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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Are the speakers the same size as OEM ?

I've known larger speakers accidentally touch parts of the car door metal and totally wreck the output.

Also check they are the correct Ohm rating for the headunit.
Yes they are 16.5cm same diameter. I haven't checked the ohm rating but I'm pretty sure they are correct.
 

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can you list the power outputs of the replacement head unit and check that it exceeds the speakers nominal power rating is a good a starting place.
also check ohm ratings.
easy enough to quickly wire one up with external wires and see if it sounds better.

1st place a loss of sound can happen if not high enough to drive the cones, then yep you need an amp to power high output.
2nd you will never achieve teeth chattering bass without a subwoofer/cabinet with it ported/horn setup, even in a civic.
3 if your just using the 4 door speakers, the space behind the speakers need sound proofing to improve the bottom and top end response from the air cavity behind the cone (will also reduce door rattle when turned up & less tinny) and the said sound proofing, producing an improved full sound range, door speakers rarely are designed to fully push below 50hz thats what a subwoofer is for.
4 if you get the wires spliced the wrong way, they can be out of phase but not work at their optimum.
5 Also set the distances all speakers in the Pioneer DSP part and if you have the frequency options set the following cut offs.
A set low cut off at 50hz and set it at -6Db if door speakers. -12Db if its a sub in the boot
B set mid to -6Db
C Set highs to -6Db

The pioneed DSP is very good so optimise for front seats then the rears add an ambient delay filling the chamber, if it has the mic addon you can also teach it the cars audio dynamics when driving to adjust levels on the fly in normal mode. i used to set a DSP mode then adjust bass +1 or 2 and treble always +1 higher on all my pioneer ICE setups on previous cars.

I would personally rewire the speakers to an amp even if just a 4 channel setup, on RCAs from the Headunit, with its own dedicated inline fused power from battery earthed close to the amp location. run RCA/remote poweron wire to location of amp in boot for example, and wire to door speakers from amp. Pioneer amps are not expensive, easy to have it all wire din and lookslick in the false bottom of the boot for example, so you can cover it when carrying shopping :) No harm in using better quality wiring than Honda oem, but dont go daft, i usually go for low loss copper speaker cable its relatively cheap online.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
can you list the power outputs of the replacement head unit and check that it exceeds the speakers nominal power rating is a good a starting place.
also check ohm ratings.
easy enough to quickly wire one up with external wires and see if it sounds better.

1st place a loss of sound can happen if not high enough to drive the cones, then yep you need an amp to power high output.
2nd you will never achieve teeth chattering bass without a subwoofer/cabinet with it ported/horn setup, even in a civic.
3 if your just using the 4 door speakers, the space behind the speakers need sound proofing to improve the bottom and top end response from the air cavity behind the cone (will also reduce door rattle when turned up & less tinny) and the said sound proofing, producing an improved full sound range, door speakers rarely are designed to fully push below 50hz thats what a subwoofer is for.
4 if you get the wires spliced the wrong way, they can be out of phase but not work at their optimum.
5 Also set the distances all speakers in the Pioneer DSP part and if you have the frequency options set the following cut offs.
A set low cut off at 50hz and set it at -6Db if door speakers. -12Db if its a sub in the boot
B set mid to -6Db
C Set highs to -6Db

The pioneed DSP is very good so optimise for front seats then the rears add an ambient delay filling the chamber, if it has the mic addon you can also teach it the cars audio dynamics when driving to adjust levels on the fly in normal mode. i used to set a DSP mode then adjust bass +1 or 2 and treble always +1 higher on all my pioneer ICE setups on previous cars.

I would personally rewire the speakers to an amp even if just a 4 channel setup, on RCAs from the Headunit, with its own dedicated inline fused power from battery earthed close to the amp location. run RCA/remote poweron wire to location of amp in boot for example, and wire to door speakers from amp. Pioneer amps are not expensive, easy to have it all wire din and lookslick in the false bottom of the boot for example, so you can cover it when carrying shopping :) No harm in using better quality wiring than Honda oem, but dont go daft, i usually go for low loss copper speaker cable its relatively cheap online.
Gee thanks for the ton of information!

The pioneer head unit is 4x50

Speakers is 250 watt max.

I was told it's enough to handle it

Upon just moving my car from a spot just now I've noticed my driver side speaker was working I think it might have come loose yday, it was really hard to tell bcus the tweeter was blasting some noise also I felt the sound was pretty off yesterday. I'm hoping that was the issue I was experiencing, additionally the phase out issue..

So later on I will try and adjust the speaker harness somehow. I also ordered the wiring harness just to make sure it's all done properly.

Is treble listed as "loudness"? As I cannot see that setting in the options.

Yes I was told by alotnof people the head unit I have is good, it better be for £350!

