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With winter coming, and the time I want to / have light to spend outside washing and waxing the car diminishes, I'm wondering what you use for wax / paintwork protection topups, preferably something that can be sprayed on and buffed, just to top up the AutoGlym Resin Protect base + CodeKlean Wax top coat I've already completed.
Previously, I did have a bottle of cheap simoniz liquid wax that I picked up from tesco - It did the job, And could be applied wet and buffed off with drying, making application very quick, though longevity was max 1 week.

Whilst I know I can't expect massive longevity from a quick-application product, I'd like it if there was something that could push protection to 2, or at a push 3 weeks, allowing for crappy weather weeks.

I'm looking for beading, obviously, but couldn't care less about the size / shape of beads, so anything that is a wax / resin / ceramic coating that can go on & off quickly and lasts around 2 weeks is a good shot :p
 

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I keep getting told off by the aficionados but I've found JML Mantis to be brilliant. Quick and easy and the microfibre just slides off the bonnet as I would expect.

Spray it anywhere and everywhere, avoiding the windscreen and no powdery residue.


I must stress that it's advertised as a waterless wash but I only use it after a wash instead of normal wax.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/JML-Mantis-Instant-Shine-Professional/dp/B00DNGGZL6
 

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Used megs ultimate fast finish I think it's great I usually try and wash at least once a fortnight during winter

Plenty of snowfoam is needed with all the gunk on the roads

Aqua wax is also good
Megs quick wax is equally as good
 

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I use Supersonic Sprints from autobrite direct and have to say that it gives great effect and it’s so easy to apply.

https://www.autobritedirect.co.uk/products/supersonic-sprints--spray-and-rinse-top-seal-sprints


I couldn’t really check it on my cars as they are regularly pampered but then my father in law came from Poland with his neglected 1998 VW Passat that probably has never been waxed and I was amazed with shine that this product gave as well as water repelling.

 

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If you only have time for a spray wax the the Autoglmn isn’t bad. Or you could spend a bit more time & apply say Collinite 845 & that’ll see you good for 3-4 months without the need for top ups.
 

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Meguiars Gold Class premium spray wax. Carnauba spray wax. Easy spray then wipe on and gentle polish off. I also like Siramik SC mist.


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The problem with wax is it comes off way too quickly and when it degrades after some weeks dust and sand can easily stick to it. Wax is also expensive to produce. There are some far longer lasting man made sealents in a spray that also can act as a drying aid. I have switched from Wax to a sealent called Gtechniq C2 Liquid Crystal v3. Very quick to apply and buff with another cloth and looks just as shiny as Wax. A bottle also lasts much longer. than wax

Only bunner is you need to get rid of the old wax using something like fairy liquid that you must then wash off very well as it has a little salt in it but nothing compaired to the salt you pick up driving.
 

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Agree with the spray sealant....but fairy liquid doesn’t work, it produces a layer over the wax which gives the appearance that the wax has been removed.
 

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The only real way of stripping is mechanical abrasion i.e machine polishing. If your wax is on its last legs then you’ll probably get away with a dedicated wax off product & claying.
 

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Hmm, I was thinking of stripping and resealing come spring, what would you recommend for removing all waxes and light sealants?

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G3 detox car shampoo will strip quite a bit.

If you can't machine polish the car, follow up with a clay and then an AIO polish or paint cleanser (Bilt Hamber do a great one by the way)

After this you can then wax/ seal

There are may more stages if you really want to go the whole hog - check out detailing World :wink3:
 

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I am not so convinced there is anything wrong with using Fairy Liquid to remove the wax. Washing up liquid has a shed load of salts to cut the grease/oil/wax and vinegar as a rinse aid that should remove and prevent residue...

Fairly liquid ingredients: Water, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Chloride, Lactic Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Parfum, Limonene, Geraniol, Citral, Linalool, Colorants, Vinegar.

Note Cocamidopropyl Betaine is not an oil though it is derived from coconut oil.

I wonder if the residue reported is because when the (British?) do the washing up in a bowl you can often taste the fairy liquid in the glass. It should all come off because Vinegar is the rinse aid as when I do the washing up I do it over running water. I am convinced Fairly is pretty good stuff and the results on my car with a layer of Gtechniq C2 was like glass and I have never felt anything so frictionless.

The other car (a Yaris T-Sport) also black, is still on wax. While both cars now have dust and dirt, the dirt on the sealant comes off cleaner when I use my finger. Interestingly after the rain the sealant produces lots of smaller water droplets while the wax appears to form larger water droplets.
 

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1. pre wash koch chemie gs,
2. spray wheels with autosmart red7 and agitate with brush
2. wash with meguiars wash & wax.
3. seal with car pros hydro2
4. dress tyres with meguiars endurance.
a hell of a lot less effort than any spray wax, wax, qd. the jet wash does most of the work and there's no need to dry the car either. i just run the car around the block to get the brakes dry.
 

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I recently bought the farecla G3 and tried it on the Mrs Car and I'm pretty impressed with the look and longevity. I sprayed on the car wet which I think made it a little harder to buff out but the finish was good seeing the car had very little prep.

Main reason for buying was to use as a top up wax on the civic once I've given it a full prep, polish and wax next weekend.
 

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I'd go with Bilt Hamber Cleaner Fluid to remove previous wax etc.

If you have time to apply a layer of wax/sealant, you won't go far wrong with either FK1000P or Fusso Coat, both will last up to 12 months if the car is washed regularly and FK1000P works wonders on wheels too.

If you can only manage top-up protection regime, then something like Gyeon Wet Coat might be the best way to go. It is at its most economical if applied to a microfibre towel and used as a drying aid after the final rinse.

The other way you could go about it if you can wash and dry but not much else, is to use Sonax BSD as a drying aid, which will give you similar protection to Gyeon Wet Coat, but a different visual/beading finish.
 
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