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Discussion Starter #1
I got round to installing a 1000w Fli sub and amp to the factory headunit with use of a LOC.

Checked all connection and stuck a CD in with a lot of bass... and was disappointed.

The sub is working as you can hear and feel when touched but playing round with the setting on both amp and LOC bearly makes a difference. There's defiantly more bass but not much ... I expected even at volume setting 20 to get a loud boom boom ect and to see the sub speaker in action.

Something I've done wrong or is this to be expected from a factor HU?
 

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Not sure what you me by use of LOC but I had a similar problem, mine was because the connection of the wires from the speakers I taped into had not connected correctly.. I ended up making sure a bare wire to wire connection was made and that make a big differance. Soldering the wires is best if you can.
 

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i use a VIBE 2ch LOC (soldered on high-level side; RCA on preouts) and it works fine on the factory HU - 9gen Honda Connect system. Cant tell theres a LOC in the system at all and works just as well as pre-outs on the HU directly. functionality wise it's fine, no idea about sound quality, but no perceivable degradation over stock.

do you have the phase right?
i found with a reversed phase, then the bass would feel like it's behind you and lacked depth. in-phase made the bass feel like it's inside your head and felt a lot fuller.

i assume you've tried playing around with gains?
do you have a 3.5mm to RCA so you can test with your phone/laptop/whatever connected directly to the amp?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
This is what I did . Speaker wires have been tapped into using them blue wire splicers but the wire insulation stripped off before crimping.
Battery to Amp as standard.
Earth from amp to chassis
Earth from LOC to amp
12v switch on loc to cig lighter rear
Rem from LOC to amp

Checked the + and - wires on speakers are correctly tapped into

Don't get me wrong it's improved the bass in the car but seems lacking in the sense of use with a aftermarket unit. In the old car with aftermarket would shake the windows this doesn't.

Played around with the gain on amp and LOC = not much difference


So are you saying that there shouldn't be a difference in output from sub using factory HU?
 

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This is what I did . Speaker wires have been tapped into using them blue wire splicers but the wire insulation stripped off before crimping.

So are you saying that there shouldn't be a difference in output from sub using factory HU?
been there with the blue wire splicers (fyi: scotch locks).
95% of the time perfect, the rest of the time was either half volume or no signal at all so they're not that reliable. once i found this out, i moved to soldered and not had a problem since.

difference in output - no difference between using an aftermarket HU with RCA pre-outs and factory HU with LOC.
tbh, there should be no real difference between factory HU & LOC and aftermarket. amplifier duties are being taken away from the HU and done via an external amp.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok so you would advise me to revisit the scotch locks on speaker wires and solder them?

Would cheap rca leads cause much of an issue as the ones used were cheap/free sent by issue I Mean deteriation of the signal

And if no luck tomorrow I'll see if I can pick up a 3.5mm to rca and try it with my phone.

Thanks for advice and info btw
 

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Scotch locks should be banned in my opinion.
The only way to get s proper connection is to complete a soldered splice.

a. use a sharp knife to strip away about 1 cm of insulation from your existing wires WITHOUT cutting or damaging the metal conductor inside.
b. Expose about 1 cm of the metal conductor at the end of the wire you want to attach.
c. Then twist the exposed wire you want to attach around the exposed section of wire (2 cm long).
d. Solder into the join for a permanent connection.
e. Wrap the whole lot tightly with insulating tape or if at all possible use heat shrink.

That would give the best join.

Sent with the help of Tim Berners-Lee....
 

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Scotch locks should be banned in my opinion.
Except that the insulation displacement technique has been used successfully for years. But certainly not the best method in high current scenarios
The only way to get s proper connection is to complete a soldered splice..
Not true. Crimp and wire wrap are sometimes preferred over soldering.
 

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As soon as I removed the blue sctchlocks and connected directly it improved things, also as mentioned above try playing with the phase but sit in drives seat to listen not over it while messing.
Hope it improves for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
After yesterday failed attempt I've revisited the speaker wire taps and surprise to find the scotch locks hadn't spliced correctly into the new speaker wire. So stripped back both cables and soldered them n hay Presto a working sub. However I did notice when I wiggle the LOC plug that connect to the LOC it self loss of audio occurred.

The plugs pins seem a little loose. Must be a design floor or just because it's a cheapo LOC
 

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Auri

mine was ground cable fault. I expecting you have an adapter ( RAC ) if is adjustable then try to play with it. and if not check if all cable are connected properly I would recommend To have Multimeter or just pay £250-£300 and buy aftermarket headuni that makes things cooler and easy :)
 
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