If this is works fine I won't get a amplifier unless I get a subwoofer but will see. It's all ££ urgh

I've also bought some sound deadening material and foam pads that I will put directly behind the speaker magnet, it's those wavy looking acoustic materials, I've done my research for that!

First get my speakers set up properly, I was concerned I actually needed a amp but a sound specialist said no you don't necessarily because it can handle the power from my head unit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
So once I connected the speaker properly the sound was much better, I think it was just a case of the driver side not working. I'm still waiting for the connector to come in other then that it's working, the bass is deeper and there more clarity, maybe a bit to much but I guess thats where the sun woofer comes in.

I found adjusting the DB made a dramatic difference also, 10 being the highest does anyone have and recommendations on which to set the two front?

I found that if I had the front passenger at 10 and my side drive at 5 it's more balanced.

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Do all 4 at 6db and set fader 1or 2 to rear the balanced sound will sit between front seats and sound all around.

Loudness increases the top and bottom end frequncies gain at low volume with mp3s have loudness on it cuts out at volume level 15 on pioneers
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Do all 4 at 6db and set fader 1or 2 to rear the balanced sound will sit between front seats and sound all around.

Loudness increases the top and bottom end frequncies gain at low volume with mp3s have loudness on it cuts out at volume level 15 on pioneers
So I've just done that. So you say it's the best all around and if I just want all the muscle to me I guess 10db and balance set to default is best?

So I find this is the best for my speaker set up
Gadget Font Computer Communication Device Display device


Prior I had it set like this..
Computer Gadget Font Electric blue Display device


What's your thoughts? You seem to know a ton about 🔊! Also loudness as it definitely does it job I mean dramatically just putting it on low as compared to none but I find the higher it gets more pitchy and you lost the thump in the bass or so that's what I think it is.
 

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So I've just done that. So you say it's the best all around and if I just want all the muscle to me I guess 10db and balance set to default is best?

So I find this is the best for my speaker set up
View attachment 321682

Prior I had it set like this..
View attachment 321683

What's your thoughts? You seem to know a ton about 🔊! Also loudness as it definitely does it job I mean dramatically just putting it on low as compared to none but I find the higher it gets more pitchy and you lost the thump in the bass or so that's what I think it is.
Also loudness as it definitely does it job I mean dramatically just putting it on low as compared to none but I find the higher it gets more pitchy and you lost the thump in the bass or so that's what I think it is.
^ correct loudness only works at lower volumes it boosts bottom and top (so bass and treble) so you can hear them easier at lower volumes, it falls off around volume level 15 on the head unit.

The EQ is the heads units DSP (Digital sound Processor) it should also have somewhere you can put the distances to each speaker in, the DSP then uses this to add delay relevant to the speaker distances, improving the ambient sound of the car dimensions and placement being taken into consideration, this makes a huge difference, think of it a bit like a home cinema setup, but in your car and that's a DSP in action.

i would pick EQ powerful (was best for bluetooth streaming, DAB and CD/DVD/mo3 playback, from what i remember about my last pioneer DAB unit in the VW i fitted, this gave the best overall balanced sound. If you feel you need a bit more top end, do custom EQ and pull the graphic from 120khzish up a couple to end of the line (so all after that frequency) to increase overall bass do same from 80hz all the way to 20hz (bass/subliminal bass frequency) your door speakers probably crap out at 50hz tbh. Unless they are 3 ways speakers, doubt it at 16.5cm if you look at your speakers outputs there will be a frequency range listed, what you can do is also set the cut offs at the minimum and maximum ranges of the speakers, further optimising the sound to your output spec.

I found with good branded speakers (I had JBLs and tweeters connected to mine) +6Db (this is the nominal peak it allows like the volume bars on a hifi, optimal is 6decibels) speaker level all round gave the best sound stationary and while driving at not too silly a volume level.

I had a ported sub so i never used bass boost, if you do use that you wouldnt need Loudness set, or keep it at low.

ive left my type-r setup standard, the basic fujitsu with front tweeters and 4 door speakers, lose too much to change it in 9G, that might change when maps expire next year lol might go alpine this time, done a few builds over the last few years, cant be hooped personally anymore getting too old :) might get a pro job done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Also loudness as it definitely does it job I mean dramatically just putting it on low as compared to none but I find the higher it gets more pitchy and you lost the thump in the bass or so that's what I think it is.
^ correct loudness only works at lower volumes it boosts bottom and top (so bass and treble) so you can hear them easier at lower volumes, it falls off around volume level 15 on the head unit.

