2006+ Honda Civic Forum banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
616 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I just want to point out a few discoveries I've made as I've installed and setup my audio system in the car.

1. Don't forget the screws inside of the handle beneath the small rubber piece. Easily broken if you bend the doorcard forgetting about these.

2. If you have tweeters oem, aftermarket normal size tweeters will fit exactly inside.

3. The oem radio is NOT EQUALIZED. The output level is FLAT.

4. The tweeters use the same color cables as the mids. Not separate channels from the oem radio.

5. The rubber cylinder hose that houses the cables going from inside the car to the door CAN'T BE PENETRATED. You will need to have the cable go beside it. Why? There's no hole in the ends but a wire harness at each side with connectors.

6. Green plastic plugs holding door cards etc are completely new and not based on old models and cost 2-3£ each.

7. L-shaped kick panel at passenger side close to center is easily broken if removed but costs only about 5£ from honda.

8. Plastic covers inside of the door handles will easily break, ESPECIALLY the rears. Will probably be cheap from Honda, but I reinforced with double sided tape. These WILL cause rattle if not seated properly.

9. When equalizing the car with a external microphone and TrueRTA software ( TrueRTA Audio Spectrum Analyzer Software ) I found the curve quite straight except from around 50-80hz that needed to be lowered by alot.

10. The lower compartment in the trunk is perfect for amp install and you will still have room for tools etc (just secure them)

11. The oem speakers pulls up then towards you to be removed. The oem speakers can be cut out and used as a bracket for new speakers.

12. Both front and rear are 6.5" speakers.

13. When fitting new speakers with oem stereo, the volume threshold before distortion seems to be around 20 in volume on the oem stereo depending of the recorded volume of the music track.

14. There will be problems of varying kind with aftermarket units and the "Start/Stop" system. After entering idle stop at a traffic light etc, and when the engine starts again, your headunit will most likely shut off and on again (If you have a Bluetooth call or stream music, it will take a long time before reconnect).
Audison has a accessory to mend this and some other manufacturers might also have this, but be prepared for this.

15. There's a good grounding point underneath the seat close to where the seatbelt holder connects. There's several good grounding points behind the glove department including factory grounding points. There's no good grounding points underneath the most rear plastic cover in the trunk.

16. Going through the firewall from inside of the engine compartment is easy and you can reach it without removing anything. The inside however will be hard to access (You won't see the entrance at all) so basicly you need to fish the wire from the engine compartment until you can reach it underneath the glove department. This is what took most of my time initially.

If I forgot something, I will add later on. Feel free to ask questions and I will try to answer them.

To get aftermarket sound quality and beyond but keep oem stereo, I recommend Audison Bit Ten:

Audison bit - bit Ten
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Hey gloom, on the stop start front, what is it that Audison provide and how does in work/integrate with an aftermarket radio?

Cheers,

James
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
616 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Hey gloom, on the stop start front, what is it that Audison provide and how does in work/integrate with an aftermarket radio?

Cheers,

James
Its essentially a box connected to the power wires before your aftermarket HU (or in my case before the bit ten) and delivers constant voltage even on voltage drops caused by the engine firing up.

The oem radio or satnav units got this feature built in already.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,069 Posts
In regards to the rubber cylinder hose for the door it is possible to get the cable in but it is very very difficult due to the wiring plugs in the way. I was also to do it without poking holes into the rubber as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
616 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
In regards to the rubber cylinder hose for the door it is possible to get the cable in but it is very very difficult due to the wiring plugs in the way. I was also to do it without poking holes into the rubber as well.
Wow kudos to you. Was too much fiddeling to me :)
Its practicly invisible cause its so deep in anyway
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
I just want to point out a few discoveries I've made as I've installed and setup my audio system in the car.

1. Don't forget the screws inside of the handle beneath the small rubber piece. Easily broken if you bend the doorcard forgetting about these.

2. If you have tweeters oem, aftermarket normal size tweeters will fit exactly inside.

3. The oem radio is NOT EQUALIZED. The output level is FLAT.

4. The tweeters use the same color cables as the mids. Not separate channels from the oem radio.

5. The rubber cylinder hose that houses the cables going from inside the car to the door CAN'T BE PENETRATED. You will need to have the cable go beside it. Why? There's no hole in the ends but a wire harness at each side with connectors.

6. Green plastic plugs holding door cards etc are completely new and not based on old models and cost 2-3£ each.

7. L-shaped kick panel at passenger side close to center is easily broken if removed but costs only about 5£ from honda.

8. Plastic covers inside of the door handles will easily break, ESPECIALLY the rears. Will probably be cheap from Honda, but I reinforced with double sided tape. These WILL cause rattle if not seated properly.

9. When equalizing the car with a external microphone and TrueRTA software ( TrueRTA Audio Spectrum Analyzer Software ) I found the curve quite straight except from around 50-80hz that needed to be lowered by alot.

10. The lower compartment in the trunk is perfect for amp install and you will still have room for tools etc (just secure them)

11. The oem speakers pulls up then towards you to be removed. The oem speakers can be cut out and used as a bracket for new speakers.

12. Both front and rear are 6.5" speakers.

13. When fitting new speakers with oem stereo, the volume threshold before distortion seems to be around 20 in volume on the oem stereo depending of the recorded volume of the music track.

14. There will be problems of varying kind with aftermarket units and the "Start/Stop" system. After entering idle stop at a traffic light etc, and when the engine starts again, your headunit will most likely shut off and on again (If you have a Bluetooth call or stream music, it will take a long time before reconnect).
Audison has a accessory to mend this and some other manufacturers might also have this, but be prepared for this.

15. There's a good grounding point underneath the seat close to where the seatbelt holder connects. There's several good grounding points behind the glove department including factory grounding points. There's no good grounding points underneath the most rear plastic cover in the trunk.

16. Going through the firewall from inside of the engine compartment is easy and you can reach it without removing anything. The inside however will be hard to access (You won't see the entrance at all) so basicly you need to fish the wire from the engine compartment until you can reach it underneath the glove department. This is what took most of my time initially.

If I forgot something, I will add later on. Feel free to ask questions and I will try to answer them.

To get aftermarket sound quality and beyond but keep oem stereo, I recommend Audison Bit Ten:

Audison bit - bit Ten
Are front/rear speakers the same shape, size? I' m asking bebause i need to know what kind of adapter to pirchase for the rear. Attahed is the pic i found for the front. Thanks,


Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top