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Discussion Starter #1
I just bought a used 2.2L i-CDTI a few weeks ago and found a really strange problem with the electrics and/or central locking.
I drive it everyday to work which is 30 mins away with no problem, but if I drive it for more than an hour during the weekend and I arrive at my destination, the remote central locking won't work. It will take several minutes for the central loking to work again. Not the remote battery as I can see the red LED on the remote lighting everytime I press the remote.

Tried to start the car yesterday and just left it on for 2 hours with the engine running. After 2 hours, turned the engined off..removed the key from the ignition...the courtesy interior light just flicked on to off for a millisecond (this is my sign that the remote central locking won't work based on previous occurences)...got out of the car....remote central locking won't work...locked the car using the driver door with the car and it just locks the driver door and all other doors can still be opened from the outside...i have to wait 2 more hours before the remote central locking worked again.

Booked it for diagnostics with Honda but wnyone here has any experience or idea what is going on :confused:
 

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My car had the MICU recall and this was not a problem before - the MICU problem seems to affect the alarm system, my central locking worked fine before and after the fix :confused:
 

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If it only happens after 1-2 hours travelling, Its probably a heats/expansion issue.
Which could be a bad circuit board trace or a wire being stretched and making a bad connection.

Original Honda Car Parts from Lings - Model Selection
Have a look on the diagrams here.
Check all the door sensors etc... and plugs are properly connected.
Hvae you checked the alarm engages.... with 3 indicator flashes ?
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Hvae you checked the alarm engages.... with 3 indicator flashes ?
thanks very much for the link.
The alarm and central locking won't engage.
I tried using the key on the door but it is only the driver door that will lock and the alarm won't arm.
Honda can't seem to find the problem as well but they can re-create the problem. They said the electrical side of the computer is dead and won't communicate with the diagnostics computer.
Any ideas?
 

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You mean the OBDII port is down and they cant scan for error codes???
Anyway if the alarm wont arm thats a good thing.... probably means you have a door/bonnet/boot close sensor which is knackered or shorting out.
1. Very Cheap - First check all the fuses.
2. Cheapish - Locate and Go through all the central locking and alarm sensors/switches one at a time and make sure they are mounted, connected and working.
(Theres been a few issues where the ECU hasnt picked up a door is closed properly or similar so wont lock and wont alarm).
3. :panic: - If that fails its either gonna be a mainboard or wiring fault.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You mean the OBDII port is down and they cant scan for error codes???
Anyway if the alarm wont arm thats a good thing.... probably means you have a door/bonnet/boot close sensor which is knackered or shorting out.
1. Very Cheap - First check all the fuses.
2. Cheapish - Locate and Go through all the central locking and alarm sensors/switches one at a time and make sure they are mounted, connected and working.
(Theres been a few issues where the ECU hasnt picked up a door is closed properly or similar so wont lock and wont alarm).
3. :panic: - If that fails its either gonna be a mainboard or wiring fault.
Thanks again.

Yes, Honda can't get any error codes because the car computer is down.
If it is the sensor on one of the doors, should the courtesy light inside stay on/lighted?
The courtesy light was off immediately after I removed the key from the ignition.
 

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Thanks again.

Yes, Honda can't get any error codes because the car computer is down.
If it is the sensor on one of the doors, should the courtesy light inside stay on/lighted?
The courtesy light was off immediately after I removed the key from the ignition.
There's usually a permanent or door only selector switch by the light...cant say I have needed it so havent checked for sure.
The two map lights can be switched on individually too if I recall.
But it could potentially be the car thinks a door is still open... hence the light stays on and it wont lock or alarm, except by key.
 

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I assume the "door open" warning symbol is not illuminating ? Does it work for each door, bonnet, etc. when the fault is present ?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
There's usually a permanent or door only selector switch by the light...cant say I have needed it so havent checked for sure.
The two map lights can be switched on individually too if I recall.
But it could potentially be the car thinks a door is still open... hence the light stays on and it wont lock or alarm, except by key.
The light don't even turn on after I removed the key from the ignition.
It usually comes on when I only use the car on a short trip and when the central locking is working.

The light is always set to the middle position so it turns on when one of the door is still open or after i remove the key from the ignition.

But because of this 'strange' happenings when used on long trips (as described on my first post), the lights won't turn on after i remove the key from the ignition which is my sign that the central locking and alarm won't work even without trying the key yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I assume the "door open" warning symbol is not illuminating ? Does it work for each door, bonnet, etc. when the fault is present ?
the 'door open' symbol is not lit.
i do not understand the 2nd question. what is the "it" in the question?
 

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Oh sorry, what I meant was, when the fault is present does opening and closing each door, etc. cause the symbol to illuminate ?

There is a piece of electronics by the fuse box called the MICU which controls these type of functions, I wonder if it is getting too hot ? Consider getting a freezer spray to cool it down rapidly and see what happens. Could also see the effect of air conditioning on low for a while.

Also, there was a recall on the MICU, use Honda website to see if this applies to your car.
 

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the 'door open' symbol is not lit.
i do not understand the 2nd question. what is the "it" in the question?
Ok.. then my best guess would be
1. Bad earth point so the current builds in the circuits instead of sinking or
2. Cracked circuit board which expands under heat/expansion or
3. Bad wiring/plug thats being stressed with heat/expansion

I would also check the condition of the battery as the ECU has been known to do lots of weird and winderful things if the charge is too low or drops too low.
Considering you cant use the diagnostics port either....makes the above more likely IMO.
Problem is tracking where the fault is.
 
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Discussion Starter #14
strange things happened again yesterday.
the car was parked for almost 8 hours at the office car park with temperature around 17C (I know, in England?).
when i tried to unlock the doors with the remote, it won't unlock.
tried several times but won't work so i unlock manually using the driver's door but that sounded the alarm..put the key on the ignition and waited for the alarm to turn off...remove the key and the door won't lock with the remote..decided to drive home but the door won't lock with the remote after i got home (it has always worked with my short 20 minute drive from/to office and and home)...wait for 30 minutes and the door did lock again with the remote...

decided to look on the battery colour indicator on the battery unit...colour was black which means the battery is half-full...went inside to get my voltmeter and the indicator colour changed from black to green which means it is fully charged before i can even try the voltmeter...the car engine and the key was not in the ignition during this time...
:confused::confused::confused:
 

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There is a battery in the key that gets charged while in the ignition.
These batteries will give up and need replacing.... so get that replaced @ honda first just to rule it out.
See where you are after that.
Or would also consider changing the battery for the bosch S4 I think it is ... for the money it costs its a nother potential cause out the way and will need changing afer 3-5 years anyway.
Derek Riddell knows what the right battery is so give him a PM if you want one.

I still think you have bad wiring somewhere.... but without removing other potential causes its difficult to be certain.
 
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Interesting bit of info there Relic; Is the key battery a lithium ion button cell or something more exotic/expensive/obtainable?

Dave
 

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You said when you remove the key the interior light does not come on, if you open the door with the key in the ignition dies it give a warning about the key. It could potentially be a problem with the barrel? Have you also a spare key to try in case the coding is somehow scrambled?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
You said when you remove the key the interior light does not come on, if you open the door with the key in the ignition dies it give a warning about the key. It could potentially be a problem with the barrel? Have you also a spare key to try in case the coding is somehow scrambled?
yes, it did give the warning for the key when i opened the door and the key was still on the ignition.. i have tried my other key on one of the tests and had the same problem with central locking and interior lights.
 
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