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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I just bought an FN2 a few weeks back to replace my sadly, sadly missed turbo charged MR2. The civic is immaculate, only 14K miles and bone stock.



So on and off over the last 2 weeks I've been sorting out the dreadful stock ice. It started with a few hours reading on here at the existing hows to's and off to eBay.. :popcorn:

Parts List
JL 360/4 – 4 Ch Amp
JL Component Speakers
JVC Head Unit - KW-R600BT
Connects 2 Facia & loom – CTKHD01
JL Sub and box – CS110-WXv2
Amp Wiring Kit
Speaker Adaptor SAK-2902
MDF rings for rear
Sound deadening
15m Speaker wire
Stalk Lead
RCA Leads
USB lead

Credit card now ****ed...

Job 1 - the HU
First job was to fit the new HU. I assembled the connects 2 loom and fitted the radio to the facia before starting in the car to save time. Followed the excellent how to on here, to remove the stock HU. Good tip not in the how to: Don't forget to take the brand new CD your wife just bought you out the stock HU before you remove it! This job was a bit of a git, some of the trims would not budge, took an hour to get it out but thankfully with no damage to anything.

Fitting the new HU was pretty easy except when putting the facia in I pressed a bit too hard and broke the thin bottom section - arghhh. :( In the pic you can see I have hidden it with a JL sticker lol. I had to use a USB extension to get the USB into the centre console storage too. The RCAs I just left coiled up under the dash for now. :)

Total time: 2 hrs ish.
Difficulty: Medium.
Result: Sounds much better even on crap stock speakers




Job 2 - Wiring
No pics of this but I ran the 2 x 5m RCA leads on the drivers side down the sill into the boot, loomed up with 2x runs of speaker cable for the front speakers. The speaker cable was coiled up under the dash ready for the speaker install. The Amp wiring kit, as per the how to runs the passenger side to the boot and enters the engine bay through the gromit above the clutch pedal. This was actually very easy despite what others have posted, 10 min job.

The two hardest bits of the job were getting the red +v cable onto the battery terminal through the cover on it and getting the thick loom of RCA/Speaker cables down the driver side sill. Good tip here is to lift the carpet and remove the metal brackets near the seat. If you don't the trim will not go back on.





Total time: another 2 hrs ish.
Difficulty: Medium/Easy

Job 3 - Install Amp and Sub
Dead easy once the wirings in. Amp screwed onto the surprisingly sturdy carpet side section in the boot. Wire up the speaker/power and remote feeds and job jobbed in 30 mins. For now I added the JL sub to test the amp. Annnnddd - nothing! Crap :confused: - multi meter out. Remote wire dead. Que 30 mins of tracing and head scratching, no faults on the wiring. Then the horrid truth dawns on me. The blue Remote wire on the connects 2 kit just doesn't work. Foook! :mad:

Now at this point the thought of pulling the HU out again was sickening. Luckily the connects 2 facia can be removed just by removing the top trim. So quick re-wire to connect the remote wire to the switch 12 v live wire and its all good. Another 15 mins tuning HU and amp levels for the sub, all done.




Total time: should have been <1 hour!
Difficulty: Easy
Result: Boom Boom Boom - bass heads beware - getting there.

Job 4 - Component Speaker Install on front
Okay - Read the how to first on door card removal. Then read it again. Then read up on how to get wires through the doors. The first door always takes the longest to learn/practice what you read. Pretty straight forward job though. I used plastic adaptors for the JL speakers but I siliconed the speakers to them and screwed them in to stop rattles. I deadened the area around the speaker and behind it too.

The worst bit of this job was getting the wire though the doors. I used a curtain wire as a guide and then pulled the speaker cable I had colied up under the dash through. The 2nd door was much faster. Sore hands afterwards! On testing, even though I had the tweeter set at reference level on the crossover, ie not raised or cut, still a bit harsh. I had to EQ them down -2DB.




Speakers in - ignore the rest of the deadening on the door - I did that later.


Total time: about 3.5 hours
Difficulty: Speakers Easy, door wires Medium
Result: Excellent :):cool:, system really sings now. The fronts can't drop low but the sub does that.

Job 5 - Sound deaden the whole door.
The mid bass on the fronts was good but the tweets were over powering it so I figured I'd go in again and deadened the whole door. Very easy to do just takes time.



you can see the x-over location in the 2nd pic too.

Total time: about 2 hours
Difficulty: Dead easy
Result: As expected mid bass much improved due to the enclosure created in the door by the deadening.


Job 6 - Unplanned design change. :rolleyes:
I'm not a big fan of subs in the rear doors/panels but I'm a bit too old for big boot subs, so thought what the hell give it a go. I'm skint though so ebay it is and some non name brand subs for £50 and MDF rings

The rear quarter trims comes off real easy, but getting the deadening in is a bit tricky with the space. For subs you need a lot of it behind and around the panel. The subs were a bit big too. I had to take out some of the metal panel near the bottom of the speaker. The wiring was dead easy as its right next to the amp anyway.