The EQ is the heads units DSP (Digital sound Processor) it should also have soemwhere you can put the distances to each speaker in, the DSP then uses this to add delay relevant to the speaker distances, improving the ambient sound of the car dimensions and placement being taken into consideration, this makes a huge difference, think of it a bit like a home cinea setup, but in your car and thats a DSP in action.

i would pick EQ powerful (was best for bluetooth streaming, DAB and CD/DVD/mo3 playback, from what i recember about my last pioneer DAB unit ion the VW this gave the best overall balanced sound. If you feel you need a bit more top end, do custom EQ and pull the graphic from 120khzish up a couple to end of the line (so all after that frequency) to increase overall bass do same from 80hz all the way to 20hz (bass/subliminal bass frequency) your door speakers probably crap out at 50hz tbh. Unless they are 3 ways speakers, doubt it at 16.5cm

I found with good branded speakers (I had JBLs and tweeters connected to mine) +6 speaker level all round gave the best sound stationary and while driving at not too silly a volume level.

I had a ported sub so i never used bass boost, if you do use that you wouldnt need Loudness set, or keep it at low.
Oh right thanks for clearing alot of that up for me I appreciate it.

I think I will stick to powerful plus bass +6 as I find super ass in EQ is to overpowering for my door speakers maybe more expensive ones can deal with it more not sure. For clarity powerful and manual adjustment for the bass works for me any highter then 6 it will become fuzzy, also another variable I found is the song not all songs some clear. Maybe 4-6 should be ok depending on the quality of the song.

Yes I'm looking at getting a sub tomorrow it's Fli trap 1000watt 12inch sub for £60 it has a built in amplifier. Any recommendations? Straight plug and play? The guy said he will help me do it. Also will it drain more battery if the car is off but electrics on. As when testing the speakers I don't want to waste petrol during these times.
 

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Oh right thanks for clearing alot of that up for me I appreciate it.

I think I will stick to powerful plus bass +6 as I find super ass in EQ is to overpowering for my door speakers maybe more expensive ones can deal with it more not sure. For clarity powerful and manual adjustment for the bass works for me any highter then 6 it will become fuzzy, also another variable I found is the song not all songs some clear. Maybe 4-6 should be ok depending on the quality of the song.

Yes I'm looking at getting a sub tomorrow it's Fli trap 1000watt 12inch sub for £60 it has a built in amplifier. Any recommendations? Straight plug and play? The guy said he will help me do it. Also will it drain more battery if the car is off but electrics on. As when testing the speakers I don't want to waste petrol during these times.
basically they do a run from battery with inline fuse and a remote enable feed and a pair of RCA leads to boot usually. Once you have that plugged into rear connectors via RCA, the head unit will then open up the ability to set your cut off frequencies for all 4 speakers and sub ;) you set the low cut off of the 4 door speakers at say 80hz (high cut off max of speakers) and then set top end of sub to 80hz, low end 20Hz if it goes that low (12" ported sub cabinet probs will) it will hit your MPG with weight and battery life yes, about same as head unit, bit more.

superbass is pointless your right to bin it, if you find one of the EQs that almost suits your taste, select it and adjust to what you need in DSP (then leave manual bass adjust ment), that becomes the "Custom" EQ setting mate.

i left bass n treble at 0 on it and adjusted the sound bubble in DSP first that gave enough, youll want the mids and tops boosted in an EQ if you fit a sub in boot, point the speaker away form you to rear of the boot, and set its curve at -12Db because that port will push sound to back glass and flow forward in cabin, thats correct placement and setting. not pointing towards you as you would expect, the sub will use the boots airspace to enhance the subliminal bass responses.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
basically they do a run from battery with inline fuse and a remote enable feed and a pair of RCA leads to boot usually. Once you have that plugged into rear connectors via RCA, the head unit will then open up the ability to set your cut off frequencies for all 4 speakers and sub ;) you set the low cut off of the 4 door speakers at say 80hz (high cut off max of speakers) and then set top end of sub to 80hz, low end 20Hz if it goes that low (12" ported sub cabinet probs will) it will hit your MPG with weight and battery life yes, about same as head unit, bit more.

superbass is pointless your right to bin it, if you find one of the EQs that almost suits your taste, select it and adjust to what you need in DSP (then leave manual bass adjust ment), that becomes the "Custom" EQ setting mate.

i left bass n treble at 0 on it and adjusted the sound bubble in DSP first that gave enough, youll want the mids and tops boosted in an EQ if you fit a sub in boot, point the speaker away form you to rear of the boot, and set its curve at -12Db because that port will push sound to back glass and flow forward in cabin, thats correct placement and setting. not pointing towards you as you would expect, the sub will use the boots airspace to enhance the subliminal bass responses.
Noted lol! I feel a immense information over flow 😆 thanks for that bro. I'm gonna visit the guy tomorrow he said he will set it up for me and said it's plug and play, he's got the cables and everything.

