely unnoticeable if I dip clutch, hold it there and change into gear a few seconds later

This now makes me think (or hope) that it's air in the system and the clutch pedal is slightly delayed in reacting due to compressing air not fluid.

For the sake of £35 I'll bring the fluid change forward and see if that helps. Maybe just wishful thinking on my part.

Still keen to know if anyone has experienced similar and how they fixed it.
 

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Same thing is happening to me. My clutch bite is really low. It engages in 0.5cm when i release it.
Did you solve your problem?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Haven't got to the bottom of it yet, largely due to the fact I've done nothing more about it.

I keep deliberately making the car do it when stopped to see when it will/won't do it and as above still think it must be fluid related (fluid itself or slave cylinder).

- As above, it only does it when going into gear quickly (<3 seconds ish) after dipping the clutch
- Otherwise has no issue engaging/disengaging gears
- Issue is only going into gears, not disengaging which to me rules out the diaphragm spring plate on the clutch as the spring "action" is away from the clutch, clutch going in is reliant on the clutch fork which is actuated by the slave cylinder

My bite was also really low, I adjusted it up per the guide on here but that in itself hasn't cured it. If the fork is travelling enough to engage this shouldn't make a difference if the delay is coming from the fluid/slave cylinder as I suspect/hope.

When I get a free hour I'll gravity bleed the clutch and report back. If that doesn't do it then I'll have Honda do the same when it's in for a service later this year as presumably they can power or reverse bleed it which should rid the system of air better than a gravity bleed will.

If you find it's something else in the meantime please let me know! It's more of a minor annoyance than a real issue but do want to get it resolved.
 

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for what its worth. i had my clutch fluid/tran fluid/clutch/flywheel replaced when i had an fn2. it still dragged when lifted into air.

adjusting the clutch pedal biting point and changing clutch fluid did help a lot.

easiest way to bleed clutch is to remove the bonnet latch (2 bolts). i used a gunnison easy bleed (pressure bleeder) as not using it caused pedal failure.
 

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As mentioned above, changing clutch fluid should help. Might be worth getting someone to push the clutch down whilst you look at the slave cylinder and fork to make sure it's pushing the piston out enough, sure there will be a video on youtube you can compare with!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
for what its worth. i had my clutch fluid/tran fluid/clutch/flywheel replaced when i had an fn2. it still dragged when lifted into air.

adjusting the clutch pedal biting point and changing clutch fluid did help a lot.

easiest way to bleed clutch is to remove the bonnet latch (2 bolts). i used a gunnison easy bleed (pressure bleeder) as not using it caused pedal failure.
That's useful to know, may just be another "characteristic" of this car! My old EP2 also dragged with the wheels in the air, though not to the point of feeling it when the wheels were on the ground.

Thanks for the heads up on the Eezibleed kit, my mechanic also mentioned that they don't respond well to loosening the nipple / pumping / tighening. I was going to get Honda to do it but do prefer doing things myself where I can.

As mentioned above, changing clutch fluid should help. Might be worth getting someone to push the clutch down whilst you look at the slave cylinder and fork to make sure it's pushing the piston out enough, sure there will be a video on youtube you can compare with!
I think changing the clutch fluid (with an Eezibleed kit) will still be the first port of call. Great idea inspecting the fork travel, at least that way I can see if engagement is delayed regardless of the cause. Not sure where I'll get visual access, assume from above if I remove a few bits and pieces (filter housing etc?).
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Had a look at changing the clutch fluid today. Guides made this sound easier than it is. Even with the front plastic cowl and bonnet catch removed removed I could only just reach the bleed nipple - and I have tiny hands! Tried a few times to get a piece of hose and a spanner on it but just wasn't happening. With the threat of rain I put the car back together and the tools away.

Going to wait until it's up in the air and have another go then. Will report back once done!
 
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