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Successful install of Chinese Android unit in 2014 Tourer with nav

1034 Views 12 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  chinery
If you check my post history you'll see I've been having a nightmare with trying to install a Chinese Android unit in my 2014 Civic Tourer, but I've finally been successful. I wanted to write up the key findings in case it helps anyone else.

Here's the result:
Vehicle Motor vehicle Car Steering part Automotive design

Window Car Automotive tire Vehicle Motor vehicle



This is the stock navigation unit I was replacing:
Automotive navigation system Gps navigation device Vehicle Car Plant


I bought the HU from AliExpress, I don't want to mention the seller because they were so useless in their support, but with that caveat I will in case it leads others here: the shop was called Nevegetor. The reason I chose this unit was it was a high end spec, especially the screen. It does look stunning now that it's all working.

Specs:
Android 12
UIS7862(S) Octa-core 2GHz CPU
8GB RAM
128GB storage
2000x1200 resolution 10" IPS screen
Wireless Carplay, Wired Android Auto

The unit came with a harness for the Civic which included a canbus decoder – if you go on eBay and search for "16 pin Civic" you will find the exact ones (note the year). However, those harnesses are actually designed for the model without navigation. There is a 20-pin connector on the harness which is supposed to receive the canbus signal from the car, but in the models with factory nav, this signal is sent via a 24-pin connector instead.

I bought a 24-pin male connector from AliExpress and followed the re-wiring instructions in this PDF to identify the correct pins for the canbus. I also noticed that the InCarTec interface has an RCA connector wired to its 24-pin connector for the subwoofer output – I'm not sure if this is actually doing anything in my final solution, but the wire colours match the description from another set of instructions, so I wired an RCA connector into the pins corresponding to the Sub+ and Sub- pins below:
Circuit component Finger Electronic component Electrical wiring Hardware programmer

I also had to bypass the built-in amplifier on the head unit by cutting the wires for the speakers from the car, adding some RCA terminals, and connecting them to the AUX out connectors. I think this is a fairly common fix for this sort of issue (e.g. this video).
Hand Bicycle handlebar Gadget Audio equipment Wrist


Finally, to get the amplifier to power on, you need to supply power on the "AMP-CON" cable. This has been documented elsewhere on this forum so I won't belabour it. I just used a Wago connector.
Circuit component Hardware programmer Finger Computer hardware Electronic engineering


There is a pop when I turn on the engine from the amplifier turning on, so I'm not sure if this could be handled better somehow. But it works.

You might have noticed that I have two sets of guiding lines on the reverse camera in the image above. One of those is hardcoded into the camera itself that came from AliExpress, it's coming in with the video feed. It is even doing some image tracking to make the lines turn as you reverse. Which is interesting, but not hugely helpful as the lines aren't very accurate to the position of the car – you don't really go where they're pointing. The second set of lines is done through the Android software, and is highly customisable, so I was able to make them line up with the size of the car. They don't turn though (they didn't on the stock camera either, so I assume the car isn't sending that signal).

This took far too much of my time but now it's working I am very happy with the final solution. I basically leave the HU on the Apple Carplay app full time now. Finally the modern look of the head unit matches the modern look of the rest of the dash. Happy to try to answer any questions if I can.
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A pretty ambitious modification. Well done and many thanks for sharing.
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It would be very useful to be able to integrate Google Maps on an iphone with the Honda Sat Nav Circa 2012
Thanks.

I should add that the total cost for this system, even with extras and modifications (and some unsuccessful purchases that didn't help) still came in far below a similar spec unit from Kenwood, Sony, Alpine etc – all of which are constrained to the double din profile and thus have much smaller screens. That is, if I value my time as free 😅.
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Thanks.

I should add that the total cost for this system, even with extras and modifications (and some unsuccessful purchases that didn't help) still came in far below a similar spec unit from Kenwood, Sony, Alpine etc – all of which are constrained to the double din profile and thus have much smaller screens. That is, if I value my time as free 😅.
I've heard that android units have significant battery drain as they just go into sleep mode when turning the car off...is that the case? Have you tested it? Sometimes I may not drive for several days so dont want a dead battery.
I've heard that android units have significant battery drain as they just go into sleep mode when turning the car off...is that the case? Have you tested it? Sometimes I may not drive for several days so dont want a dead battery.
I'm not sure how one would test this, I'm not a car person! Is there an obvious way?

I've noticed that the unit boots up extremely quickly most of the time, but occasionally, if it has been a few days, it has to go through the full boot sequence which shows the Android splash screen. (Interestingly, I get several more pops from the amp in that case.) It going into sleep mode would certainly make sense to explain the speed. I can't tell you whether it knows to power off fully to preserve battery though. But as with most things Android, this is probably something that can be configured, given enough effort... I'd be interested to know too, as I obviously don't want a dead battery either!
I haven’t noticed that
I’m actually bought the same unit from Nevegator and attempting to install. As you say, the seller is absolutely useless in helping and I’m genuinely scratching my head!

I’m struggling to figure out which cables from the main harness connect to what, feels like some are to be left unconnected aswell?

I have a 2015 facelift hatchback with regular android head unit (no navigation). Were you able to find a wiring diagrams for this model? Would greatly appreciate any help I can get at the moment
I'm not sure how one would test this, I'm not a car person! Is there an obvious way?

I've noticed that the unit boots up extremely quickly most of the time, but occasionally, if it has been a few days, it has to go through the full boot sequence which shows the Android splash screen. (Interestingly, I get several more pops from the amp in that case.) It going into sleep mode would certainly make sense to explain the speed. I can't tell you whether it knows to power off fully to preserve battery though. But as with most things Android, this is probably something that can be configured, given enough effort... I'd be interested to know too, as I obviously don't want a dead battery either!
[/QUOTE
By measuring the draw. Either use a clamp meter on the negative battery cable or disconnect the ground battery cable and put a multi meter across the two An acceptable draw would be about 50 to 80 Ma (0.5 to 0.8, but these cars seem to be notorious for drawing over 100Ma (0.1A) resulting in reduced power if not used regularly
I’m actually bought the same unit from Nevegator and attempting to install. As you say, the seller is absolutely useless in helping and I’m genuinely scratching my head!

I’m struggling to figure out which cables from the main harness connect to what, feels like some are to be left unconnected aswell?

I have a 2015 facelift hatchback with regular android head unit (no navigation). Were you able to find a wiring diagrams for this model? Would greatly appreciate any help I can get at the moment
I'm not sure I've seen a unit that had Android but not navigation. All I know is that I was advised to avoid the Honda connect units as they weren't compatible with the aftermarket stereos. Do you have a picture of the rear of the unit? Some of the cables will remain unconnected, that's normal (end of the day, the aftermarket one won't be able to replicate everything that the factory one can).
By measuring the draw. Either use a clamp meter on the negative battery cable or disconnect the ground battery cable and put a multi meter across the two An acceptable draw would be about 50 to 80 Ma (0.5 to 0.8, but these cars seem to be notorious for drawing over 100Ma (0.1A) resulting in reduced power if not used regularly
I'd rather not have to disconnect anything but if I run into any issues then I'll take a look. But I haven't had any issues with this after about 2 months. The longest time without using the car was probably about a week.
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