I trust him but I'm wondering if I need any connectors or anything as I only have the pioneer headunit with the all the cables at the back (harness) I'm not entirely sure where he's gonna plug everything. I'm sure it will make sense when he plugs it all in.

Hopefully it all goes well, I'll re-read your comments and try and set it up accordingly. I'll update you in known to ask more questions 🥲 thanks again very informative.
 

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Noted lol! I feel a immense information over flow 😆 thanks for that bro. I'm gonna visit the guy tomorrow he said he will set it up for me and said it's plug and play, he's got the cables and everything.

I trust him but I'm wondering if I need any connectors or anything as I only have the pioneer headunit with the all the cables at the back (harness) I'm not entirely sure where he's gonna plug everything. I'm sure it will make sense when he plugs it all in.

Hopefully it all goes well, I'll re-read your comments and try and set it up accordingly. I'll update you in known to ask more questions 🥲 thanks again very informative.
He will probs go thru the new options as he sets the right gain on the amp etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
He will probs go thru the new options as he sets the right gain on the amp etc.
So it was tested and working was fantastic! He wasn't as savy as yourself but knew more then me. He set it up and have the cables.

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Now I need to extend the leads but I know where everything goes L to L and R to

He said alternatively theres a hifidelity plug it's on the right hand side, he gave me the connectors for that so I know what to do with that. He says it's better, less bass more clarity?

What's your thoughts about that? Is it worth using that instead of the L and R plugs

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You've got the cables red to R- and L+, be careful at the speaker end or the phase will be wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
You've got the cables red to R- and L+, be careful at the speaker end or the phase will be wrong.
Oh yea lol he said that l+ and l- go together (touch) to go into the left jack is that right? And same for r+ and r-...
 

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Hmmm

Every speaker I've setup has been amp + to speaker + , etc.

They used to be very awkward when both wires were the same colour and the only identification was that one wire had a raised sort of line all the way down its length.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Hmmm

Every speaker I've setup has been amp + to speaker + , etc.

They used to be very awkward when both wires were the same colour and the only identification was that one wire had a raised sort of line all the way down its length.
Ah right, it is a old model fli trap so configuration could be different compared to the new ones. Well I'll give it a shot and follow that guys instructions and merch those +- together and same for the other side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 · (Edited)
Having issues trying to power up the sub does copper wires work?

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I have tried this thick silver one that does seem to work but my issue having it long enough to reach my head unit. Must it powered to the harness of the head unit? Or can I buy a cigarette adapter and plug it into the boot?

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I was just reading up I think it needs a specific gauge of wire but unsure of which one to use.
 

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Why are you bridging the 12v/Remote? 😕

Also, that’s the cable you’re using to power the amp?? Lol
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Stop being cheap and buy a proper wiring kit, they’re not that expensive 😜
And it needs to have 12V from the battery. Watch a video or do some research into how to properly wire an amp lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Why are you bridging the 12v/Remote? 😕

Also, that’s the cable you’re using to power the amp?? Lol
View attachment 321752

Stop being cheap and buy a proper wiring kit, they’re not that expensive 😜
And it needs to have 12V from the battery. Watch a video or do some research into how to properly wire an amp lol
It was already set up like that I didn't bridge it myself lol clever because it seems it was set up to be hooked directly to the headunit or fuse box.

I wasn't being cheap! Haha Actually I did watch a video into cabling I did not realise you needed a specific type and funny enough it just came in I ordered it yday, downside it's dark and cannot see a bloody thing
Font Computer hardware Electronic component Computer component Cable


Now I did some research on civicinfo *ahem and found people was going through the firewall and another dude did it through a grommet on the passenger door hindge area which was easier.

Additionally I will have to remove that make shift bridging wire if I am going to do it the traditional way and use the blue wire to go to the headunit so the subwoofer is off when the headunit is off vice versa.

Now need to figure which route is best, I was hoping to hook it up to the cigarette plug in the boot that would be so much easier.. thoughts? Lol!
 

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It was already set up like that I didn't bridge it myself lol clever because it seems it was set up to be hooked directly to the headunit or fuse box.

Actually I did watch a video into cabling I did not realise you needed a specific type and funny enough it just came in I ordered it yday, downside it's dark and cannot see a bloody thing View attachment 321755

Now I did some research on civicinfo *ahem and found people was going through the firewall and another dude did it through a grommet on the passenger door hindge area which was easier.

Now need to figure which route is best, I was hoping to hook it up to the cigarette plug in the boot that would be so much easier.. thoughts? Lol!
Direct feed from battery with the inline fuse earth it with a bolt under rear seat or bare metal ideally. The 3rd thin wire will remotely enable the amp n sub when head unit is powered on.

The ciggy lighter can only draw max of 50W at 8 amp, it would pop fuses like they were m n ms mate direct feed always for amp with short local earth.
 
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