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Discussion Starter #1
Any help from any auto-electricians/anyone had this fault before would be much appreciated....

Tried to start car this morning, ignition on & pushed start button and nothing. All dash display blank. Tried again and this time dash flickering & various warning lights flashing on/off. Suspected flat battery - checked voltage with ignition off - 12.8v. Ignition on & no electrics on - 9.0v. Possibly something pulling voltage when ignition switched on.

Connected booster pack and started first time no problems. Removed jump pack and test drove. Now and again power would switch off for a split second whilst driving and reset clock etc. Also noticed window switch auto up/down (holding switch) would not work & switching on lights or any other circuit like heaters etc, dash lights would go very dim and engine revs pick, along with various dash lights coming on and off.

Now im thinking possibly either battery u/s (3yrs old now), something drawing voltage (booster pack may have compensated for this allowing a start), Earth/wiring fault (battery pack may have provided a good earth allowing a start.)

Have noticed now and again over past few months battery will drain overnight. Few and far between this happens though. Car does have an aftermarket stereo & amp fitted and have noticed again from time to time, power will cut out on stereo for a few seconds before coming back on whilst driving. Pulled fuse from both but fault is still active. Only other faults im aware of is a worn gearbox stabilizer arm - noticed by an exhaust fitter last week when I had by exhaust repaired. Have done 200miles since the repair so dont think its anything he's disturbed.

Working 13:00-22:00 all week and flying off to spain for a week on friday so only have a few hours each morning to have a play.

So far im planning to try: battery analyser to test battery (got one in work), remove stereo and check wiring behind, check earth & power leads for corrosion/loose, Iv'e got a snap on ethos+ so i'll check for any fault codes too - guessing im going to find alot haha these are probably going to be brought on by the underlying fault however but still worth a check.

These symptoms similar to anything anyone has had before or any more ideas for anything to check? Im thinking its most likely an earth fault at the moment so a list of locations of earths would be very handy and if possible, a wiring schematic ;)

Cheers,
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I suspect your battery is tired or just wants a good overnight charge
Possibly. Car did have a good run yesterday though and is used daily. I'll check output voltage from alternator also to rule charging side out, but like I said, battery is showing 12.8v.

I'll remove it and charge tonight and run a few load tests with the analyser in morning.

Anymore ideas if battery turns out to be ok?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Fingers crossed :). Nothing I hate more than electrical faults :worms:, id rather open the bonnet and see carnage lol

Is it just me or does Honda and free in the same sentence - just doesnt sound right lol. The cars a non runner anyway, and with my holiday fast approaching im releuctant to take it to a garage yet, so just me and my multimeter on the drive atm.
 

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I booked our car in for a strange knocking noise which turned out to be dirt and road chipping on the front shocks in the spring seats, I could not look myself as I was sent to hospital by the doctor in a ambulance day before and had a severe stomach infection in fact so serve they wanted to admit me but I discharged myself and went home with my antibiotics but was in no fit state to play with the car. Long story short Honda spent a full hour looking over the car and when I asked what I owed they said nothing just a free health check, mind you they do service the car etc but either way was well happy.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
When the engine is running you should have around 14v at the battery but I am sure there are loads of YouTube videos to watch on what you should get
Yup, around 14v on 12v system, around 27v/28v on a 24v system (im more used to working on). In my experience, 12.8v should at least start the car though which is why im not 100% it is the battery, would definatly be enough to turn engine over even sluggishly, but I have nothing. And also with ignition on, voltage plummets to 9v. No way should turning on ignition draw that much unless theres a short or faulty component.

But then again, a faulty cell in the battery may cause something similar and its definately the logical place to start.

I'll update in morning anyway, cheers :).
 

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yes I agree possible faulty battery cell and to be honest if its old enough then a very cheap part to change to test and eliminate this plus I would guess most likely part that is faulty as well so worth the gamble. My mate had his ignition on around half hour yeserday with the radio while he waxed his car and after this he had to borrow my battery charger as his car would not turn over never mind start so these really do drop quick on the ignition with all the systems that are running in the background ;)
 

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If your meter has a current test, use that to see what the draw is with the ignition off and all the doors closed. It should be less than 0.05amps. Anything more and you likely have a circuit running the battery down overnight.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
yes I agree possible faulty battery cell and to be honest if its old enough then a very cheap part to change to test and eliminate this plus I would guess most likely part that is faulty as well so worth the gamble. My mate had his ignition on around half hour yeserday with the radio while he waxed his car and after this he had to borrow my battery charger as his car would not turn over never mind start so these really do drop quick on the ignition with all the systems that are running in the background ;)
Ai, i'll be going for this first. The batterys only 3yrs old but with upgrading the headunit, amp, reverse camera etc could have lead to early failure.

If your meter has a current test, use that to see what the draw is with the ignition off and all the doors closed. It should be less than 0.05amps. Anything more and you likely have a circuit running the battery down overnight.
Yup, thats why I pulled the fuses on amp and stereo first. I'll check this tomorrow also. If it is draining maybe start pulling fuses from each ciruit one at a time till I pinpoint whats at fault.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Have you checked that the battery terminal connections are clean and tight?
Yup, they're ok. Slight bit of rust on the chassis side of the earth lead from battery, havent removed and checked if its rusty on the mating face yet. Good shout though, i'll take a bit of emery cloth home tonight and make sure theyre all clean.

Anyone had any problems with starter relay/main power relays etc failing? And also whats the best way to get at the starter motor, bearing in mind its on the drive. Wouldnt mind checking the connections on on that also. Dont know if its common but since ive owned the car, from cold when ignition switched on and I push the start button, first or second time nothing happens, just a click and sometimes a whirring noise from engine. My first thoughts where possible starter motor on its way out or loose connection but when I searched the forums a while back all I came up with is the headlight self leveling fault. When engine is warm, usually starts first time off button though. Could this be related or is it just the headlight fault people have had?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Bit of an update:

Got home from work and itching to have a play lol. After a quick look about, found an earth strap on r/h engine mount loose. Removed cleaned up and refit (tight this time). Keyed on, fault still apparent but could be just battery flat. Attached boost pack. All faults gone. Used battery analyser - "bad battery" test result. Analyser is pretty good and will tell you if insufficient charge so suspect battery u/s. Removed battery and left to charge overnight. I'll run a test in morning and if still fails, i'll have to go battery shopping.

Anyone know the standard cold crank amps for the original battery? This ones 545 but i know isnt the original.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
All is now well :) for the sake of anyone whos forum search leads you here:


After removing battery from overnight charge, tested voltage - 13.8v. Refit into car and attempted start - started but any electrics switched on would really lug car down. Checked alternator output - around 15v which is ok. Rechecked battery with engine off - 12.3v. Carried out load and recover tests with analyser - failed. Bought new battery and fit - everything working ok :).

Battery might have failed because of the dodgy earth or both were causing the faults I had.
 

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Glad you got it sorted buddy! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Good stuff! Did you go for the Bosch?
Nah, halfrauds tried telling me the bosch one they had on the shelf was for my car but I could clearly see the terminals were wrong way around :facepalm:

Got one from the local supac, cant complain for £40 and 3yr warranty :)
 
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