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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Evening folks.
I'm trying to wire up an underseat powered pioneer sub. Can I heck work out the speaker wires for the front left and right woofers.
I've taken door cards off and wrote the colours down ( memory is cack) and it appears some wires are the pink with silver dot(FL) but not the red (FR) red is there but a different gauge.
I've googled it and all references are from America and they must have different coloured harnesses.
I've taken the passenger side kick panel off to check the amp and bloody wires don't correspond there either.
Can anyone reel off what all ten different plugs are on back of head unit, please?

Just for info, the car has 11 speakers.
Automotive tire Electrical wiring Computer cooling Cable Engineering
 

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So first things...assuming this a UK 10th Gen Civic, with the 11 speaker system? My install is on a UK 2019 Sport Plus with "Premium" audio (the 11 speaker system).

Firstly there are no speaker connections at the headunit itself on the 11 speaker system AFAIK. There is a digital connection, a single cable carrying an S/PDIF signal for all the sound data, between the headunit and the amplifier located on the side panel in the passenger footwell.

The actual connections to the speakers are from the amplifier on a multi-pin connector, so you will need to pick up the signals from here. As you have found there is no RCA output so you will need a line out convertor if your subwoofer does not accept speaker level inputs.

Apparently the signals to the rear speakers are not full range so you should take the signal from the front speakers.

These are the colours/positions/and functions on the multi-pin connector of the amplifier for my car for the front speakers.

Front Left Tweeter Positive - Position A14 - Yellow at Amp - Yellow at Speaker
Front Left Tweeter Negative - Position A15 - Green at Amp - Green at Speaker

Front Right Tweeter Positive - Position A16 - Light Green at Amp - Blue at Speaker
Front Right Tweeter Negative - Position A17 - Pink at Amp - Pink at Speaker

Front Left Woofer Positive - Position A5 - Light Green - Pink at Speaker
Front Left Woofer Negative - Position A6 - Light Blue - Black at Speaker

Front Right Woofer Positive - Position A12 - Purple at Amp - Red at Speaker
Front Right Woofer Negative - Position A13 - Grey at Amp - Black at Speaker

I take no credit for the following images, they were found on this thread which was very useful Photos of Touring Amp. Note that this shows a subwoofer output, those positions will be empty on UK car (as we can't handle the bass apparently :).) In addition I think the A12/13 connections polarities are wrong on these diagrams - i.e. purple is positive, grey is negative, hence the difference in my notes above,

Product Rectangle Font Output device Parallel
Font Line Parallel Cable Advertising

Hope this helps.




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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you, that's Spot on👍
I'll let you know how I get on. On my hols at the moment so it'll be a week or two til I get on to it.
Appreciate your help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi there,
I'm getting on with fitting my sub. It's a pioneer underseat with remote.
I've got the speaker level connection done and connected the power lead. I've temp connected the switch power to same at constant power just to try the speaker but, as soon as I try upping the bass the speaker cuts out?
Also what did you connect your switch power to?
Many thanks for your help.
 

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Mine is a big Alpine one in the boot, I took the switch feed from the auxiliary power socket in the boot as it only comes on with the ignition. The switch power line does need a heavy duty feed its just sensing the voltage.

Does the Pioneer have speaker level inputs or are you using a line out convertor? - could the input level be set too high on the input which might cause a protection circuit on the sub to kick in - I assume it's just the sub cutting out not the rest of the speakers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hi mate,
I forgot to say in my original post it does have the 11 speaker set up.
I've got it sussed I think!
I've fed the switch feed through the dash and used a piggyback fuse holder.
I think that when the volume or frequency is turned up and there is a high bass signal it pulls a lot of power(?). I tried with the engine on and wacked the bass, frequency, gain and owt else that had a max on it and it works as it should.
Don't know if what I've done is right but it works!
Just now gonna fiddle with it to find what sounds best....after a couple of beers in the garden sun🍻.
Really appreciate your help.
 
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