Took me about 3 hours all in. Nice clean boot now..


Result: Suprisingly good. ;) I won't lie the JL 10" boot sub is better, drops lower and hits hard. But these hit faster and unless you want alot of bass are just fine. Still have some rattles at high volume though, but in the rear panels thats to be expected. A sealed sub box is always better.

Will see how they go. Worse case I can put the JL sub back in and get some cheap coaxials for the rear and run them off the HU.

All in all I am pleased with the install. Next up engine and flashpro - once I pay my ice debt off.....
 

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Looks good, but you have posted in the 9g section, probably won't get as many views
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Updated - Added some better pics to the original post showing the rear subs, finish view of fronts and engine bay.

Mods thanks for moving this to the 8G forum! :rolleyes:
 

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wow I take my hat off to you, very good and tidy job there fella

I bet the sound transformation Is amazing, I had a very similar build In my old pug that I got rid off when I got my FN2

I had JL Audio front components, JL 6x9's In a custom built stealth-shelf, both running off the 360/4 you have got with the 12" version of your sub In the boot running off a JL Audio 250/1

I also found that my tweeters that were positioned right under the windscreen on the dash In the pug way too overpowering and bright, I could not cut enough at the crossover and ended up doing the same as you

Have you thought about maybe doing a custom sub build In the bottom boot section?, I was very tempted to try this by taking the sub out the box, attach the JL speaker gaurd for protection, point It upwards, re-enforce the lid with MDF and utilize the free area underneath for drive and amps

I chickened out In the end and ended up selling all my spare audio to raise cash for other bits for my FN2, I very rarely listen to music In my car as the oem rubbish Is not good for ....

Sorry to hijack your thread a bit, I am so glad you posted this up as Its just given me a kick In the right direction and got me thinking again :D
 

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That's a great install mate. What rolls did you use for sound deadening? Currently in search for something good but not as expensive as Dynamat.
 

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Discussion Starter #8

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Discussion Starter #9
Have you thought about maybe doing a custom sub build In the bottom boot section?, I was very tempted to try this by taking the sub out the box, attach the JL speaker gaurd for protection, point It upwards, re-enforce the lid with MDF and utilize the free area underneath for drive and amps
I've been looking at other folks installs today thinking about that today. The rear quarter subs were an experiment but I think I'll go back to the boot sub and just put a cheap set of coaxials in the rear running off the HU for rear fill. I don't want to add too much weight though, thats what is putting me off a build.

I've done loads in the past on my old cars.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Did an A/B test on the rear subs vs the boot sub today. I didn't want the weight penalty but the boot sub does sound a fair bit better. No rattles at all and drops lower. So Door subs will be replaced by a cheap set of coaxials (thanks to the missus for xmas :p) and the boot sub is back.



The full install works out just shy of 30kg, would have been 20kg without the boot sub. Overall robbing me of approx 4 bhp, hum ho :rolleyes:
 

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Great stuff mate. I was actually going to have a look at your car at the garage in Mansfield before I bought mine recently, looked extremely clean from the advert. I've been messing on with replacing the standard head unit and speakers recently. Unfortunately my Connects2 box was faulty, so I'm currently waiting for a replacement... had to remove my nice new Alpine double din and put the standard stuff back in. Oh joy.
 

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Woooooooooo a DSB Type R im so jealous :(
 

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Discussion Starter #14
What gauge of power cable is that your running from the battery to the amp?

Doesn't look that heavy to me :worms:
The wire is 40amp wire (AWG 8). I was a bit worried about that too as the amp recommends 60 amp cable if its run at full pelt all four channels. So I downgraded the fuse to match the thinner cable. I tried it at loud enough to hurt volume and the fuse stayed intact so I think I'm good. :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Great stuff mate. I was actually going to have a look at your car at the garage in Mansfield before I bought mine recently, looked extremely clean from the advert.
It is, pretty much a new car condition wise. Even the engine bay was like new. Only a couple of small stone chips on the front. Alloys perfect too. The only flaw is the previous owner used a yellow sponge or car wash on it so its swirlled pretty bad. Once the winters gone I'm going to do paint correction on it and give it a taste of meguiars 3 stage :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well my rear co-axial's finally arrived today. Had been delayed as I accidentely ordered the wrong size first time around. So swapped out the rear door subs (which were disconnected as the boot sub is back) for them.

Dead easy swap, just needed to fade +2 to front to stop them hi jacking my sound stage and give the sub a bit more gain to compensate.

I'm really taken back how good the system sounds. With no road noise I'd rate it up there with my Arcam + B&W home system which is audiophile grade and cost alot more! JL Audio FTW :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
nice and neat! by the way, what is the size of the front speakers? is it a straight swap? did you use mdf spacers?
Fronts and rears are both 16.5cm or 6.5". You need spacers, you can buy/make MDF ones or buy the plastic adaptors off ebay.
 
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